01-12-2016, 04:09 PM
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#31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelj
What is the screenshot from/ what are you using to monitor the temps?
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I use a generic OBD2 bluetooth device I got from amazon. Coupled with the Torque Pro app for Android ($5 IIRC). I did customize the gauges as you can see, but I like that about Torque. Completely open to do whatever you want, to fit your philosophy of use. Best $35 I've spent on the 4Runner
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2000 4Runner SR5 4WD Build - 3.4, auto, factory E-locker, Sonoran Steel 1.2 lift...
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01-13-2016, 10:22 AM
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#32
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Memphis, TN
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Real Name: Michael
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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Real Name: Michael
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Quote:
Originally Posted by electroCrunch
I use a generic OBD2 bluetooth device I got from amazon. Coupled with the Torque Pro app for Android ($5 IIRC). I did customize the gauges as you can see, but I like that about Torque. Completely open to do whatever you want, to fit your philosophy of use. Best $35 I've spent on the 4Runner
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That is really cool. I need to look into this.
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'99 T4R SR5
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05-31-2016, 05:22 PM
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#33
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Join Date: Jul 2014
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2000 4Runner SR5 4WD Build - 3.4, auto, factory E-locker, Sonoran Steel 1.2 lift...
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05-31-2016, 05:30 PM
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#34
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Join Date: Jul 2014
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I purchased a trailer recently to haul my track car to/from events. Upon testing my lights, I learned my controller was broken. I purchased this Hopkins kit and everything now works. The install was relatively painless, but for sure involved. The Hopkins kit has the converter located on the passenger side, whereas OEM converter is located on the driver side. Just a little gotcha for anyone else who attempts the install. I did remove the OEM 4-pin connector, and as required installed/used the 4-pin that came with the Hopkins kit (another gotcha that'll take some time to replace and install).
As a side note, I'm really pleased with the SS 1.2 lift kit. Hardly any sag with the car/trailer loaded up and ready to rock.
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06-23-2016, 07:38 PM
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#35
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My 4Runner has been hesitating/sluggish starting around 3k rpms, especially under load. Today I did some maintenance/tune-up.
I think the problem is solved, now it runs smooth and strong all through the range. Will have to really load it up with my trailer to tell for sure.
**note to future self: work done @ 199,4xx miles.
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2000 4Runner SR5 4WD Build - 3.4, auto, factory E-locker, Sonoran Steel 1.2 lift...
Last edited by electroCrunch; 06-24-2016 at 12:40 AM.
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04-26-2017, 09:42 AM
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#36
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Join Date: Jul 2014
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I've been slacking on keeping this thread updated. Several months ago, I did the 13WL (231 mm) Tundra brake upgrade. I matched the calipers with Centric blank rotors, as well as Hawk LTS brake pads. As a side note, I'm not impressed with the Hawks. I think I'll go OEM Toyota Tundra pads once these pads wear down.
I also did some chassis cleaning and metal treatment while I was in there. Looking good!
My butt tells me it stops better, both for regular driving as well as for towing.
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2000 4Runner SR5 4WD Build - 3.4, auto, factory E-locker, Sonoran Steel 1.2 lift...
Last edited by electroCrunch; 04-26-2017 at 09:50 AM.
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05-01-2017, 05:27 PM
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#37
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This technically wasn't work ON the 4Runner, but with the 4Runner for sure. I have a full vehicle comprising of myself, spouse, 2 kids, and 2 dogs. So in questing for more square footage storage space, I bought an aluminum hitch-mounted rear carrier some time ago. While it worked fine, it was too low (straight 2x2 square tube coming out of the hitch and directly mounted to carrier rack). There was no way I could take it off-road-camping (baby stepping my way towards overlanding) and not have issues with it scraping and it getting in the way. So I made a thing from some raw 2x2 hitch tube. And added working LED turn/tail/brake lights while I was on the project.
Here it is in action from a couple of weekends ago, at the end of our weekend camping trip. Everything held strong, and we found a remote dispersed camping spot on the Mogollon Rim. Couldn't have made it there without the additional clearance.
I have a version 2 for the mount in mind. 4-6 inches more rack height and ideally a way to slide the rack back so I can clear the hatch with that additional height gained. And at the very least I think I need a duplicate plate on the back of the carrier, as mine is obstructed, and want to keep the man off my back.
Got some exploring in too up there
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2000 4Runner SR5 4WD Build - 3.4, auto, factory E-locker, Sonoran Steel 1.2 lift...
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05-09-2017, 02:50 PM
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#38
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 39
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Learned a ton from your thread! Just picked up a 2000 SR5 with 175k on it and plan to make many similar mods. Cheers!
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05-18-2017, 05:41 PM
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#39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hodolla
Learned a ton from your thread! Just picked up a 2000 SR5 with 175k on it and plan to make many similar mods. Cheers!
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Good luck with the journey. It's such a great platform to build off of.
If you plan to wheel it, my 2 cents is to address all the worn out suspension and rubber ASAP, after making sure the power/drive train maintenance is up to date. At that mileage, it's in need.
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05-18-2017, 05:48 PM
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#40
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Teaser pic of mystery box of various OEM and badass aftermarket parts waiting to go in the 4Runner...
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2000 4Runner SR5 4WD Build - 3.4, auto, factory E-locker, Sonoran Steel 1.2 lift...
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05-18-2017, 05:51 PM
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#41
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Join Date: Jul 2014
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2000 4Runner SR5 4WD Build - 3.4, auto, factory E-locker, Sonoran Steel 1.2 lift...
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05-18-2017, 05:53 PM
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#42
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: WA.
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Real Name: Ryder
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Man those are sharp! Nice choice.
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05-18-2017, 08:47 PM
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#43
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by electroCrunch
Good luck with the journey. It's such a great platform to build off of.
If you plan to wheel it, my 2 cents is to address all the worn out suspension and rubber ASAP, after making sure the power/drive train maintenance is up to date. At that mileage, it's in need.
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Thanks for the note. Not going to get too rowdy with it, mainly underdeveloped dirt mountain/desert roads. Addressing the suspension currently and will look into the drivetrain as well.
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06-04-2017, 12:50 PM
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#44
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I'm getting pretty bad driveshaft rub on my gas skid when really flexing the rear. Upon inspection I noticed my rear axle sat about 3/8" over to the drivers side. I loosened the panhard nuts and attempted to adjust. This is where I learned my SS adjustable panhard needed to be partially taken off the vehicle to be adjusted. My previous experience with adjustable linkage like that is the two ends have opposing threads so all you have to do is turn a middle section (in this case, a tube) to lengthen or shorten the piece. After getting the bar to where I wanted it to end up (on drivers side adjustment point) I pulled off passenger side end, screwed to length, but couldn't strong-arm the mount over. So I rigged up a ratchet strap to pull it over. Worked just great.
Am I the only one whose experienced this pain point with the SS bar? I could have just been dense and doing it wrong too
Adjusted and much closer. Still about 1/16 off towards driver-side from what I can measure.
I was hoping this would solve some tracking issues as well, but it hasn't. Will see if it helps with rub next time I can get out.
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06-04-2017, 01:07 PM
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#45
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