Quote:
Originally Posted by DanRC30
I think the hardest part will be removing the rusty screws/bolts to get the lines off. Is it ok to temporarily close the circuit off? Maybe put a single u-shaped hose at the top to close the loop off? I need the truck this weekend and I doubt I'll have the lines in time to change it all successfully... any ideas on a quick fix? Nobody uses the back seat heating anyway... lol!
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Yeah, I don't think it would hurt anything to do that. You can bypass it for as long as you'd like and it won't cost you a thing. You just have to switch one of the rubber hoses to a new spot. There was a similar post made earlier by someone wondering what was missing on their truck and it had been bypassed just like you're talking about.
Look at this thread and especially at the pic:
What am I missing?
Follow the one rubber hose that is still connected and you'll see that it's just resting over to the right side of the pic not connected to anything. The other line doesn't even have a hose connected to it anymore. The reason you don't see that hose is because the angle of the pic doesn't show, but it's pulled back to the t-junction where that other rubber hose is supposed to connect. You can see it in the second pic. That hose that is contorting back to the t-junction I mentioned is the one that is supposed to connect to the bare metal line seen in the first pic. That will effectively leave both of the lines from the rear heater unit hanging open under the hood, everything still in place, and the coolant system closed off and functional.