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Old 08-10-2015, 04:04 PM #46
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Originally Posted by MTD View Post
might want to reread these last two paragraphs for grammar mistakes. They got kind of hard to follow.
I see them, with two junior techs to train. It's hard to type, look and listen without wanting to hit yourself with a blunt object when it's over 100 degrees
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Old 08-10-2015, 04:20 PM #47
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Originally Posted by Doc2012 View Post
Might want to re-read all this for mistakes.





There are plenty of people here that have used an aftermarket cat, have passed inspection, and have been fine for years, if this was the route they chose to go.

If you live in Cali, I would say to stary clear, simply because Cali does the Sniffer test, and while the light might not be on, the exhaust can still cause it to fail, from my understanding (I don't live in Cali, nor whould I ever want to).

A O2 "spacer" is going to move it out of the gasses? How? Hose gasses are still going to be surrounding the O2 sensor. those gasses are going to fill every inch of that tail pipe, so by moving the sensor "out of the stream", you're really just moving the sensor up. Not doing anything at all really.....
I see it first hand, majority of cali cars do not pass with aftermarket cats.So we use a dealer cat based on vin and all is good. We do use aftermarket cats on all types of vehicles. Yes, they do pass. We do the sniffer test here.

As you stated, it is a spacer moving it out of the stream enough for the 02 to fall into calibration peram's. Most of the time it is a weak or failing sensor by a small %, so it does work. Until the sensor completely fails.

And so the great debate continues on which is the best method to fix or work around the 02 sensor codes.
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Last edited by broken wrench; 08-10-2015 at 04:26 PM.
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Old 08-10-2015, 04:32 PM #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broken wrench View Post
I see them, with two junior techs to train. It's hard to type, look and listen without wanting to hit yourself with a blunt object when it's over 100 degrees
hahaha keep them in line lol
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Old 08-10-2015, 04:33 PM #49
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Originally Posted by Doc2012 View Post
Might want to re-read all this for mistakes.
Meh
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Old 08-10-2015, 07:29 PM #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc2012 View Post



A O2 "spacer" is going to move it out of the gasses? How? Hose gasses are still going to be surrounding the O2 sensor. those gasses are going to fill every inch of that tail pipe, so by moving the sensor "out of the stream", you're really just moving the sensor up. Not doing anything at all really.....

I've heard of this before. People typically use spark plug non-foulers that you can find in the Help! section of Autozone. Most 3rd gen 4Runners can't use this method because we have the bolt on oxygen sensor, not the screw on type.
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Old 08-11-2015, 10:01 AM #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTD View Post
Darn EE's and their RC circiut and time constant witchcraft!
So simple division is witchcraft you say? I think UW might want to take back your permission to use their logo as your avatar

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc2012 View Post
Might want to re-read all this for mistakes.





There are plenty of people here that have used an aftermarket cat, have passed inspection, and have been fine for years, if this was the route they chose to go.

If you live in Cali, I would say to stary clear, simply because Cali does the Sniffer test, and while the light might not be on, the exhaust can still cause it to fail, from my understanding (I don't live in Cali, nor whould I ever want to).

A O2 "spacer" is going to move it out of the gasses? How? Hose gasses are still going to be surrounding the O2 sensor. those gasses are going to fill every inch of that tail pipe, so by moving the sensor "out of the stream", you're really just moving the sensor up. Not doing anything at all really.....
You're right about the Cali test, though I think that the aftermarket CAT's are getting a bit better and may pass the sniffer test now. I believe that Walker CAT's are actually on the approved list. Others have said that in Cali they actually check the model/brand of CAT you installed and it has to be an officially approved one (i.e. that CAT company has donated to the campaign fund for some Cali rep...).

You're incorrect about the spacer doing nothing. The O2 sensor is designed to have the sensing element right in the middle of the exhaust flow, so if you take it out of the exhaust flow, then you are getting less gas blowing through/by the sensor, so less detection. There is a huge difference between flowing gas and stagnant gas (from a sensing standpoint). If it worked the same in stagnant gas, then believe me, they would not go through the trouble of making the sensor stick out into the middle of the ridiculously hot and corrosive exhaust gas.
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Old 08-11-2015, 10:21 AM #52
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FWIW, here's my experience.

A while ago, probably 3-4yrs, I had an exhaust related engine code on my Tacoma. I don't remember exactly which code. I followed the procedure in post 1 to modify my rear O2 sensor and the CEL went off and the code cleared.

A couple months ago I got a CEL with the code of P0137 - Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 2). I decided to buy a new Denso O2 sensor and the URD simulator (I gutted my CAT and welded a straight pipe through it a while ago). After switching the modified O2 sensor for a new one with URD's simulator, the CEL and engine code went away.

So does the modified O2 sensor work? Yes, but for how long.
Is a modified O2 sensor exactly the same as a URD simulator? Probably not.
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Old 08-11-2015, 10:27 AM #53
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So simple division is witchcraft you say? .
There's a little more to it than that.

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Old 08-11-2015, 10:30 AM #54
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So simple division is witchcraft you say? I think UW might want to take back your permission to use their logo as your avatar
JK
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Old 08-11-2015, 10:32 AM #55
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Originally Posted by jeremyc74 View Post
There's a little more to it than that.

Meh.
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Old 08-11-2015, 11:18 AM #56
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And that is why I quit math at Algebra 2. Math shouldn't have letters in it!!
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Old 08-11-2015, 12:04 PM #57
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There's a little more to it than that.
Not if you reduce it by limiting the time constant to what you actually want it to be (apparently about 1s in this case) and the voltage to the fixed supply oltage of the sensor. once you do that, the equation for time constant is only related to the ratio of R and C, so if you know what ratio you need, then it really is just as easy as simple division.

Always reduce the problem to the least complex solution.
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Old 08-11-2015, 08:18 PM #58
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Hey guys, I'm about to do this mod on my 02 taco. I need the help of some electrical gurus. I'm in Canada and radio shack is no more. I went to the local electrical store told the guy what I needed by cross referencing the radio shack part numbers the capacitor he gave me is TOPMAY 105j250v and the resistors are 1/2 watt 1m OHM 2%, the radio shack says 5%, Can you guys tell me if this will jive if all wired in properly? Thanks guys
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Old 08-11-2015, 10:32 PM #59
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Quote:
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Hey guys, I'm about to do this mod on my 02 taco. I need the help of some electrical gurus. I'm in Canada and radio shack is no more. I went to the local electrical store told the guy what I needed by cross referencing the radio shack part numbers the capacitor he gave me is TOPMAY 105j250v and the resistors are 1/2 watt 1m OHM 2%, the radio shack says 5%, Can you guys tell me if this will jive if all wired in properly? Thanks guys
The capacitor info you gave does not include the capacitance--so it might be right or not. The resistor is fine. 2%/5% is the tolerance and either is fine for this application, and 2% is better than 5%.
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Old 08-12-2015, 08:52 PM #60
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Thanks Dirk. I searched 105j it says that is the code for 1uf.
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