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Old 10-26-2014, 07:21 PM #1
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LCA cams siezed, need help
I know the alignment cams freezing/seizing on these things is common. I am trying get mine out to replace them, but they aren't budging. I have the LCA bolts out but the cams/sleeves are seized to the bushing cups.

Advice?
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Old 10-26-2014, 07:38 PM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ARC View Post
I know the alignment cams freezing/seizing on these things is common. I am trying get mine out to replace them, but they aren't budging. I have the LCA bolts out but the cams/sleeves are seized to the bushing cups.

Advice?
A lot of people end of having to cut them out. You can also use a torch, but you need to be careful that way. By using the torch you only want to heat the metal sleeve. Once you hear it starting to sizzle you can use a punch to push it out.
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Old 10-26-2014, 07:49 PM #3
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Already tried the torch method to no avail. Unless someone points me in a different direction tonight I plan to cut it with a saws-all tomorrow. I think an air chisel would be better, but I don't have one.
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Old 10-26-2014, 07:57 PM #4
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Originally Posted by ARC View Post
Already tried the torch method to no avail. Unless someone points me in a different direction tonight I plan to cut it with a saws-all tomorrow. I think an air chisel would be better, but I don't have one.
An air chisel isn't going to get you anywhere. Keep in mind with the torch that you're not trying to melt the rubber from the outside. You need to heat the inside of the bushing so that it melts from the inside out. After about 90-120 seconds the bushings should slide out.
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Old 10-26-2014, 08:06 PM #5
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Why wouldn't an air chisel get me anywhere? I have cut lots of bolts with air chisel's before.

And I understand about the heat. After pulling the bolt out I put heat through center of the sleeve until it started popping and then smacked it would a 3lb sledge and it didn't budge. Then I heated it the same way and tried to use the factory jack to press them out. The jack just caused the mounts on the cross member to flex.
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Old 10-26-2014, 11:11 PM #6
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Anybody have any tricks for getting the drivers side bolt out passed the steering rack? I currently have the rack free from all of its mounts but still connected.
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Old 10-26-2014, 11:22 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ARC View Post
Anybody have any tricks for getting the drivers side bolt out passed the steering rack? I currently have the rack free from all of its mounts but still connected.
there is 1 bolt on the right as well as 1 nut.
there is 1 bolt under the tranny bell housing
there is 1 bolt on the left side.

then the other few nuts and bolts on the steering yoke and the tie rod ends.
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Old 10-26-2014, 11:58 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootmymime View Post
there is 1 bolt on the right as well as 1 nut.
there is 1 bolt under the tranny bell housing
there is 1 bolt on the left side.

then the other few nuts and bolts on the steering yoke and the tie rod ends.
Yes I understand how that. My question was is there a way to get the LCA bolt out without removing the rack? Was hoping to avoid disconnecting the steering. Took all the mounting bolts out of the rack as I am replacing the rack bushings as well.
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