[electroCrunch]

2000 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4WD
3.4L, Auto, E-locker, 174k miles at time of purchase


Current photos as of June, 2023 @ ~237k miles:












Upgrades, Modifications, Etc.:


Suspension
Front: ~2.5” Lift (SS 1.2 Lift Kit)
-Toyota TRD Progressive Coil (Tundra)
-Bilstein 5100 shocks
-SS Poly Top Plate Retainers
-Extended and adjustable front sway bar end links (heim + poly bushings)
Rear: ~4" Lift (SS 1.2 lift kit)
-Land Cruiser 80 series coils
-Tokiko shocks
-SS Adjustable Trac/PanHard bar
-SS Extended bump stop adapters
-Daystar competition style bump stop
-Extended and adjustable rear sway bar end links (heim + poly bushings)


Wheels & Tires
-FN Wheels: Five Star 16x8 -25mm offset (BS 3.5”) (set of 5)
-BFG KO2 265/75R16 (spare KO2 265/75R16)
-Stubby ATV valve stems


Drivetrain, Chassis & Brakes
-1” Front differential drop spacer
-Durobump polyurethane front differential bushings
-Rear differential breather extension mod
Brakes:
-13WL Tundra Brake Upgrade (231mm)
-Tundra OEM pads (and shim kit)
-Centric blank rotors
-Front StopTech stainless steel braided brake line
-Rear extended braided stainless steel brake line
-E-brake bracket extension
Chassis:
-Energy Suspension polyurethane steering rack bushings


Engine & Performance
-AIRAID engine air intake
-4” deckplate mod (still trying to figure out if it was worth it, currently blocked off/closed)
-B&M 70274 transmission cooler (rated @ 29,200 BTUs (secondary cooler in series with stock cooler))
-Coolant/AntiFreeze: After 1/2 gallon Water Wetter…. +/-25% Toyota red coolant : +/- 75% distilled water ratio


Bumpers & Armor
-Addicted Offroad Plate Bumper
-CBI rear hybrid bumper with custom partial swing out tire carrier, and "rickashay" lower-tube mod
-Custom self-made adjustable Rotopax mount welded to CBI tire carrier, 3 gallon Rotopax fuel tank
-Lotus Rear Control Arm Mount Skids


Exterior
-Black OE grill w/ OEM silver Toyota emblem
-Trasharoo
Lighting:
-Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro Pods (White; Combo)
-Diode Dynamics SSC2 Pro Pods (Amber; Fog beam pattern; amber backlight feature wired to marker light circuit)
-VLED LMZ Platinum 4500lm LED H4 headlight bulbs
-LED Reverse lights
-Rage 360 LED front turn signals


Electrical
-6 Switch Auxbeam power relay unit (green backlight)
-Additional 0 awg ground (battery to body)


Interior
-Weathertech mats @ front, rear, and cargo area
-LED interior lighting: dome, cargo area, & map LED lighting upgrade
-LED DRL Pods at 6000K for additional cargo lighting (rated @ 3watts each)


Stereo
-Kenwood KDC-X896 head unit
-Alpine KTP-445U 45watt RMS x4 @ 4ohms
-Polk DB6501 6.5inch front speakers (all new 14ga soldered connections)
-Polk DXi525 5.25inch rear speakers

Fluids
-Mobil 1 5w-30 (engine)
-Redline 75W90 Synthetic (front & rear Differentials, and transfer case)
-Mobil synthetic bearing grease NLGI 2 (driveshaft)


Communication
-Midland – MXT275 MicroMobile GMRS Radio – 15 watts
-Firestick antenna


Currently on the parts shelf
-SPC UCAs
-SPC misalignment bolts
-OEM engine and transmission mounts
-Ironman 4x4 Monster Winch 12k



The backstory:

My family got bigger so I needed a bigger vehicle. Enter my 2000 4runner I purchased this past June. Not only did I need a bigger car, but I wanted something that was a good daily driver, as well as really capable off road. After a lot of research, the 3rd gen 4runner with the diff lock came out as a winner. I used to wheel when I was in my teens with my family, but nothing serious. I'd like to get out into the AZ wilderness to explore, camp, and wheel... plus have a reliable daily driver. I am throughly satisfied with my purchase.

Some purchase perks are carfax-verified arizona-only vehicle, great condition inside and out, garage kept, regular maintenance done. The previous owner also handed me belts, OEM oil filters, crush washers, and a repair manual. Yay!

I believe this is the first picture I took of it, while camping over the summer up by Jerome on Mingus Mountain.


The first mod was a new stereo. I transplanted my Kenwood KDC-X896 from my VW to the 4runner. While I was in there, figured I'd put a new speaker system in as well. Polk DB6501 up front, polk DXi525 in the rear with 2x .25" adapters/spacers. Powered by an Alpine KTP-445u compact amplifier. Highly recommend if you want a small, lightweight but powerful-enough amp. Front speakers got new 14ga pure-copper wiring, soldered every connection I could. Amp is powered directly from the battery. Sound is very good.


The suspension was in no condition to go off roading, based on my first time hitting dirt while camping this summer. Up front I noticed a vibration, especially at freeway speed. Ball joints were leaking. I knew I wanted to lift it, but these items will need to be addressed too. I decided to go with the Sonoran Steel 1.2, Bilsteins up front and Tokico's in the back, with the SS pan hard bar. This kit seemed best given my application... a daily driver that is very capable off road. Steve from SS installed the lift. He also installed new OEM LCA + bushings, OEM UBJs & LBJs. I am very pleased with the final product. I highly recommend giving steve a call/email. His lift including all of the supporting items and necessities to lift the truck (diff drop, brake lines, poly mounts, bump stops, sway bushings, etc...) is most excellent.

After the lift was installed, the inboard CV boots leaked from every seal. So I had new OEM CVs installed as well. Here's the front end with the new suspension and axles


There are still a few other items the truck needs. I'm pretty sure the steering rack is at its end. A bit of a vibration still persists up front (I think). Valve cover gaskets need replacing. I think there's also at least one warped rotor. And the tires are almost gone. I'll get to it. Need more time and money.

Regardless, I took it out to Bulldog Canyon today. The weather was awesome. The 4runner was great on the trails out there. Definitely confidence inspiring. I can't wait to get out again!


I've changed the front and rear diff fluids, plus the transfer case fluids. Transmission, oil and coolant fluids will be coming next. Tempted to do an external transmission radiator while I'm at it. I'll need new tires soon, which means a wider wheel to accommodate a 285/75R16 tire will be necessary. I need to get the steering rack replaced soon too. I think the rack from Safari limited is the one for me. New LED interior and reverse lights are on the way right now.

I'm totally hooked on this 4runner! More posts to come

[3rzrunner]

and nice start!

[electroCrunch]

Thanks!

I discovered I broke something out of ignorance while taking it out yesterday. I didn't realize the Sonoran Steel lift came with a drive shaft zerk replacement bolt. Prior to leaving yesterday, I put a zerk on in place of the hex bolt, greased it and hit the trail accordingly. Apparently the zerk head hit the gas skid as there's a dent in the skid covered in fresh pink Mobil 1 grease, right next to a missing zerk head. Good news is that it didn't put up much of a struggle. Easy mode.

[AZ_Trails]

Nice rig! And Steve definitely is a super knowledgable and great to work with.

[paddlenbike]

Looks like you are off to a great start. 3rd gens need very little to be trail worthy so you made a very good vehicle choice.

As far as the steering rack, you might want to look into the spot weld mod on the steering shaft. It seems like the problem lies there more often than the rack, and it's a much cheaper repair.

[electroCrunch]

Can't really see it, but I had a new drivers-side inner tie rod replaced. It had some noticeable play in it. While it was at the shop, both valve cover gaskets were replaced as well.



The shop confirmed my tires were causing continual pull to the right, weird tracking, and a little vibration at highway speeds. Time for new tires. 285/75R16 will be in order, BUT that means I need a wider wheel with less backspacing. So, I'm on the "waiting list" for some SCS F-5 gunmetal matte 16" wheels. I guess they're unavailable until mid January. I hope I can wait that long, I need new tires.

Decided to head out after I got the new TRE. See if it helped. While I feel like overall there is less vibration and the steering is "crisper", I can still feel the imbalanced tires at speed. I can also still feel a slight bit of movement in the steering. At this point, I believe I need to get the steering column tack welded. I think that's what I'm feeling up front.

Pics from today's adventure in Sycamore creek, then headed over to play in the Butcher Jones area. I'm still coming to grips with the arizona pinstriping I earned today. It was inevitable, but the paint is (was?) in excellent condition. Oh wells, many more to come







I have discovered that the rear diff locker button should instead read, "Easy Mode". Coming up from the pic just above, well the picture doesn't do it justice. It was steep with a large step halfway up. Feeling more and more confident with my 3rd gen

[electroCrunch]

Been a bit since my last update. My other project vehicle has grabbed most of my attention and resources lately.

I came to a major decision about the 4Runner: tire sizes and wheels. I decided I will not be going larger than the already-mounted 265/75R16. I'm going to stick with that size for a couple of reasons: gas mileage and power delivery. I'm already not too crazy about my average mileage and I also don't want to take a hit on putting down power due to a taller tire, regardless of the 4.30 gearing in the truck. Given my use case of mainly daily driver, I think it makes sense. So, I will soon be getting new tires, but for now I had to do something about the sunk tires. I also noticed after the lift the negative effect of the raised center of gravity with the truck. So I purchased and installed some SpiderTrax 1.25" spacers. Barely rubbing on the front inner fender flares, a little trimming will fix that. Other than that, I am really pleased with the look AND the handling due to the increase in Track. It is absolutely a noticeable difference.





Before & After:

[G-mny]

Great looking truck!..your pics gave me a kick in the butt to order me some Spidertrax spacers as well.

[electroCrunch]

Originally Posted by G-mny

Great looking truck!..your pics gave me a kick in the butt to order me some Spidertrax spacers as well.

Thanks, man! I struggled between new wheels or the spacers, and the final cost between the two was a major factor. So far, I'm pleased with the results. I'll try to get a front/rear shot of the full vehicle as well. The stance looks good, a bit more aggressive and...modern.

I just need more time and money for my obsession/passion... modifying vehicles

[electroCrunch]

I Installed the aFe dry filter, plus the Airaid Jr intake kit. I believe I spent about 40 minutes, but that included a throttle body cleaning as well. The MAF sensor looked really clean, so I didn't bother to clean it.

[electroCrunch]

Work recently done, but no picture:

Tranny fluid flush
Centric front rotors installed
Rear brakes adjusted
Front axle seals
Greased all driveshaft(s) zerks

[CDNsurf]

Awesome looking truck, like what you're doing with it!

Have a couple quick questions about your audio setup up (Im planning on doing something similar with the alpine power pack)

Do you have it wired to all 4, or did you only bridge it to the fronts?
How does the setup sound? Think about adding sound deadening at all? (I'm thinking I may do this later down the road)

Thanks

[electroCrunch]

Originally Posted by CDNsurf

Awesome looking truck, like what you're doing with it!

Have a couple quick questions about your audio setup up (Im planning on doing something similar with the alpine power pack)

Do you have it wired to all 4, or did you only bridge it to the fronts?
How does the setup sound? Think about adding sound deadening at all? (I'm thinking I may do this later down the road)

Thanks

Thanks!

Good questions.... I have it wired to all 4. The front received new 14ga pure copper wiring, all connections soldered. I utilized the already-existing rear wiring as I didn't want to tamper with the grommet in the rear door and compromise its integrity. I ran a 10ga power wire directly from the battery, with a fuse, to the amp. The amp is grounded to the body. This is a must in my opinion, if you're already taking the time to install an aftermarket amp. Feed it the clean power it needs. Solder everything you can.

The setup sounds awesome. I prefer to listen to my music in my T4R, as opposed to my home stereo or headphones. That said, there is no replacement for an amplified subwoofer if you're looking at hitting low frequencies. The amp and speakers can get pretty low, but it's not the same as a sub. However, I don't want a sub due to the extra space it takes, wiring complexity, and added weight. I just wanted high quality door speakers driven by a compact amp that performs. It does just that and does it extremely well. The system gets way louder than my ears can handle, and it's clean sounding the entire volume range.

Yes, sound deadening is recommended and something I would like to do soon. Mainly because my front door panels rattle and it gets a little annoying.

Some gothcas are if you want to go with the same size speakers as I did, then you need spacers for the rears if you want your rear windows to roll down all the way, which I did. For the fronts, it took several hours of fitment to get the speakers to fit on the plastic mounts, as well as get the crossovers lined up PERFECTLY to clear the door panel. I also couldn't get the tweeters to fit in the factory panels, so I just said eff it and and am riding raw without them.

Get the most sensitive speakers you can afford, that will really help the compact amp to shine. I highly recommend my setup if you're looking for a most-triumphant price-to-performance ratio. If money is no object, then go big or go home

If I could do it again, I would buy the exact same setup. Highly recommended. Let me know if you have any questions, I'd love to help.

[CDNsurf]

Originally Posted by electroCrunch

Thanks!

Good questions.... I have it wired to all 4. The front received new 14ga pure copper wiring, all connections soldered. I utilized the already-existing rear wiring as I didn't want to tamper with the grommet in the rear door and compromise its integrity. I ran a 10ga power wire directly from the battery, with a fuse, to the amp. The amp is grounded to the body. This is a must in my opinion, if you're already taking the time to install an aftermarket amp. Feed it the clean power it needs. Solder everything you can.

The setup sounds awesome. I prefer to listen to my music in my T4R, as opposed to my home stereo or headphones. That said, there is no replacement for an amplified subwoofer if you're looking at hitting low frequencies. The amp and speakers can get pretty low, but it's not the same as a sub. However, I don't want a sub due to the extra space it takes, wiring complexity, and added weight. I just wanted high quality door speakers driven by a compact amp that performs. It does just that and does it extremely well. The system gets way louder than my ears can handle, and it's clean sounding the entire volume range.

Yes, sound deadening is recommended and something I would like to do soon. Mainly because my front door panels rattle and it gets a little annoying.

Some gothcas are if you want to go with the same size speakers as I did, then you need spacers for the rears if you want your rear windows to roll down all the way, which I did. For the fronts, it took several hours of fitment to get the speakers to fit on the plastic mounts, as well as get the crossovers lined up PERFECTLY to clear the door panel. I also couldn't get the tweeters to fit in the factory panels, so I just said eff it and and am riding raw without them.

Get the most sensitive speakers you can afford, that will really help the compact amp to shine. I highly recommend my setup if you're looking for a most-triumphant price-to-performance ratio. If money is no object, then go big or go home

If I could do it again, I would buy the exact same setup. Highly recommended. Let me know if you have any questions, I'd love to help.

This is some good info thanks!

I just picked up some speakers a week ago :
Hertz DSK 165.3 components upfront and Hertz DCX 130.3 Coax's in the back both have sensitivities of >93DB and sounded fantastic in store. Cant wait to get them in.

I think I may get them in this week, the original plan was to wait till I got the power pack but due to being a student and having a budget I may wait till spring when the weather is better to install it haha. I think at that time I will sound deaden all doors, run new front wires and hook up the amp. The plan is also to add a small 8" sub under the seat for the lows. I think just putting in the speakers alone will be a huge upgrade.

I also considered bridging the fronts and running all 90W to the fronts and letting the backs draw from the 22W RMS HU. I'll decide about that when I get the amp.

Thanks again for your expertise and experience.

[electroCrunch]

I got it washed today and grabbed a couple of pics for fun