Hey y'all, just recently I put brand new 31 BFG A/T on my 4runner and removed the running boards which helped give it a more aggressive look, now I'm wondering what I should do next, I've debated getting new,brighter headlights and maybe even adding extra ones to my front end with an auxiliary switch, I have Also debated getting rear taillight cages, or maybe getting a 2 inch lift, basically i am asking for any opinions on improvements that would help advance the look or function of my 4runner.
Thanks for your help
-Eric

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You told yourself what you wanted. what do you want to do with it is the real question. Are you out in the dark a lot? get fog lights.
Rear taillight cages are based on opinion, I don't like them, I don't think they'll actually protect anything.
2 inch lift, would be bad timing because you JUST bought new tires and should of upgraded if you got a lift.
Don't get brighter headlights unless they're HID. I bought some ultra bright headlights and they didn't do a damn thing. Go buy some plastic dip and have fun. Bumpers, emblems, grill.
Or you can take your mod money, save it, then take your future mod money, save it, then buy sliders. or a front bumper. All based on what you want it to do.

1) trans cooler. 2) Fluids. 3) tundra brake upgrade.

I revoke what I said before and move my vote here. Redline 75w90 for the diffs. Spendy but you won't have to change them for a long time as long as you aren't stuck under water.

Maintenance before all else

A trans cooler is a great option, although not really needed. Now, if you're going to be towing something, then I would go this route. I know this is a much debated conversation, and others will have different opinions.

I agree with the maintenance side of things; fuel filter, air filter, plugs, wires, and so on. Check your LBJ's and TRE's to see how they look.

I say maintenance first. If you plan on lifting you'll have to do some suspension work anyways. Don't skimp on the HIDs.. either do it right or not at all. Putting HIDs in halogen housings is not cool.

Didn't like the white out on a white truck? I think that would have popped. Does your spare match now? Maintenance and fix your antennae.

If you are over 140K miles I would do lower ball joints, radiator, trans cooler, and a OEM timing belt kit if not done yet.

Then go lift it.

FUEL FILTER, if for nothing else than the satisfaction of seeing how much crap comes out of it. You MUST use a flare nut wrench on the 14mm nut. Just buy one if needed. It has to do with how the nut snugs down and seals the flared end of the fuel line to the filter. Trust me on this.


GREASE THE DRIVESHAFT. Do it again in a week, then again, then again, then again, etc. Its just grease, you wont go broke. I think this is the most overlooked maintenance item.
Drive/Prop Shaft Greasing Guide. I go by the first diagram, with Moly for the slip yokes, 2 and 7. Endless discussions and opinions about moly vs non moly.
Some argue pumping the slip yokes full (until you see them starting to extend) can result in hydrolock and a blown seal. Zerks are there so you can pump in new grease and purge the old grease. With properly maintained seals in good condition you're supposed to pump until you see new grease coming out the other end.
Mobil 1 synthetic grease nlgi no 2 | IH8MUD Forum, post #6 "a bit of a dissertation."
Mine were neglected, but eventually this is what I've achieved. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/698052-post17.html
Lubricating propeller shafts. Yes, this is a 4th gen thread but still applicable.
If it has not been done in a long time the grease gets used up and the remaining lithium (soap) dries and forms a hard blockage around the inside of the seal, which hinders the outflow of the old grease. I speculate this hard blockage may be the cause of blown seals. The idea is to get that blockage softened up and the grease moving again. I spent many hours over many months doing this. I sourced some Grade 1 grease at Grainger's because it is less viscous than the specified Grade 2 and thus flows easier. I was not able to find grade 0. I used a blow dryer to heat up the area, assuming the heat would soften the dried blockage. I assumed a heat gun would overheat the joint and cook the seal... I assumed, i.e. I do not know, so I chose the less aggressive approach. This blockage was only an issue with my slip yokes.
1) Speedbleeders Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder. Makes brake flush a pleasure 2) Fluids 3) Grease 4) Trans cooler or new radiator 5) TBU (tundra/sequoia brake upgrade) 5) Lower front ball joints 6) Timing belt, mileage dependent 7) Steering rack and end link bushings 8) A Brazilian, i.e. Clay bar and synthetic wax. Ohhhh, so smooth.

Anybody have an opinion on hid lights? I also wondered about gettin. A train horn, immature probably but I think it would be fun to have if used responsibly.

What part of Texas are you? If you are going to do HIDs then I would look into doing a retrofit of some projectors in to your headlights that way you are not blinding oncoming traffic. Also Halogen headlights do not disperse HID light very well.

They're more fun if used irresponsibly.

Like others have said do the maintenance first. No, it's not as fun as a lift but you got to get the foundation solid before you start building.

I'm in north texas around Dallas, and where would a compressor go if I did install some type of horn? Anybody have experience with these?