99 Limited auto with diff lock? E-locker

Ok so I'm having some problems here. I bought a 99 T4R with rear E-locker. It did not work on test drive. But I thought I could just clean and go. I put on stands and got under it to find that the faceplate was busted on the locker. (Weathered) So I found another one from the next state over. (Whole diff w/o axle) I noticed the gear on the new locker was a little shorter but still 18 tooth and same diameter.

I took new one apart cleaned greased. The first time I put it in “after alignment “ it didn't work. I pulled off and tested with 12v and works fine. I re-mounted still didn't work again. This time I left it on diff, and tested it with 12 volts. With a (lawnmower battery) it would lock and unlock with a 12 volt direct connection. (I made sure not to spin too far as direct contact takes away the automatic stop ability of the actuator. I bolted it back to diff and connected to the factory harness, then had wife push button. When button in out position I get 8 volts spike for 3 to 5 sec then fades. With button in I get nothing. I have it on stands so I can put in 4WL and let all tires spin by hand or with running in gear. (I did gray wire mod) still no change.

So the moral of story is the motor works with a direct power source. But not connected to plug on the truck. Here are the differences from original locker and new locker. Original has longer gear. But this works tested with 12 volt batt: with direct power source lock/unlock. Original had one spring like the one shown in the guide to fix and clean. This one has 2 small springs. The commuter is longer on rotor, rotor teeth farther apart. Looks like a different year or something. bolt pattern and mechanics of the actuator are Identical though as is the plug to the wiring harness. So I don't think the differences are the cause of the issues I'm having with it.


Also I don’t understand this whole alignment thing. If you manually set the differential to the lock position, I would think the actuator would have to be set its natural position when locked. The install direction say to align up the vertical marks (on gear) 0.5 off center, to diff locker gear in case, this alignment takes it pretty far out of the end of a lock cycle. Which is where I would think it would have to be if diff in at end of lock cycle then actuator should be to. But I followed the direction. Any thoughts would be nice I have tried many more things than I have listed here. I know its getting power because it will jerk just for a second opone pushing but only once. I have had wife push button and test volts on Green/Red and Green wire number 2-pin and 3-pin I'm finding 8 volt I have Ohmed the motor and all looks good. I have Ohmed the plug and all looks good.

I have read every thread here and other Toyota forums. nothing like my problem and by the way all factory everything, except the locker. its factory but not original.



Also I don’t understand this whole alignment thing. If you manually set the differential to the lock position, I would think the actuator would have to be set its natural position when locked. When you align up the vertical marks 0.5 off center, it takes it pretty far out of the end of a rotation. Which is where I would think it would have to be if diff in at end of lock cycle then actuator should be to. But I followed the direction. Any thoughts would be nice I have tried many more things than I have listed here.

I have read ever thread here and other Toyota forum. nothing like my problem and by the way all factory everything, except the locker. its factory but not original.

Update

Update today I did some more testing, when I purchased the new actuator I got a new RR diff lock switch and new actuator Ecm. so I swapped them out just to see if it was the problem. It still didn't work. I also found the 12v wire coming into Ecm and it was throwing 12v. the I found the wires that pushed 12v to the actuator when lock button is bushed in to lock or let out to unlock. They both had 12v. So I don't see a problem there?

I don't know if the 8v I found at the actuator is from the fact I had to push test lead into the wire and didn't have a good piece of wire to make contact with. it is a sealed harness. so I had to sharpen test lead. and I know some times you connection is not the best that way and could show low volts. I am at a lose any idea's I'm to the point of over thinking this. and could use some simplification.

Ok I got it fix You might want to read this

Sorry I'm in a hurry so this might not come out right.

Ok so if anyone runs' into this problem where they have an actuator go bad or broken and can't be repaired. And you buy a new one and notice that the gear is smaller than the original one you had, and that it is a two springs in the unit not a single spring, and the teeth on the armature are closer ratio and the worm gear is finer as well.

This actuator will not work unless you swap some wires on the actuator. You will have to cut the green/red and green wire and attach the green/red to green and green to green/red this is done (before the 6 pin plug attached to the actuator itself (not the harness. This unit is set up with opposite controls and it confuses the E-locker Ecm.

Took me three day's of reading every forum on the subject and installing the actuator a about 30 times. on the 5th time the thought came to me "This seems backwards maybe I should swap the wires"". No this is a factory unit that makes no sense cutting factory wires is never good!!. well there you go not going with you gutt always kicks you right in the ass, because I installed it 25 more times before I said EFF IT I'm cutting them what the hell what could it hurt.

After cutting I manually put diff in lock position, plugged in actuator, pushed button to set timing, lined up marks vertical, bolted unit into place, here was the hard part "ask wife to spin the tires while I pushed button, the button was pushed in (locked position) from the timing. I push in to let it out (unlock position) and it unlocked for first time. I was like what just happened!! "AwwwYaa" I push in again and it locked. there you have it. Fix and not one response from any members here. :nono:

I hope this thread helps someone and saves them a hell of a lot of frustration. good luck with your T4R's. If needed when I have more time I will write a more detailed post of this experience.