02-11-2017, 01:39 AM
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#16
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: CO
Posts: 6,023
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Location: CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skiyota76
I need some info on lubricant for my TC they now make a rubbing sound and I can feel it inside with every flex.
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https://www.google.com/search?q=supe...UXhBeYQgTYImwQ
I believe this is what most recvommend.
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1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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02-11-2017, 02:10 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Imperial County, CA
Posts: 2,353
Real Name: Jeff
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Imperial County, CA
Posts: 2,353
Real Name: Jeff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayRolla
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I've heard good things about that too. I like the tri flow because it is small enough to carry around in my glove box.
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97 SR5 4runner: 2" OME Lift, rear E-Locker, 231mm Tundra Brakes, 203K, B&M 70264 Tranny Cooler, Duratracs
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02-11-2017, 02:33 AM
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#18
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 120
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skiyota76
I need some info on lubricant for my TC they now make a rubbing sound and I can feel it inside with every flex.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
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I grease my upper ball joints quarterly or before/after harsh conditions, i.e. Water/sand. I have typically used lithium based because I wanted to keep them well lubed while playing in the water/sand. However; synthetic grease (Mobil 1) is hugely more robust than regular(so I have heard).
This is what I switched to. For my grease zerks and ball joints.
Hope this helps, cheers !
I see u are in CO !
I'll be Idaho this week boarding and then next weekend in Colorado. Beautiful country up there ! Probably hit up keystone while I'm there.
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St0neRunner Build: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...0nerunner.html
Deck plate mod, high flow filter, pulstar plugs, 3" lift w toytec coil overs, diff drop, Highflow cat, mangan flow muffler, built in cargo box, air compressor, custom built bumper, modified roof rack, Remote control gobee lights, hood scoop led light, bluetooth, gps, cb, obdII reader, new leather seat with seat heaters installed. Many hrs of maintenance and suspension part replacement
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02-11-2017, 09:28 AM
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#19
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBurt
I've heard good things about that too. I like the tri flow because it is small enough to carry around in my glove box.
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Its what icon told me to use.
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1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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04-20-2017, 02:26 PM
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#21
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 466
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Member
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Location: Vancouver, Canada
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At what lift height are new UCA's required? I'm trying to decide (for the future) to rebuild my UCA's or wait until I need aftermarket arms for a lift
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04-20-2017, 02:42 PM
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#22
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: The Great PNW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stever1000
At what lift height are new UCA's required?
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The main goal is to correct alignment. You can also use certain(SPC) arms to gain firewall clearance with bigger tires.
Plenty of guys are running 3" lifts with stock arms, but caster isn't ideal.
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04-20-2017, 02:58 PM
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#23
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: CO
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Elite Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stever1000
At what lift height are new UCA's required? I'm trying to decide (for the future) to rebuild my UCA's or wait until I need aftermarket arms for a lift
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2" lift and under you can get over 2* on stock arms. Over that lift amount you can live with stock arms but to get ideal caster you need aftermarkets.
SPC are nice like stated above because they are full adjustable, strong, give more travel and have enclosed ball joint that has a grease zerk. They make noises.
__________________
1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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04-24-2017, 12:48 AM
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#24
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Vancouver, Canada
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Vancouver, Canada
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Thanks for the info!
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04-24-2017, 07:04 AM
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#25
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Nowhere
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Real Name: Josh
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Nobody even gave the built right ucas a nod....damn. They are good as any of the uniballs and they are cheaper.
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1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - Icon CDCV 2.5's, SCS Matte Black SR8 wheels, Audio overhaul (Alpine CDE-HD149BT, Kicker CS65s up front and CS5s in back
My build thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ack-pearl.html
2015 Toyota 4Runner Trail Premium traded for 2015 Ford F-250 Super Duty
Quote:
Originally Posted by StreetCreeper
And you also tell him that right before Absalom smokes them on the trail—he skins them first and fashions their dirty lifeless hides into camp-hats to keep warm at nite...
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10-21-2020, 11:22 PM
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#26
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 2
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Junior Member
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Location: Columbia SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SL28
When I build out my t4r (soon), the front end is going to include TC UCA's. The uniball construction is the way to go for lifted and extended travel. Total Chaos UCA's cost a bit more than others, but for good reason.
I had Light Racing UCAs on my Tacoma along with extended travel Icon COs.
The ball joints failed and did so WAY too early in my opinion. The idea behind the LR construction seems good, but I had bad luck with them holding up.
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a handful of year late but whatever. i take it i can run the tc's without a extended travel kit?
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10-28-2020, 10:06 AM
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#27
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Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Posts: 34
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
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MCM Fab Uniball UCA's are another great option even cheaper than Camburg ($675) on SRQ's website. I think all these UCA's are essentially the same construction/strength - just my 2 cents. Camburg brake line tabs do look nice though. Uniball all the way for weekend warrior build though!
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10-28-2020, 11:17 AM
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#28
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Making my way to the sticks
Posts: 442
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Making my way to the sticks
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I agree that for what most of us weekend warriors do any uniball UCA will suffice. They are designed strong. There is a part of me that thinks you'll pay more for a bigger name companies product over gain in quality...but that me. I did a lot of suspension work to my rig in the last year. Here is what I can tell you...
Uni ball UCA definately a good move to make. Alignment, flex, no rub issues. What's not to like. When my uniball wear out I'd swap to SS ones.
The uniball does collect a lot of dirt especially with grease all over it. So wash it off...and regrease the ball. It rains a bunch here in winter which also causes the uniball to get dirty and grease to wash away quicker...so regrease more frequently. I now stock plenty of red and tacky at home because of this. Do I regret going to uniball UCA because of this extra maintenance? Not one bit!
With that said I'm rocking Built Right UCAs
Side note if using heim joint sway bar links like Mike puts out, you'll be in a similar boat. Tri flow dry lube is your friend. It rains the lube gets washed out so relube. You wash it the lube gets washed out so relube. I carry a small bottle of tri flow in the rig and a big bottle next to all my red and tacky.
Basic clean and lube for these types of things are done in minutes with a cold beer in hand. Not some thing that should be considered a reason to not make these upgrades since the performance gains out weigh my time spent lubricating joints.
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99 Limited: 4wd conversion, OME 883/891, Built Right UCAs, Armored and winch up front, 285's with 4.88s and dual locked.
Last edited by G_Raw; 10-28-2020 at 11:20 AM.
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