06-30-2014, 03:02 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 12
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California Bay Area Labor Help and/or Advice - Lift, etc. Maintenance
I got the bug and bit off more than I can chew. I'm relatively handy around the house, but have never worked on any vehicles. I've owned my 2001 4runner, 160k miles, since 2012 and recently decided to give it a lift - not sure that was a good decision. Reading the forums, I've committed to many additional upgrades without thinking about labor costs. Now I'm thinking about doing this all myself since I'm lacking the funds to complete the build, but need the forums guidance to see if it's advisable to do this myself and what the procedure should be. I've committed to the following:
1. Front and Rear OME coils and shocks
2. Upper Control Arms with UBJ
3. Lower Ball Joints
4. Inner + Outer Tie Rods
5. 1" Body Lift
6. Panhard bar
7. Tundra Brake Swap
Can someone advise the order in which I should make these repairs? How long it will take someone with no experience. And finally, if it's even advisable for me to attack this as a first time project.
Also open to compensating hobbyists who have experience working on the above who can help at an affordable rate. If possible, I'd like to help and learn as well.
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06-30-2014, 03:39 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Walnut Creek, CA
Posts: 159
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Walnut Creek, CA
Posts: 159
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Ball joints first. Definitely. Have a ball joint failure and you've just opened 3 more cans of worms and emptied your pocket book quite quick. I could lend a hand if you like. Upper ball joints are the hardest, but only because the lowers simply bolt on, uppers are pressed in. I did all 4 of mine quite easily with a decent ball joint press from Barbour freight.
Need a hand? I'm just in walnut creek.
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1997 radiant red 4x4 5spd 3rz, e-lock. 406000km (250000 miles).
Home made roof rack and side ladder. 2-50" Cree light bars, 60" High-lift jack, 5' shovel, handheld gps with separate tracking device, gazillion different tools, dual mounted batteries with cs144 upgrade and the "big 3" ,2 fire extinguishers, MAPP gas. All rolling on 285-75-16" kenda Kevlar mt's
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06-30-2014, 04:23 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: San Francisco
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Real Name: Chris
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
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Loaded question. If it were me, I'd split it up front and back. I'd do my bj's, steering, brakes, and struts at the same time. This would probably take me a good weekend working 5-8 hours Saturday and Sunday. Someone with more experience/proper tools could probably knock it out quicker.
I'd do the rear the following weekend. Panhard, springs, and shocks.
Body lift would be last for me. I'd probably give it another week and then tackle the bl.
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SOLD '99 Limited K82 | CBI Two-tone Hybrid front & CBI Hybrid Rear | Diff Lock | Satoshi | Taco Whip | Tundra 231mm | ICON 2.5" Coilovers | OME 906 & Tundra Bilstein 5100's | TruCool 4454 | Safari Snorkel
'16 Trail Premium KDSS | Super White | Bilstein 6100 | RCI Front Skid Plate | 255/75/17 Cooper S/T Maxx
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06-30-2014, 04:46 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Oakland, CA
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Junior Member
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Thanks for the guidance. You think this is something I can handle with little to no experience working on cars?
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06-30-2014, 04:48 PM
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#5
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Join Date: Mar 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConstantFix
Ball joints first. Definitely. Have a ball joint failure and you've just opened 3 more cans of worms and emptied your pocket book quite quick. I could lend a hand if you like. Upper ball joints are the hardest, but only because the lowers simply bolt on, uppers are pressed in. I did all 4 of mine quite easily with a decent ball joint press from Barbour freight.
Need a hand? I'm just in walnut creek.
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I appreciate the advice regarding ball joints and ball joint presser.
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06-30-2014, 04:48 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cstraface
Loaded question. If it were me, I'd split it up front and back. I'd do my bj's, steering, brakes, and struts at the same time. This would probably take me a good weekend working 5-8 hours Saturday and Sunday. Someone with more experience/proper tools could probably knock it out quicker.
I'd do the rear the following weekend. Panhard, springs, and shocks.
Body lift would be last for me. I'd probably give it another week and then tackle the bl.
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Thanks! This helps a lot in terms of planning and how to split up the work.
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06-30-2014, 05:19 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Age: 37
Posts: 4,989
Real Name: Robert
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I would wait on the body lift for a seperate weekend or do it a weekend before the lift. Not that it's harder to do, but not necessary right away. Even better though would to do the body lift first, so you have easier access during the lift install.
All of these things will take about 1 whole weekend. I've done complete lifts (front/rear, diff drop and panhard) in 3 hours or so, but that was on a clean CA car, so no rust to battle and it was my 7 or 8 lift I've put on. I'd do the front one day since the coilovers take about an hour, UCA's (never done them) 2-3 hours, tie rods & LBJ 2 hours and brakes are 2 hours with bleeding. That will take pretty much all day. The rear will only take about 2-3 hours so do the front first.
You can always leave the brakes for another weekend as well since it won't effect the alignment if you're pressed for time. It doesn't take long, but bleeding the brakes can be a pain.
I'd be willing to help out with some of it, but my weekends are pretty busy this summer. Will you have the front coilovers all set up beforehand?
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06-30-2014, 05:22 PM
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#8
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: San Francisco
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCRunner12
Will you have the front coilovers all set up beforehand?
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That's a good point. Would definitely tack on some time if not. I can help as well. July is probably my best month for open weekends.
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SOLD '99 Limited K82 | CBI Two-tone Hybrid front & CBI Hybrid Rear | Diff Lock | Satoshi | Taco Whip | Tundra 231mm | ICON 2.5" Coilovers | OME 906 & Tundra Bilstein 5100's | TruCool 4454 | Safari Snorkel
'16 Trail Premium KDSS | Super White | Bilstein 6100 | RCI Front Skid Plate | 255/75/17 Cooper S/T Maxx
Instagram: @cstraface
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06-30-2014, 05:34 PM
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#9
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I would do the body lift first because of the access to the rear shocks you will gain! It's hard to reach up in there and it will slow the lift down a bit in the rear. Otherwise the orders suggested sound great.
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06-30-2014, 06:02 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Oakland, CA
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Junior Member
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I appreciate all the help and advice. It sounds like this is something I'll be able to handle on my own, albeit it might take 2-3 times as long as a shop or an experienced hobbyist.
I'll read the tutorials over and over and will try to tackle this. If I get stuck I'll reach out to the several kind members who have offered to help. Always wanted to learn how to do some basic stuff on cars so I guess this is my opportunity.
Thanks!
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06-30-2014, 06:52 PM
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#11
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
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Real Name: Alex
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anonymouschris
I appreciate all the help and advice. It sounds like this is something I'll be able to handle on my own, albeit it might take 2-3 times as long as a shop or an experienced hobbyist.
I'll read the tutorials over and over and will try to tackle this. If I get stuck I'll reach out to the several kind members who have offered to help. Always wanted to learn how to do some basic stuff on cars so I guess this is my opportunity.
Thanks!
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Nothing you have listed is very difficult to do, just a bit intimidating. Luckily hundreds of us have taken this plunge in the past and a lot of us have documented the experience rather well.
I see you're using the OME Coils/Springs... You should run through the rest of your list and let us know exactly which parts you're using. Should help us identify any red flags, or problems you may face.
Good luck!
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2006 Lexus GX 470 Sport- RR Diff Lock, Metal Tech Sliders, RCI Aluminum Skids, Front Runner Slimline II Rack, SCS F5s, 255/80R17 ST Maxx , OME BP-51s, Dirt King UCAs, Metal Tech RR Lower Links
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