Does anyone have any guidance on what to get/avoid when looking for an auto body shop to apply the rust protection to the underside of the car?

I live in the city and don't have a garage or front yard to do it myself, so want to get this done at an auto shop.

However I don't want to get something done that will be troublesome down the line, so I am curious if anyone has any guidance on what to go for or what to avoid when shopping for a rust protection service from an auto body shop.

Thanks!

From the research I have done, I think KBS 3-step system is the way to go - not POR-15 which is based off older science. The primary advantage of KBS vs POR in my opinion is KBS does not disintegrate when exposed to UV light (as little as the frame gets, but still). Others who work in auto body may know more, just my 2 cents.

From my experience, POR 15 is replaced by KBS Seal. I agree KBS Seal is better and slightly cheaper. What I don't agree with in this thread is Eastwood internal frame coatings inside your frame. Especially if the frame is scaling and rusting inside. Will not get the desired effect in the salt and rust belt.

With different environments it maybe great. I just know I repaired and frame arch then went back in to finish the repair a year later and the Eastwood internal frame coated steel was starting to rust.

The only way to super clean the inside of your frame is to remove the bottom and replace it. Since this is not feasible for a lot of forum members which is understandable I would do the following:

Internal frame

1.) Power wash and clean all the dirt and debris you possible can get out of the frame you get out.

2.) Being scaling will be taking place. you need penetrating oils etc on the steel. FF will cover steel but will not penetrate the scale. (FF is good for a Top coat on a rusted frame especially if scaling is occurring)

3.) Use penetrating oils or fluids to coat the inside of your frame. A million choices here. Examples: Used Transmission fluid, WD-40, PB Blaster. Anything that penetrates and will seal the oxygen off the steel. So rusting will slow down and stop.

4.) Topcoat with FF or anything similar that will creep around inside the frame. Cosomoline, Woolswax whatever works for you.

External frame and underside:

1.) Power wash and clean all the dirt and debris off.

2.) Descale everything you can. Wire wheel etc. Get all the scale off and loose rust.

3.) This phase I am still experimenting on. Use a good Rust inhibitor on the steel to seal it off. Do not just primer and paint. it will just rust through that in the rust belt. I don't care what kind of paint its not going to seal it good enough.

Right now I am experimenting with Corroseal as my rust inhibitor layer. As its a metal etcher and sealer as one. I will not know how it holds up for a year or 2.

Even KBS seal will rust through if the metal wasn't peeped properly. They all will.. That part of the key is getting the metal clean and prepped to seal properly which is extremely hard to do upside down and underneath a car..;-)

4.) The topcoat can be whatever works for you paint, FF film wool-wax. Comeliness.

Note: (FF will not stay in fender wheels or areas that see a lot of pressure washing style actions) So either touch up every year or find something that better for that area. :-)

This is super helpful thank you!

I will call around to the auto shops and see what they offer for rust protection and try to stick to one of these.

Just wondering, six months after writing this, what is your current recommendation for internal and external frame rust treatment? I am in Michigan, definite rust best, and want to preserve what's left of my frame!

Externally if you want the frame to look nice I'd descale then degrease really well and paint with Eastwood frame rust paint black. Then top coat in your choice of black matt paint.

Inside, clean out all loose debris. Pour in used motor oil or transmission fluid which will protect the bottom. Then spray in fluid film with the wand you got with the Eastwood frame paint (soak in lacquer thinner and blow it out with your compressor to clean out paint so it doesnt plug it up).

When the paint on the outside has hardened up after a month in the heat spray fluid film on that too.

^This. Also, don't overlook the underbody, especially those small panel gaps and the rocker panels.

Externally, I am currently using corroseal as the metal sealer then painting with a paint. I am getting ready to switch to cosmoile to see how it does on the undercarriage.


Well I am thinking of switching to cosmoline. In things like frames rockers etc you can use Fluild film. However, FF will wash off the undercarriage. Being cosmoline is extremely hard to wash off. Thus I think will do better on metal exposes water like undercarriage.

[QUOTE=jsindorf;3635736]Just wondering, six months after writing this, what is your current recommendation for internal and external frame rust treatment? I am in Michigan, definite rust best, and want to preserve what's left of my frame![/QUOTE
I have patched many Toyota and other frames and will tell you that when I cut them open they are half full of a rust dirt mixture so coating an already rusted frame inside with a paint or epoxy will not help at that point. If you have a decent frame that is not full of mud, sand, dirt, rust then seal it with epoxy, but if it is rusty clean it out if you can, paint the outside then coat it inside and out with Fluid Film, New Hampshire Oil, WD40 or some other oily coating that will spread and penetrate.

This. To access the rockers you can remove the screws from the door sill plates and stick the straw from a WD40 can in there. I use the thin WD40 over viscous FF since it could clog up the sunroof drains and create a far worse issue.

I used this same method except I used a skewer pressure washer attachment that has a rotating nozzle that shoots water backwards so you run it through the frame to get all debris and surface rust out and then used the internal frame coating

That sounds like a nifty attachment that I don't need but want. Got any links or pictures?

I'm not sure if this is exactly what he's talking about but it sounds similar. I used it to wash out my frame really well before I coated it with internal frame coating. Amazon.com: Sewer Jetter Kit 1/4" NPT x 50' Hose & 4.5 Orifice Button Nose Nozzle 4000 PSI: Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com: Sooprinse High Pressure Washer Sewer Jetter Kit, Button Nozzle and Rotating Sewer Jetting Nozzle,Daily Tool for Pressure Washer Sewer Washer Kit, 50FT Drain Cleaning Hose, 4000 PSI: Garden & Outdoor

It's all in the prep. No regular shop wants to touch it because it involves hours of sanding to bare metal before you can get any hope of the coating actually lasting. There is one shop I inquired to in NJ that will prep the living hell out of the frame, but he charges a pretty penny. Having tried sanding the crap off myself, I actually think his prices are realistic.