11-25-2014, 06:47 PM
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#31
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I pick things up and put them down
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11-25-2014, 06:50 PM
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#32
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Elite Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my92t4r
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Is this a joke.
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1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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11-25-2014, 07:01 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Boston MA
Age: 40
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Join Date: Aug 2010
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Here's another interesting thread I just found. Can't take out U-joint
I don't see a replacement inner ball PN anywhere
Here is the most useful thread from the other discussion, just to tie this all together...
Double Cardan joint - Tacoma World Forums
And another good one, same question: '85 Front CV centering ball question. - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
Still no PN for a replacement center ball...
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2000 SR5 3.4L V6 Automatic 4x4, e-locker, 175k Miles, Rust
Imp. Jade Mica with Oak Leather Interior, Field Monitor Unit - B&M Tranny Cooler - SG2 - New (to me) rear axle assembly - Goodyear Duratrac 265/75-16 - 1.8" Ironman Front Lift, OME 906/Procomp 9000 Shocks
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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11-25-2014, 07:10 PM
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#34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelsonmd
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I was able to find this from one of the forums for the ball.
Northern Drivetrain, LLC: Neapco 7-0409
p# Neapco 7-0409
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1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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11-25-2014, 10:22 PM
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#35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayRolla
Yes I think some have done this, but others have said the double cardan is good for higher lift applications and angles on the shaft during flexing.
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I'm not suggesting that you do away with a DC driveshaft. I'm suggesting converting it to a common DC driveshaft that uses Spicer 1310 ujoints that can be found in ANY auto parts store in the country. Complete rebuild kits which include the centering ball and spring are also easy to find.
I'm going to have to bust out my driveline books and find a CV flange that will bolt to the tcase output flange. There are all kinds of junkyard donor possibilities.
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11-26-2014, 12:13 AM
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#36
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Join Date: Aug 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayRolla
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Nice, though in one of those other posts someone said that Neapco bearings weren't very good. That's just one person's opinion, so take it with a grain of salt. If it's well greased, I can't imagine it'd fail that quickly.
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2000 SR5 3.4L V6 Automatic 4x4, e-locker, 175k Miles, Rust
Imp. Jade Mica with Oak Leather Interior, Field Monitor Unit - B&M Tranny Cooler - SG2 - New (to me) rear axle assembly - Goodyear Duratrac 265/75-16 - 1.8" Ironman Front Lift, OME 906/Procomp 9000 Shocks
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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11-26-2014, 08:50 AM
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#37
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Chester County, Pa
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I went through this recently too. I ended up getting a new driveshaft built with a 1310 style dc joint and the correct Neapco adapter flanges. I posted a bunch of info in a thread called "Rear driveshaft help". If you search for that thread you may find some helpful info.
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11-26-2014, 09:09 AM
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#38
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Location: Chester County, Pa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csp
I'm not suggesting that you do away with a DC driveshaft. I'm suggesting converting it to a common DC driveshaft that uses Spicer 1310 ujoints that can be found in ANY auto parts store in the country. Complete rebuild kits which include the centering ball and spring are also easy to find.
I'm going to have to bust out my driveline books and find a CV flange that will bolt to the tcase output flange. There are all kinds of junkyard donor possibilities.
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When I went through this recently, I was told that the round tube portion of the toy driveshaft is a metric size and wall thickness, so a common 1310 dc will not fit properly. Dc's have a "slip" fit, where they slip inside the tube, then get welded in place. It could probably be modded to work, but the shaft may have major balance issues afterwards.
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11-26-2014, 09:42 AM
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#39
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official vendor
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Eugene, OR
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Real Name: Mike
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official vendor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MStudt
I came across a place in Illinois called Rockford Drive Line. They might have something since they do a lot of work on Toyota's.
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I post a few links in this thread. You can click on them and find all the parts you need. I even posted a link were you can buy replacement parts for your Toyota shafts. Last I checked they had all the parts you need to rebuild them, and they might even have u-joints.
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Last edited by MStudt; 11-26-2014 at 09:45 AM.
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11-26-2014, 11:36 AM
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#40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MStudt
I post a few links in this thread. You can click on them and find all the parts you need. I even posted a link were you can buy replacement parts for your Toyota shafts. Last I checked they had all the parts you need to rebuild them, and they might even have u-joints.
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These are the guys that High Line says Neapco buys from. He says its not high quality. But I wouldnt know. Im still looking for low mileage local part. Seems to be best option right now.
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1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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11-26-2014, 11:43 AM
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#41
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official vendor
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Join Date: Aug 2013
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Join Date: Aug 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayRolla
These are the guys that High Line says Neapco buys from. He says its not high quality. But I wouldnt know. Im still looking for low mileage local part. Seems to be best option right now.
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Nothing is high quality compared to High Angle. They're the best, nothing else compares.
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11-26-2014, 12:20 PM
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#42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy in Pa
When I went through this recently, I was told that the round tube portion of the toy driveshaft is a metric size and wall thickness, so a common 1310 dc will not fit properly. Dc's have a "slip" fit, where they slip inside the tube, then get welded in place. It could probably be modded to work, but the shaft may have major balance issues afterwards.
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EVERY yoke end on a driveshaft tube is a tight slip fit in the tube and welded in place, not just DCs or Toyotas. Tube can be turned to open up the ID or ends can be turned to change the OD to fit inside another size of tube. There are also 1310 yoke ends (both DC and single cardan) sized for metric tube.
It wouldn't have to be based on the Toy driveshaft either. As long as you have the right ends to attach to the tcase and rear axle it doesn't matter what's between the ends.
I worked in a shop that built driveshafts for everything from shaft driven motorcycles to mine dump trucks when I was in college, so I'm pretty familiar with the workings of them. We didn't balance driveshafts either. We eliminated runout and balancing wasn't necessary. Balancing is quick and cheap for assembly line purposes, but it's not the only way to eliminate vibrations.
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11-26-2014, 04:13 PM
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#43
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Chester County, Pa
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Join Date: Apr 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csp
EVERY yoke end on a driveshaft tube is a tight slip fit in the tube and welded in place, not just DCs or Toyotas. Tube can be turned to open up the ID or ends can be turned to change the OD to fit inside another size of tube. There are also 1310 yoke ends (both DC and single cardan) sized for metric tube.
It wouldn't have to be based on the Toy driveshaft either. As long as you have the right ends to attach to the tcase and rear axle it doesn't matter what's between the ends.
I worked in a shop that built driveshafts for everything from shaft driven motorcycles to mine dump trucks when I was in college, so I'm pretty familiar with the workings of them. We didn't balance driveshafts either. We eliminated runout and balancing wasn't necessary. Balancing is quick and cheap for assembly line purposes, but it's not the only way to eliminate vibrations.
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Agreed... with all of it. I have built/shortened/lengthened a few in my garage with shop tools. Anything is possible with the right tools. My only point was if the intention is to simply put a 1310 dc on a toyota driveshaft (like what many Jeeps run), it is not as easy as it sounds. I asked about machining the yoke and/or the tube to match, and the driveline shop didn't like that idea because of the questionable material thickness on the toy shaft. Also, it was cheaper for me to get a whole new driveshaft with the toy-to-1310 flanges on both ends.
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11-26-2014, 08:32 PM
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#45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian4t
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They can, it will be $450 with the correct Toy flange adapters, and you'll be able to bolt it right in. I had a driveline shop called Quigley 4x4 build me one. They are local to where I live so I could pick it up when done. They will also ship though. Let me know if interested, and I can get you in touch with the right person at Quigley.
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