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Old 11-25-2014, 06:47 PM #31
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98 1998 Toyota 4Runner U Joint - Driveshaft & Axle - GMB, Front Shaft All Joints, Rear Shaft Rear Joint - PartsGeek
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Old 11-25-2014, 06:50 PM #32
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Is this a joke.
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Old 11-25-2014, 07:01 PM #33
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Here's another interesting thread I just found. Can't take out U-joint

I don't see a replacement inner ball PN anywhere

Here is the most useful thread from the other discussion, just to tie this all together...

Double Cardan joint - Tacoma World Forums

And another good one, same question: '85 Front CV centering ball question. - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

Still no PN for a replacement center ball...
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http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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Old 11-25-2014, 07:10 PM #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelsonmd View Post
Here's another interesting thread I just found. Can't take out U-joint

I don't see a replacement inner ball PN anywhere

Here is the most useful thread from the other discussion, just to tie this all together...

Double Cardan joint - Tacoma World Forums

And another good one, same question: '85 Front CV centering ball question. - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

Still no PN for a replacement center ball...
I was able to find this from one of the forums for the ball.

Northern Drivetrain, LLC: Neapco 7-0409

p# Neapco 7-0409
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1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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Old 11-25-2014, 10:22 PM #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayRolla View Post
Yes I think some have done this, but others have said the double cardan is good for higher lift applications and angles on the shaft during flexing.
I'm not suggesting that you do away with a DC driveshaft. I'm suggesting converting it to a common DC driveshaft that uses Spicer 1310 ujoints that can be found in ANY auto parts store in the country. Complete rebuild kits which include the centering ball and spring are also easy to find.

I'm going to have to bust out my driveline books and find a CV flange that will bolt to the tcase output flange. There are all kinds of junkyard donor possibilities.
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Old 11-26-2014, 12:13 AM #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayRolla View Post
I was able to find this from one of the forums for the ball.

Northern Drivetrain, LLC: Neapco 7-0409

p# Neapco 7-0409
Nice, though in one of those other posts someone said that Neapco bearings weren't very good. That's just one person's opinion, so take it with a grain of salt. If it's well greased, I can't imagine it'd fail that quickly.
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http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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Old 11-26-2014, 08:50 AM #37
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I went through this recently too. I ended up getting a new driveshaft built with a 1310 style dc joint and the correct Neapco adapter flanges. I posted a bunch of info in a thread called "Rear driveshaft help". If you search for that thread you may find some helpful info.
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Old 11-26-2014, 09:09 AM #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csp View Post
I'm not suggesting that you do away with a DC driveshaft. I'm suggesting converting it to a common DC driveshaft that uses Spicer 1310 ujoints that can be found in ANY auto parts store in the country. Complete rebuild kits which include the centering ball and spring are also easy to find.

I'm going to have to bust out my driveline books and find a CV flange that will bolt to the tcase output flange. There are all kinds of junkyard donor possibilities.
When I went through this recently, I was told that the round tube portion of the toy driveshaft is a metric size and wall thickness, so a common 1310 dc will not fit properly. Dc's have a "slip" fit, where they slip inside the tube, then get welded in place. It could probably be modded to work, but the shaft may have major balance issues afterwards.
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Old 11-26-2014, 09:42 AM #39
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I came across a place in Illinois called Rockford Drive Line. They might have something since they do a lot of work on Toyota's.
I post a few links in this thread. You can click on them and find all the parts you need. I even posted a link were you can buy replacement parts for your Toyota shafts. Last I checked they had all the parts you need to rebuild them, and they might even have u-joints.
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Old 11-26-2014, 11:36 AM #40
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Originally Posted by MStudt View Post
I post a few links in this thread. You can click on them and find all the parts you need. I even posted a link were you can buy replacement parts for your Toyota shafts. Last I checked they had all the parts you need to rebuild them, and they might even have u-joints.
These are the guys that High Line says Neapco buys from. He says its not high quality. But I wouldnt know. Im still looking for low mileage local part. Seems to be best option right now.
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1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
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http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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Old 11-26-2014, 11:43 AM #41
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These are the guys that High Line says Neapco buys from. He says its not high quality. But I wouldnt know. Im still looking for low mileage local part. Seems to be best option right now.
Nothing is high quality compared to High Angle. They're the best, nothing else compares.
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Old 11-26-2014, 12:20 PM #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy in Pa View Post
When I went through this recently, I was told that the round tube portion of the toy driveshaft is a metric size and wall thickness, so a common 1310 dc will not fit properly. Dc's have a "slip" fit, where they slip inside the tube, then get welded in place. It could probably be modded to work, but the shaft may have major balance issues afterwards.
EVERY yoke end on a driveshaft tube is a tight slip fit in the tube and welded in place, not just DCs or Toyotas. Tube can be turned to open up the ID or ends can be turned to change the OD to fit inside another size of tube. There are also 1310 yoke ends (both DC and single cardan) sized for metric tube.

It wouldn't have to be based on the Toy driveshaft either. As long as you have the right ends to attach to the tcase and rear axle it doesn't matter what's between the ends.

I worked in a shop that built driveshafts for everything from shaft driven motorcycles to mine dump trucks when I was in college, so I'm pretty familiar with the workings of them. We didn't balance driveshafts either. We eliminated runout and balancing wasn't necessary. Balancing is quick and cheap for assembly line purposes, but it's not the only way to eliminate vibrations.
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Old 11-26-2014, 04:13 PM #43
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Quote:
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EVERY yoke end on a driveshaft tube is a tight slip fit in the tube and welded in place, not just DCs or Toyotas. Tube can be turned to open up the ID or ends can be turned to change the OD to fit inside another size of tube. There are also 1310 yoke ends (both DC and single cardan) sized for metric tube.

It wouldn't have to be based on the Toy driveshaft either. As long as you have the right ends to attach to the tcase and rear axle it doesn't matter what's between the ends.

I worked in a shop that built driveshafts for everything from shaft driven motorcycles to mine dump trucks when I was in college, so I'm pretty familiar with the workings of them. We didn't balance driveshafts either. We eliminated runout and balancing wasn't necessary. Balancing is quick and cheap for assembly line purposes, but it's not the only way to eliminate vibrations.
Agreed... with all of it. I have built/shortened/lengthened a few in my garage with shop tools. Anything is possible with the right tools. My only point was if the intention is to simply put a 1310 dc on a toyota driveshaft (like what many Jeeps run), it is not as easy as it sounds. I asked about machining the yoke and/or the tube to match, and the driveline shop didn't like that idea because of the questionable material thickness on the toy shaft. Also, it was cheaper for me to get a whole new driveshaft with the toy-to-1310 flanges on both ends.
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Old 11-26-2014, 04:44 PM #44
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Wonder if Tom Woods can just custom make one for you. I thought their prices were ok considering the quality.

Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist
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Old 11-26-2014, 08:32 PM #45
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Wonder if Tom Woods can just custom make one for you. I thought their prices were ok considering the quality.

Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist
They can, it will be $450 with the correct Toy flange adapters, and you'll be able to bolt it right in. I had a driveline shop called Quigley 4x4 build me one. They are local to where I live so I could pick it up when done. They will also ship though. Let me know if interested, and I can get you in touch with the right person at Quigley.
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