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Old 11-27-2006, 07:59 PM #16
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RunnerUp,

I appreciate the offer, but I found one with 65K miles at $350.00. Now we will see if the growling noise goes away. May have to replace the front wheel bearings too. And drive shaft U-joints. Then the clutch. What with 207K on the clock, the beast is due for some new stuff.
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Old 12-05-2006, 05:53 PM #17
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My 99 4runner with 77K miles rear left seal is leaking, just topped it off for now till i have time to work on it, its only a weekend driver, it took little less than half a quart.
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Old 01-02-2007, 12:00 AM #18
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I noticed that my rear diff was leaking this weekend in my 99 SR5 with 154,000 on it. It was not nearly as bad as i thought it would be once I got started. Come to find out the axle seals were good, but the pinion seal and the 3rd member seals were both bad. I bought a manual and the job took about 2.5 hrs. I am currently researching putting a new clutch in my 99, it has the god awful noise coming from the tranny that seems to be the throwout bearing going bad. Anyone have any good advice?
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Old 01-02-2007, 03:37 AM #19
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i got 141k on mine no problems at all and also that is on stock fuild too :eek2:
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Old 01-06-2007, 04:29 AM #20
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Rear Axle and Differential

Man have I had some bad experience with Toyota rear axles; therefor I believe that I know a good bit. I just put the finishing touches on my 1998 T4R's E-locker swapped rear end. The swap was not very hard thanks to Chris Gieger and Ken Emanuel's excellent write-ups. It probably took a grand total of nine hours to complete. That also includes removing the housing from the truck, painting, wiring, cutting, welding, and reassembly.

The truck has (now) 132k on it, and I began hearing a howling noise around 114k. I bought the vehicle with 107k, and it was owned by a soccer mom in Boston, MA. Nothing had really been serviced, save for oil changes. I changed EVERYTHING (plugs, wires, coil packs, PCV, filters, etc) with Genuine Toyota parts and Castrol fluids. I rode the diff as long as I could let myself (only limited because of one exploding at 65 mph when I was 446 miles away from home last year). $1100.83 was the total for parts from Inchworm Gear (very cool, excellent people). This included a factory set-up E-locker third member with a 4.30 ratio, gasket, Toyota harness, and wiring control kit. Not too shabby. Upon inspection, I noticed that the pinion spacer had been eaten pretty badly and was letting the pinion gear slosh around, overheating the diff. Probably just from lack of fluid change before my inquisition.

As far as what will fit into a third gen T4R rear axle, any third member from '79 (4x4 only) pickup until 1994.5 pickup and 1984 until 2002 T4R will fit in the housing, because they share the same bolt pattern. For some reason though, I have conflicting information about axle spline count. The E-locker count is 30 spline and so are the shafts in my 'Runner, but my 1994 pickup was also 30 spline (stock Toyota shafts, Lock Rite Locker). This conflicts with a very knowlegeble person. Check out his section on 4x4 wire at http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/
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Old 01-06-2007, 12:47 PM #21
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I change the gear oil every 30 k miles. Once these things start to growl, don
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Old 08-23-2016, 07:45 PM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hendy View Post
Fellows,

1997 sr5, 5speed 4wd. 170k miles. Ugly roar on deceleration. Here's the end of the story:

Bad bearings (pinion bearings?) in the rear differential. My local shop swapped them out for new ones, and showed me the old ones, pitted and gnarly. I'm happy to report the rig drives like new. Quiet, smooth. Was worth the $$$ to have it done. Hoping to get another 100k out of it.

Glad tidings!
What did it cost?
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Old 08-23-2016, 08:10 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willbgood View Post
What did it cost?
I'm willing to bet that the OP of a 10 year old thread probably isn't around anymore to answer that question lol.
In fact, his last activity was in 2010.
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Old 08-23-2016, 08:44 PM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Konkordmusk View Post
I'm willing to bet that the OP of a 10 year old thread probably isn't around anymore to answer that question lol.
In fact, his last activity was in 2010.
Nope and I pretty sure the prices won't be close either...missed the date on this, thanks.
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Old 08-25-2016, 07:38 PM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willbgood View Post
What did it cost?
Have some more recent data for you.

In Jan '15 at about 216,700 miles, rebuilt rear diff due to whine in 2000 3.4L T4R w/ open diff - worn pinion bearing but gears were good. Also replaced rear seals/wheel bearings because they had never been done and had fluid leaking on rear brakes. Did the rear brakes & bell cranks, too.

I did all the work myself except I had a bearing shop replace the pinion & side bearings & set-up the third member and press the axle bearings off & back on. I R&R'd the axles and third member and supplied all the diff/wheel bearing parts & pieces purchased from Camelback Toyota.

The total to do the Diff and the axle bearings (without the brakes) was about $800 which included about $320 for the bearing shop. I was very happy with the results

Good Luck,

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Old 08-29-2016, 10:22 PM #26
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2002 with 106000 miles and very suddenly a whining from the rear end came on and quickly got loud. New pinion and carrier bearings, installed where $1700....ouch.
Cheapest i could find a third member online was 1200 so I bit the bullet.
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Old 11-05-2016, 02:14 PM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckaroo View Post
Have some more recent data for you.

In Jan '15 at about 216,700 miles, rebuilt rear diff due to whine in 2000 3.4L T4R w/ open diff - worn pinion bearing but gears were good. Also replaced rear seals/wheel bearings because they had never been done and had fluid leaking on rear brakes. Did the rear brakes & bell cranks, too.

I did all the work myself except I had a bearing shop replace the pinion & side bearings & set-up the third member and press the axle bearings off & back on. I R&R'd the axles and third member and supplied all the diff/wheel bearing parts & pieces purchased from Camelback Toyota.

The total to do the Diff and the axle bearings (without the brakes) was about $800 which included about $320 for the bearing shop. I was very happy with the results

Good Luck,

Buckaroo
Thanks for the info, sorry I did not responde sooner, still recoverying from a bad motorcycle wreck.
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Old 06-05-2020, 06:25 PM #28
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2000 sr5 4wd 208,000 both rear upper control arms snapped, putting pressure on drive-line during acc/decel, gnarly rumbling during braking, acceleration, and especially accelerating from standstill or low speed on an incline. replaced rear upper control arms and the rumbling is all but gone when accelerating uphill. (1/2 gear tranny problem? after trnny flush/shift solenoid cleaning, shop says no, i'm still skeptical.) drained diff to find glitter gear oil, but no large shavings. two bad wheel bearings, no visible gear wear. thinking possible seizure due to bad fluid, will be replacing wheel bearings (diy pinion bearing replacement also?) i'm stumped due to the loss of power uphill. shes had a lot of rough miles on her (bought when i was 19 to romp in Moab, also has about three seattle-SLC to and from roadtrips under her belt. budget is next to none, but plenty of tools at my disposal and a will to learn from my mistakes.
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Old 06-07-2020, 11:58 PM #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alltimedonny View Post
2000 sr5 4wd 208,000 both rear upper control arms snapped, putting pressure on drive-line during acc/decel, gnarly rumbling during braking, acceleration, and especially accelerating from standstill or low speed on an incline. replaced rear upper control arms and the rumbling is all but gone when accelerating uphill. (1/2 gear tranny problem? after trnny flush/shift solenoid cleaning, shop says no, i'm still skeptical.) drained diff to find glitter gear oil, but no large shavings. two bad wheel bearings, no visible gear wear. thinking possible seizure due to bad fluid, will be replacing wheel bearings (diy pinion bearing replacement also?) i'm stumped due to the loss of power uphill. shes had a lot of rough miles on her (bought when i was 19 to romp in Moab, also has about three seattle-SLC to and from roadtrips under her belt. budget is next to none, but plenty of tools at my disposal and a will to learn from my mistakes.
Curious on your rear top control arms snap. Did you ever change those bushings in the control arms? As they can seize up and put extra pressure on your control arm mounts.

As I have not only broken 2 of those in the past. I have busted the mounting brackets off from binding and being in the rust belt.


Your rear diff glitter oil naturally is wear. How long did you drive around with snapped upper control arms?

Do a test on your rear diff. Take the rear driveshaft off the rear diff and see how much pressure or resistance it takes to spin the tires.

See if you have extreme wear by how much play is in the differential itself. Basically how much movement on one side with the tires off the ground and the rear end secure before the other tire moves. Also see how much before the pinion flange moves.

I thinking there are limits listed in the FSM but its possible I am wrong.


If its extremely hard to turn the tires with the driveshaft disconnected either you have some major bearings issues or your rear brakes are jamming against the drums.

However mostly you can smell the breaks and can feel major heat coming off them after a drive around if thsts the cause.

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Old 08-13-2020, 01:48 PM #30
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Thread was resurrected by others so why not add in?? Long picture stream below, but I purchased my 1997 2wd with just over 300,000 miles. The previous owner didn't seem to care about all the oil leaks and I guess it did help to keep my frame from rusting LOL. My rear diff had leaks at the carrier and passenger side axle seal. I checked around at shops to get repair quotes and it was just too high for me stomach. I decided to do it myself. Found a clean rear end but no gears at the junkyard. Someone beat me to the gears on it. It took awhile but another 4Runner showed up at the junkyard with the proper 4:11 gears so I snatched the pumpkin out. Got on RockAuto and bought all new seals and gaskets. Took my time rebuilding what I had and then painted it glossy black with a rattle can. Had some free time during the first part of Covid to swap it out. It was real work doing it by myself, but still only took a couple of days. Worth the piece of mind as well as a cleaner driveway.





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