Hey All,

This will serve as my "Build Journal" for my new (to me) 1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5.

Background:
My name is Brian and I'm 26 at the moment. My best friend and traveling buddy is my Dog, Mr. Mojo Risin'; I'm married and I have a 4 year old little girl (who LOVES the outdoors like her Daddy) and another little one on the way (fingers crossed for a boy!). I recently received a Doctorate from Elon University and previously received a B.A. in History from Virginia Tech.

I am from the Mountains of South Western Virginia, near West Virginia; the land of Mountains, broken old roads/trails, and RIVERS! I bought this 4runner to drive on a daily basis, and to serve as an expedition/overland rig. I just sold my 1998 Jeep Cherokee, which was a built very nicely. (Armored, Air Locked, Geared, 3-Linked, etc...). The jeep had gotten a bit crazy, and I needed something a bit more practical. I had taken it in a direction that didn't really serve the purposes I wanted it for, so that was that. I didn't need a Rock Crawler; my interests were really more in taking long trips off of the beaten path, Whitewater Kayaking (and getting to remote places to do so) and camping. I needed something that I can do the daily deeds in and still drive myself to the middle of nowhere and back.

I also have a 2003 Subaru Forester that has a 1" Lift, 28" Yokohama Geolander All-Terrains, OEM all-Weather package with a factory Rear Limited Slip Diff, and a lot of fresh OEM parts. The Forester does nice; I can take it out on the deep sands of Cape Hatteras and up a lot of old, really crappy roads. One would be surprised at the places I can get this thing actually. It sits a total of 2" higher than a stock Forester, which means it actually has more real ground clearance than most of today's "SUV's". All that said, it still isn't heavy duty enough, and ultimately I need it to be reserved for the wife. As I said, I had my built up Jeep; we also had a 1994 Toyota LandCruiser that I sold earlier this year. The LandCruiser was a capable rig, obviously, but it was TERRIBLE on gas(13mpg average/mixed driving) and I drive too much. I put 45,000 miles on it in the two years that I had it. I had put a 2.5" TJM lift on it, rebuilt the axles/knuckles, all new bearings, etc... and after two years of duty, most of those parts were getting fairly worn, so I sold it in search of something more suitable. Another side note about the FZJ80, I could just NEVER get comfortable in it. As big as they are, they are really small inside. Rear knee room is terrible, and the steering wheel sits a bit off to the side of the driver and this just made it to where I could never get really comfortable in it. The seats sucked too!

Now, I have gotten myself this 4Runner. In general, I LOVE it. It is solid like my LandCruiser, but MUCH lighter and more agile. The interior is much more comfortable; better seats, more legroom, more comfortable driving position, etc.. I got it with 150,000 miles from the second owner. It had the Timing Belt and Waterpump changed on it by a Dealer at 86,000 miles, and it had fresh Outer Rod Ends, and a Fresh set of Goodyear All-Terrain 31" tires. It's a clean truck, just a few dings, and a few little pieces to address inside. The Frame is solid, and all in all, it was in good shape. I got it for a GREAT price knowing it needed a few things. The second I got the truck home, I ripped off a Chrome Brush Guard, Chrome Side Steps, and Chrome Door trim.... I hate that stuff... I REALLY hate the door edge trim... I just don't understand why people like it????

First, I ordered a new OEM Toyota Steering Rack which also came with new Inner Tie Rod Ends. Next were new OEM Toyota Lower Ball Joints, Energy Suspension Graphite Impregnated Steering rack Bushings, KYB Monomax Heavy Duty Shocks/Struts for the Front and Rear, Daystar Coil 1.5" Rear coil spacers, and Daystar 1" front Coil Spacers. I had to use T4R and IH8MUD a great deal during the install of the Steering rack. What should have been a simple job, turned into a big pain due to rusty power steering lines, and a seized rag joint on the steering rack. A few "URGENT" posts later, and a few days of cussing later, I have it all finished up I ultimately had to order some new power steering lines which added to the time considerably. Toyota wanted $401.00 (pricing from CamelBack) for JUST the pressure line! I really like using OEM parts or aftermarket parts that are upgrades as opposed to average part store garbage. I had heard that AutoZone/Napa Power steering lines were generally aluminum, which I didn't like. Luckily, I found some Gates power steering lines for the nice price of around $200 for both the Pressure and the Return line. When buying the return line, you also have to by the Return line Tube; this is the fitting that goes into the actual rack and pinion. Toyota wanted something like $50-60 bucks for it, but I lucked up and found one on EBay for around $20 shipped.(OEM Toyota Return tube.) Threw all this on, got an alignment, and she is good to go until the next round!!!

My plans for the truck are ultimately 2.5-3" of lift, 33" Goodyear Duratracs, Selectable lockers front and rear, OEM 4.30 gears, and tons of armor. I want something I can drive to the Yukon and back without fail, and anywhere in between. Before I get to the fun stuff, I will be preparing the rig for heavy duty use; Transmission cooler, Power Steering cooler, Tundra brakes, Heavy Duty Alternator, etc... Luckily, I have a stock pile of old Jeep parts, and old Subaru parts (I recently sold my 2004 Subaru STi) to sell and start funding some of these endeavors. It will be a bit of a process but I'm lucky in the sense that I have taken enough paths with different vehicles to have narrowed down what I really want with this 4Runner!
SOoo. This is the start of my Built Journal!

VEHICLE (as purchased on May 31, 2014):
1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5
3.4 V6
Automatic
Four-Wheel-Drive
150,300
Black Exterior
Oak Cloth Interior
Power Sunroof
Factory Equipped Alarm
Power Windows
Power Locks
Keyless Entry
Kenwood DDX-816, Double DIN, Bluetooth, Touch screen Head Unit
New OEM Toyota Outer Tie Rod Ends
OEM Toyota Timing Belt and Waterpump at 86,176 miles.
New Goodyear Tracker 2 All Terrain 265/70/16
Viper Alarm
Goofy Chrome Brush Guard
Goofy Chrome Side Steps
Goofy Chrome Door Edge Trim.

Mods and Maintenance to date:
Ripped off the Chrome Brush Guard, Chrome Side steps and door trim. (May 31, 2014, 150,415mi.)
OEM Toyota Rack and Pinion, NEW. (July 17, 2014, 151,463mi.)

-Part Number: TOYOTA 44250-35042

OEM Toyota Inner Tie Rods, NEW. (July 17, 2014, 151,463mi.)

-Part Number: *Included with New Rack and Pinion*
-Part Number: TOYOTA 45503-39075, INDIVIDUAL

OEM Toyota Power Steering Return Tube, NEW. (July 17, 2014, 151,463mi.)

-Part Number: TOYOTA 44416-04020

OEM Toyota Lower Ball Joints, NEW. (July 17, 2014; 151,463)

-Part Number: TOYOTA 43330-39585 - RIGHT
-Part Number: TOYOTA 43340-39465 - LEFT

Gates Power Steering Return Line, NEW. (July 17, 2014, 151,463mi.)

-Part Number: GATES 365871

Gates Power Steering Pressure Line, NEW. (July 17, 2014, 151,463mi.)

-Part Number: GATES 365875

Energy Suspension Polyurethane Steering Rack Bushings, NEW. (July 17, 2014, 151,463mi.)

-Part Number: Energy Suspension 8.10103G - GRAPHITE IMPREGNATED/BLACK

KYB Monomax Heavy Duty Shocks/Struts, Front and Rear, NEW. (July 17, 2014, 151,463mi.)

-Part Number: KYB 564002 - FRONT
-Part Number: KYB 565002 - REAR

Daystar 1" Front Coil Spacers, NEW. (July 17, 2014, 151,463mi.)

-Part Number: Daystar KT09105BK

Daystar 1.5" Rear Coil Spacers, NEW. (July 17, 2014, 151,463mi.)

-Part Number: Daystar KT09107BK

Alignment. (July 17, 2014, 151,470mi.)

Tires Rotated. (July 17, 2014, 151,474mi.)

Re-Installed Center Caps. (July 22, 2014, 151,574)

Greased Front and Rear Driveshaft Slip Joints and Rear Driveshaft Double Cardan Joint. (July 22, 2014, 151,574) All Four Tires Rebalanced. (July 23, 2014, 151,609)

New Aisin Fan Clutch. (July 24 2014, 151,632)

Part Number: AISIN FCT-013

TRD Off Road Quarter Decals. (August 1, 2014, 152,137)

Homemade by yours truly

Oil Change. (August 5, 2014, 152,471)

6quarts Valvoline Synthetic Blend High Mileage 10w40

Toyota Genuine Parts 90915-YZZD1 Oil Filter

To Do List In No Specific Order:
1. Needs a new Fan Clutch, The fan is roaring at all engine speeds, and all temperatures.

-Option 1. Ordering: Aisin FTC-013, Amazon has them for $96.00, NEW
-Option 2. Electric Fan conversion. I'm on the fence about this. If I did, I would use a Taurus fan most likely.
-This is definitely happening ASAP

2. STEREO

-I'm a bit old school in this... I LOVE a nice stereo. I would say I am an Audiophile.
-I have LOTS of nice Alpine Amps laying around that I will use. I also have some nice old PPI, Hand built amps that were in my STI, but they would be a bit overkill so I will save those for my 1969 Firebird. I also have a nice older Kenwood Double Din that has a built in 24 bit digital sound processor that is amazing for sound quality laying around.
-The plan is
-Alpine 50x4
-Alpine 500x1
-Kenwood DDX896 (has a built in 24 Bit DSP that makes music AMAZINGLY clear.)
-Alpine Type-S Components. (I know they are lower end, but sound is all about what tones sound good to your ears, and for the price, I am very fond of the way Type S components sound.) I will either use those, or this set of Dayton Audio Components I built.. They are Amazing, but like I said, sound is to the users ear, and I honestly really like the Type S 6.5 components.
-A nice 12" Subwoofer. I have a JL Audio 12" W6 laying around, but I think it would be a bit overkill, so the jury is still out on what I will get for the 4runner. I will build a nice fiberglass corner enclosure to sit on the wheel well. I don't want to lose hardly ANY space since this will be a traveling RIG.

3. Weathertech Floor Liners and Cargo liner.

-These things are a no brainer, I have had them in my Jeep, my Forester, my STi, my dad has them in his Tacoma... they are AWESOME. I had a set of Husky Liners in my Toyota LandCruiser, and personally, I feel that WeatherTech liners are just made better. Plus, on 4runner applications, the WeatherTech rear liner is one piece that goes over the hump, whereas Husky's are just two piece little floor mats...
-I have nice OEM carpet mats for the whole truck, but they aren't up to the heavy use I will put them through, plus, I would like to keep them nice.

4. I need a new Rear Cargo area carpet set.

-the previous owner had a nasty spill of something very toxic back there... there is a red stain in the corner, and the actual carpet, under my carpet OEM mat, is peeling away from the backing. It will literally suck right off of the liner with a little vacuum. Whatever he spilt was something that just ate the fabric up.
-I also need to do some metal cleaning under it, the spill started eating paint, and although it isn't rusting, it has eaten the paint off, so I want to catch it before it becomes a problem.

5. Steering column Fix

-Write up here: Diagnose and Fix Steering Play/Rattle - TTORA Forum
-This is also happening ASAP

6. Acquire New Bolts and Tap to fix the mounting points for my skid plates

-This is also happening ASAP
-I have enough bolts to get the two skid plates bolted up, but a lot of the bolts are tricky to start. They all feel pretty gnarly. I would imagine the p/o had Jim-Bob's quik lube doing oil changes and just using impacts to stick those things in every time. grrr...
-I also have a bolt hole for one of the Power Steering line holders that is gnarly and needs cleaned up. It just so happens that it is the same size. Luckily, it is the one on the driver's side frame rail, and the lines are made in a way that it doesn't really matter if it is temporarily not fastened.

7. Remove this TERRIBLE Viper Alarm that makes my vehicle randomly sound off

-I have the factory RS3000 unit under my seat, I will return this to functional use.

8. New OEM Keyless Fob

-I am using the OEM keyless right now, but the key ring holder is broke off, and I'd like to have 2

9. Oil Change.

-I will be using OEM Toyota Genuine Parts 90915-YZZD1 Oil Filter and New OEM Crush Washer along with a nice Synthetic Oil. I have contemplated a synthetic blend, but I believe I will give full synthetic a shot. I'm just worried about switching over at the mileage, if I even am switching; I'm not sure what the p/o ran in the truck.

10. Transmission Fluid Service change.

-I will just drain the pan, and throw that much back in, and I will repeat the process in 1,000 miles or so. This way I slowly wean it over to new fluid. It has been my experience that to do a full drain (draining ALL the fluid out, including what is in the torque converter) is bad for transmissions. The sudden shock of all the fresh fluid, which has a lot of detergents in it seems to break stuff loose and cause problems. If you just drain the pan while the vehicle is not running, a little over half of the fluid will still stay up in the torque converter so you are effectively only changing half of it.

11. Transmission Filter.

-This is a no brainer, just a pain in the ass to drop the pan.... I will use an OEM filter.

12. Air Filter

-Again, no brainer. I will use an OEM Toyota Filter.

13. Differential and Transfer Case fluids.

-I'm personally a fan of Valvoline Gear Oil products, and for good reason. When I get to this, I will be more specific as to why.

14. Tundra Brake Conversion

-I'm thinking I will do the 199mm version. I have the Split 3-spoke wheels, and it is my understanding that I would need wheel spacers to run the 231mm version. I'm not against wheel spacers at all, especially small ones. Luckily, my OEM brakes are fresh, and aren't warped, so this isn't a pressing issue. When I get to it I will have to drill and tap a new hole in my driver's side spindle; whoever did the brakes last time snapped a bolt off that holds the line/abs sensor bracket...
- I will do Stainless Brake lines then too!
-I will also inspect my rear drums, if they could use some shoes, I'll go on and do shoes and hardware while I'm at it.

15. Spark Plugs and Wires

¬-I'm not sure what I will use here. I can get NGK Iridium plugs and NGK wires on Amazon for a good deal, but I need to do some research.
-on my Land Cruiser I used OEM TOYOTA plugs and wires and was happy with them, but all they were was a set of Champion plugs and expensive wires... so yea they did their job, but I feel like I could get an improvement and save some money at the same time.

16. I need a new Antenna

¬-I'm not really a fan of power antennas... Especially on off-road rigs... if you forget to put it down... it gets ripped off...
-I will get a Tacoma antenna and ditch the power unit. I want something flexible.

17. I need to find a new Rear cup holder

-because kids!!! mine is broken.

OK, well, 17 is enough for now! I am very particular when it comes to maintenance. I will spend money to save money later.

I will keep this thread updated regularly, and edit my first post accordingly. Here are a few pictures of the rig as she sits now!, I will post some pictures of how she sits now and in the next few days, I will post up pictures from my work up over the past few weeks!!!

I look forward to chatting with you all and following all of the great builds on here!! To everyone on T4R and IH8MUD that has helped me with Tech over the past few weeks, THANK YOU!

Best,
Brian

That is quite the build journal. Welcome, and take the time to familiarize yourself with all the FAQs and whatnot.

Common problems are leaking inner axle seals (I recommend changing the breather that sits atop the axle at the same time), leaking coolant into the ATF when the ATF exchanger fails in the OEM radiator and eats the clutch plates for breakfast, and the lower ball joints do fail, more frequently on 4wds. Use the search engine for more info.

Forgo dropping the tranny pan for the filter. Just drain and fill, roughly 4qts at a time. If this wasn't your DD, I'd consider an electric fan but pass on it otherwise.

199mm calipers are fine. The NGK blue plug wires and double tipped electrode plugs are the way to go. Check the gap before installing.

Of all the people I have met from VT, you are only the 5th person out of 500 that have stayed in the state, or it seems that way. My cousin went to the Elon School of Law and has a nice practice going outside Hendersonville, NC FWIW.

I've thoroughly digested the FAQ.. haha. I just graduated from Elon Law. I really love Virginia, I grew up abd moved back to the area in between Virginia Tech and West Virginia. About 30 minutes from VT.

Im thinking I'll just replace the fan clutch for now. The only reason I really want an electric would be for water crossing and low speed trail riding. Monday I'll probably just order that Aisin Unit. I replaced the lower ball joints as a precaution, the ones on the truck didn't have any play, but I've read the horror stories. Once I had the old ones off they did feel a bit notchy, so im glad I did.

Im very thorough with maintenance; "anal" for lack of a better word.

Thanks for the welcome!

Nice build so far. The part numbers are helpful too. Why does that ride height and tire size combo look so perfect to me? lol.

I looked into electric fans but I feel that you lose reliability by ditching the clutch. There are too many things to go wrong and I don't like to put cooling systems at risk for an extra ~8 horsepower.

Oh, and what do you think of the KYB Monomax's? I heard from others that the ride is crazy harsh but they did not have 4Runner's.

Thanks man! I'm very happy with the height and tire size right now too! ultimately, I want 2.5-3" and 285's, but these tires were so fresh, I didn't want to go on and buy a lift and have it looking funky!! That's why I just bought the stock height shocks and a set of spacers. 1" front and 1.5" rear worked out perfect to compensate for the slight sag, and to get it up slightly higher.

I actually LOVE the way it is riding on the KYB Monomax... KYB makes great stuff! they are the OEM manufacturer for Subaru stuff; they even make the OEM suspension for STi's.... They are a bit stiff, but not awful stiff; they just feel heavy duty I would compare the ride quality to a TRD OEM suspension. I am happy with them. best of all, Amazon has them for a GREAT price right now. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them to others, especially if they really use their rig.

Ill keep my thread updated on them as the break in and how they feel over time...

Im thinking for now, I am going to do just a new fan clutch. I'll order that Aisin one tomorrow. In the future, I may do a Taurus Electrical fan though. They are great fans (obviously OEM quality). Right now, I have other time consuming projects to deal with; when I do it, I want to do it cleanly and it will be time consuming..haha I really LOVE this install, especially how he wired the switch.
One position for "Off", one position for "thermo temp sensor operated at the first speed", and on position for "full on, on the second, higher speed". He did it all using an OEM Toyota rear fan switch to boot!!! super slick!
Taurus Electric Fan mod on the Gen 3 4Runner - YotaTech Forums

By Blue NGK wires, Do you mean these?
Amazon.com: NGK (4412) TE66 Wire Set: Automotive
I was thinking these plugs
Amazon.com: 6 New NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs BKR5EIX-11 # 5464: Automotive

Or do the double tips have a really good reputation working on the 3.4?

There have been a few posts on electric fans. I'm a BIG fan of electric fans when needed. I used a Taurus fan in my 65 Mustang restomod (4.6L DOHC supercharged - 550HP). But these trucks have an excellent cooling system from the factory. I've never had my temp rise above 205 even on the hottest day (95+, high humidity) and crawling over rock steps on trails (normal temp is 200). The electric fan sounds like a good idea, but these trucks just don't need it (unlike some other vehicles that really need it for low-speed use). I'd put the money elsewhere and just replace the factory clutch fan. If the factory fan won't keep it cool, you have other cooling system problems.

As you think about increasing your lift, I'd replace the spacers with new springs. You can get Tundra springs (usually with Bilstein struts) from a wrecking yard for around $100 (I bought a set for $80) that will give you 2" lift. You can get some LC springs for about the same price, that will give you 3-9"! lift (depending on which you get - see the writeup in the 'FAQ' section). Then just get some LC rear shocks and you are good to go - usually less than $400 with 4 new shocks.

Double tip plugs are what came from factory and are also what is required for the type of ignition system that the 5VZ has. You will notice a white sticker on the timing belt cover telling you to use double electrode plugs.

The spacers were just a temporary thing to use with the new shocks. I was ready to buy a new lift when i bought the shocks and stuff, but the 31 inch tires were new, and i didnt want to be riding around with it super tall and on little tires, so i figured i would go with this until the tires wear out. Im aware of the tundra springs and LC springs, however i figure im going to go with a coilover setup up front and some OME springs in the rear. I ultimately plan on doing some towing and hauling some heavy loads, so OME rears will be up my alley. i am am still researching coilovers, but Kings look like thy would be high on my list; i like the toytec setup as well. Adjustability and selectability are two things that i really like, so we will see how that goes.

Subscribed! Welcome to the forum.

Thank you, Sir!!

On a side note, does T4R allow titles to be updated? I just noticed I had a typo in my title. I edited the post and noticed it hasn't updated yet; however I do know that some forums take some time to do so.

I am pretty sure you need to get a moderator to do that.

Haven't done much reading into the pink milk stuff, but I have seen a few examples of people putting in Hayden Trans coolers. I do believe I would prefer to go a different route and get a Plate-Type cooler for the transmission; they are much more efficient.

My Radiator seems fine, but I learned on my Land Cruiser that Plastic Radiators can go fast and unexpectedly. I see a lot of people replacing their radiators on their 4Runners with new plastic cored radiators?? why is this? I will ABSOLUTELY be looking for an all metal unit. When the OEM unit went in my Land Cruiser, I purchased an all metal 3 row for it. Looked great, and I never had to worry about seam leakage from plastic cores. I believe the brand was CSF... Im going to go look through my records and find out.

CSF 2517 Radiator | Auto Parts Warehouse

This is the Radiator I put in my Land Cruiser, in the description it says it was a plastic tank unit, but I really wasn't. I searched high and low for it. I do believe I'm going to look for the same for the 4Runner

EDIT* it doesn't look like CSF makes an all metal one for 3rd Gens, I found some all metal CSF 3 rows for 4Runners, but apparently they are for different model years.

For Fun, here are some of my old rides

1994 Toyota Land Cruiser,
Front Axle is rebuilt, using OEM Toyota Felts and Seals/Gaskets.
New OEM Toyota Koyo Wheel Bearings
New TJM 50mm Progressive Coil Springs (Net ~3" of Lift)
New TJM Heavy Duty Shocks
New TJM 3* Rubber Caster Correction
NEW TJM Steering Stabilizer
New OEM Toyota Rubber Window Gaskets (x4)
New OEM Toyota Rear Heat switch
New OEM Toyota Center Differential Lock switch
New OEM Toyota Denso Spark Plugs
New OEM Toyota Denso Plug Wires
New OEM Toyota Distributor Cap
New OEM Toyota Distributor Rotor
NEW OLD STOCK, OEM Toyota Carpet Set for the Land Cruiser. This is a BRAND NEW OEM Carpet, Not Aftermarket (not installed)
Japanese Domestic Market Land Cruiser Second Row Reclining Hinges. This Allows the Second Row of Seats to Fully Recline!!!! SUPER RARE. The Third Row also has a recline feature
CSF All-Metal Radiator
Pioneer MP3 CD Player w/ Aux port
Alpine Type S 6.5" Front Component Speakers
Alpine Type S 4" Rear Two Way Coaxial Speakers
285/75/16 Goodyear Duratracs
Bumpers have been Repainted (front has a few scuffs now though)
Running boards and Mud flaps removed





My 1998 Jeep Cherokee...
4 door
4.0 liter inline 6
Aw4 Automatic
np231
Dana High Pinion 30 Front
Chrysler 8.25 Rear
Chilli Pepper Red (2010 factory respray)
258,000 Miles and going
Rustys 6.5" coil springs
Rusty's 4.5" leaf springs
Rusty's 1.5" Greasable Shackles
Rusty's shocks
Rustys Cut Out Fender Flares
Froehlich Suspension Solid Hex 3 Link Long Arm Front Links
Froehlich Suspension Crossmember
Froehlich Suspension Solid Hex Track Bar
HD Offroad Frame Stiffeners
HD Offroad Shackle Relocation Brackets
RuffStuff 1.25" Heims on Lower Front Links Frame Side
RuffStuff 7/8" Heims on Upper Link and Track Bar
Ballistic Fabrication 2.63" Poly Bushings Lower Front Links Axle Side
Nitro Chromoly 30 Spline Front Axles
Nitro 4.88 Gears Front and Rear
ARB Air Locker (Super 30)
ARB On Board Air Compressor
Trac-Lock Rear LSD
RCV Standard Dana 30 Axle Tube Seals
Advanced Adapters Slip Yoke Eliminator
OEM Jeep Double Cardon Rear Driveshaft
JKS Quick Disconnects
Iron Rock Offroad Bar Pin Eliminators Front and Rear
Iron Rock Offroad Heavy Duty Tie Rod
Iron Rock Offroad Stainless Steel Brake Lines
16x8 Jeep Rubicon MOAB Wheels, painted (and baked) gloss black
Spidertrax Offroad 1.5" Wheel Spacers Front & Rear
305/75/16 Firestone Destination M/T's (33x12.50)
New front calipers
New Front Rotors
New front pads
New Master Cylinder
New Rear Shoes
New Rear Brake Hardware
Repainted in 2010
Waterpump was replaced at some point in years gone by
Radiator has been replaced
Drive belts
Normal maintenance
Regular oil changes
Regular transmission service changes
Transmission
Newer Exhaust
Undercoating



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