For those of you who have replaced your steering rack how difficult did you find it to be? Anything to watch out besides the lines. How long does it typically take? Did you have to remove the one long bolt on the drivers side or did you you just push it out some?

doing some reading now or it.

It can be a bit of a pooper. The bolt up on top is fun to get to. Use line wrenches to undo the pressure lines and be careful not to strip them. DO NOT turn the steering wheel round and round trying to center it when re-connecting. There's some sort of spring in there that has something to do with the airbag and it can break. Don't assume the new rack is centered. Turn the pinion and count to be sure before attaching to steering column. You can adjust the centering after the rack is installed without removing it if necessary, but it's kind of a pain.

Very easy to do imo. Be sure you center and lock the steering wheel and be sure the new rack is centered. I habe gotten racks that have been off center by more than 1 turn on the steering wheel. Its no fun having to go back and center th e rack after install but not hard on a 4runner. Flush the ps with new atf fluid after the new rack is in and get an alignment.
Yes dont turn the sterring wheek at all with the rack out. The air bag unit in the steering wheel called the clock spring will brack and cause a srs light and no air bags.

Search for threads about this. There are several recent ones that have answers to everything you are asking, along with pictures.

It's not super easy, especially if you have rust, but there is enough info out there already to get you though it just fine.

Save your old OEM inner tie rod ends if they feel solid. They dont usually go bad that quick, are super expensive oem and I have torn through 3 cheap auto store ones in less than a few months. If you wheel the aftermarkets like to fail quickly.

Best tip/trick I can give for this is to take your grinder and cut a slash in the center 19mm bolt. Save your knuckles from having to get 1/32 turns on a box end wrench from the top and turn it into a big flat-head screw.

Attached Images

 

I've done the steering rack replacement twice now. It really isn't as bad as everyone makes it out to be, just a lot of physical labor. One tip I will give you is for the steering shaft. The joint that connects the steering rack to the shaft, you have to remove the bottom bolt completely and then slide the joint up onto the steering shaft completely. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions mid-install. I know this swap pretty well now haha

Well, maybe in san diego with no rust it isn't a big deal, but freeze every single joint, and it is a much bigger more difficult job than you'd think.

My rack/shaft joint was frozen and took an hour or 2 just to disconnect. The pressure hoses I had to cut off. The bolts I had to loosen or take off for the hoses, rack, etc. all either broke off or came out hot from friction. That's the way it is when you have rust. Every bolt tries your patience and take a little more skin off your knuckles.

I am having issues with my 98 sr5 3.4.... Feels like loose front suspension or steering rack...how can I tell?

Just take the short answer... It's not your steering rack.

Search here for your symptoms, and if you can't find a good description of your symptoms, them post more details. We can't diagnose it for you from "feels like loose front suspension or steering rack"

Seriously search here though, I am sure that your symptoms are already described here and you can figure it out from existing threads.

geohil, that's ingenious. Never thought of that. But I knew Nelson would echo the same sentiment I have. If I tried that with any of my Runners, I'd be without a few screwdrivers or bits. There's a fair amount of torque on that bolt+years and any rust makes it redonculous. Thankfully, wife's '01 (which we had to put a new rack on) was born in TX and is quite clean underneath and my Canuck '98 came with a shiny new rack underneath. Cool idea, though -

I literally just pulled my rack off this morning. Second time I have done this. Some useful tips I can give.

-Remove the sway bar. I think you probably have to, to get the rack off. But even if not it will surely make the process much easier.
-The steering shaft joint that 4running daily is talking about can be a pain if it sticks due to rust. Rust is just the worst, as I think Nelson knows better than anyone. Soak that joint with penetrating oil ahead of time.
-Unbolt all 4 bolts/nuts holding the rack on and slide it out a few inches before attempting to remove the oil lines. This will make them much easier to access.
-Make sure you have an oil pan to catch the oil when you do remove the oil lines.
-Remove the whole thing (steering rack, inner and out tie rods) together as one unit.
-So in order, remove skid plate, sway bar, pound tie rods out of lower ball joints, remove all bolts holding rack, slide it out a few inches, remove oil lines, then last pull it apart at the steering shaft that has been soaking in penetrating oil.