08-27-2018, 04:14 PM
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#16
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Land of Enchantment
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Join Date: Apr 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmayer
Mine has the same symptoms. Took the servo near the glovebox off and cleaned it up, plugged in, and it seems to work fine. However, hooked everything back up and I still get the clicking. Seems like that cable is jammed somewhere other than at that servo. When it stops raining, I'll pull the cable off the heater control valve in the engine compartment and make sure that is moving freely. Sucks not having heat right now.
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Since mine is still broke although I did buy but didn't install a new servo.
The cable that goes up under the hood basically turns on and off the hot water to the heater. Since I pretty much go from season to season, I simply flip the valve the appropriate way for the season. I put it in hot water mode for the winter, and turn it off for cooling system. Simple fix.
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10-26-2018, 05:11 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 30
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: BC, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUSTRDCUSTRD
I just finished fixing this.
Take the servo actuator unit out of the car
Mark arm position then remove it
Dissasemble plastic housing.
Find the big cog and look for the missing 10 teeth. (The only 10 teeth it ever uses)
**Mark cog position and remove it.
Shave off the copper fork contacts with a razor.
Superglue them back on in the opposite positions. (Switch places)
Once dry and secure, place the cog back inside **But this time rotated 180° from original position.
Now the contacts line up. But with fresh teeth in position to do some work!
Put some extra dielectric grease on for fun.
And close it up.
Put the arm back on where it was before.
And bolt it back on.
No more click!
 http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5a9d6a78...183242_023.mp4
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk |
How did you get the cog off the spindle with the arm? I can't seem to get that assembly apart
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10-28-2018, 03:55 AM
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#18
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: USA
Posts: 8
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: USA
Posts: 8
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I had an issue with this Servo as well no heat at the beginning of the winter, I took it out and tested the Motor inside with 9V battery and it would work 1 time and 8 other time will not have enough power to actuate the motion. Because I would never pay 200.00 USD for this piece, I looked around and found out that the part is made by denso which in turns makes for other car manufactures as well. I was able to locate a very similar part for GM car for 28 bucks, ordered it and swapped the motor, reinstalled and works great!
Savings is about 160 USD!!!!
So for those who wants to do the same, the part number I ordered is:
2013-2014 CADILLAC ATS RH RIGHT TEMP VALVE ACTUATOR 22799393 -> $28.92
Denso Part N0: AW063700-8590
Original Toyota Part:
Toyota 87106-04030 Damper Servo Sub Assembly -> 187.17
Denso Part N0: AW063700-8380
My Rig is 2002 4Runner.
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11-21-2018, 12:44 AM
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#19
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 1
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: British Columbia
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Instead of starting a new thread I thought I would jump on to this one.
My runner is in the shop for various issues, one being the blend door actuator and my mechanic cant get the parts from his suppliers so I thought I would find one, but it doesnt seem too straight forward.
I found 2 on the autozone website but I am not sure if it will fit my runner. I need one for a 2000 Limited on the front passenger side.
Any help identifying which one to use?
https://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...toyota/4runner
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12-05-2018, 03:15 PM
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#20
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 4
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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1999 4Runner -- Where is the blend door?
I think I've isolated my no-heat issue.
1) Turning the Heat/Cold knob does actuate the valve on the front of the firewall that directs hot water to the heater core.
2) Turning the fan switch for the rear-seat passengers to High and moving the sliding lever to Hot does provide hot air to the area behind bottom of the driver's seat. (So I know the heater core is working and not clogged.)
Even though when turning the Heat/Cold knob, I do not hear any clicking from under or behind the dash that sounds like worn gears talked about above, I think the blend door that diverts air from the heater core to "not heater core" must be my problem. Right?
Can anyone tell me where that door is located? Is it accessible from under the dash? Or must the dash be removed? Pics and/or videos would help greatly.
Thanks,
Rocky
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12-13-2018, 06:39 PM
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#21
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Chicago
Posts: 15
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Chicago
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Boy, thought I was the only one. Cleared my heater cores. Back works fine. Cable was stuck on heater control valve. Removed cable and manually moved valve to hot. I've heard the cable also operates the damper door. I'm on a 2000 limited runner. Trying to find door myself.
Updated: found the damper door. Managed to manually move the cable back with pliers and some PB blaster. Heat is great now. I'll tackle the cable tomorrow to free it up some more. Also remove the other end from damper so it can move freely or see if there's a snag. Gotta see if clicking went away. Don't recall, was just stoked I had heat ��
Last edited by Chunhe; 12-13-2018 at 11:48 PM.
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12-22-2018, 05:29 PM
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#22
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Corpus Christi, TX
Posts: 7
Real Name: Bill David
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Corpus Christi, TX
Posts: 7
Real Name: Bill David
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!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mauzer
Is this the part your talking about?
If so here is what you need:
Toyota p/n 87106-04030 listed as a Servo Sub-Assy damper.
Its Denso p/n is 063700-8380
I just replaced mine, super simple, look for a JY replacement cause Toyota thinks they're made of GOLD...and you can't get them from pre-00 donors I think (assuming you have an 02 like myself) |
I just replaced my blower motor thinking that was the cause of the buzzing sound. it was NOT the cause. Thanks for this! I located the part and put my finger on it while I started the car. There was a distinct vibration while the buzzing was present, and when the buzzing went away, so did the vibration (usually lasts only 5-6 seconds then stops.) This part is expensive, but beyond that, it looks darn near impossible to dig out of the car. any advice?
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01-12-2019, 02:50 AM
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#23
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 1
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Vancouver, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youwitdaface
How did you get the cog off the spindle with the arm? I can't seem to get that assembly apart
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First take the nut and washers off, and then hold the spindle (near the cog) with a plier and pull the arm off. Also you don't have to shave the contacts off the cog, simply rotate it 180 clockwise and the contacts will be facing the same way.
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11-18-2019, 03:11 PM
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#24
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Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 5
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Location: Portland, OR
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Not yet a year old bump, and this seems to be the be the thread most closely related to my issue. 2002 SR5 non-digital dash.
My heater works fine. My AC works fine. The problem I have is there seems to be a bit of "drift" on the blend door towards the warm settings. As the AC runs it'll start to move to all hot air after 5-10 minutes. Then if I roll the the temp blend knob to hot & back to cold it'll stay for another 5-10 minutes before I have to repeat the process. There's also a bit of excess heat entering the cabin regardless of whether or not HVAC controls are turned on. I'm wondering if the blend door actuator is bad?
I have a couple of things I need to do to my truck under the dash so if I can bang them all out at once that'd be great.
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11-18-2019, 10:40 PM
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#25
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03taco3.4prerunner
I’ve been dealing with this for awhile, my blend for has been stuck on cold but, here in SE Texas, that’s normally only an issue about 6 weeks out of the year. Finally have a pretty cold winter so I started investigating and found a video showing similar symptoms. I found the actuator and uninstalled it, left it plugged in and it DOES work. Maybe it’s not strong enough anymore but it seems the linkage jams up and the actuator is fine. It’s very strong, when I turn the climate knob,I can’t hold the white arm in place with my finger. I really think it’s the linkage behind the instrument console. If anyone knows of any videos to get behind and service that area, it’s greatly appreciated. I’m going to pull off more interior in the morning and investigate further in the daylight.
Also, can anyone here tell me if gravity plays a role on the blend door itself? The actuator moves the linkage that pulls a cable and that moves the door, seems it isn’t PUSHING the cable? Gravity would allow the door to fall and close off the compressor or the heater core?
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This thing moves the cable attached to the water valve too. Free that cable up and your problems will go away 
__________________
2001 Sr5 V6 2WD
"...The closer you get, to the meaning, the sooner you know, that you're DREAMING..." (Black Sabbath - HEAVEN AND HELL)
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11-19-2019, 05:13 PM
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#26
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Land of Enchantment
Posts: 32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Cold War Kid
This thing moves the cable attached to the water valve too. Free that cable up and your problems will go away |
I bought the new actuator thingy but never installed it. Like your suggestion, I just connect and disconnect the water valve seasonally. Just flipped it to the heat mode recently.
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01-15-2020, 03:49 PM
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#27
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Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Portland, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highme
Not yet a year old bump, and this seems to be the be the thread most closely related to my issue. 2002 SR5 non-digital dash.
My heater works fine. My AC works fine. The problem I have is there seems to be a bit of "drift" on the blend door towards the warm settings. As the AC runs it'll start to move to all hot air after 5-10 minutes. Then if I roll the the temp blend knob to hot & back to cold it'll stay for another 5-10 minutes before I have to repeat the process. There's also a bit of excess heat entering the cabin regardless of whether or not HVAC controls are turned on. I'm wondering if the blend door actuator is bad?
I have a couple of things I need to do to my truck under the dash so if I can bang them all out at once that'd be great.
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Anybody have insight? thanks in advance
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01-15-2020, 08:37 PM
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#28
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Land of Enchantment
Posts: 32
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Location: Land of Enchantment
Posts: 32
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The one thing you can easily tell is if it is opening and closing the hot water valve on the firewall. I don't know what other function isn't working right, but that function is my main need, so I do the seasonal manually opening and closing that valve.
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01-24-2020, 06:23 PM
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#29
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Absolutely works
Quote:
Originally Posted by MUSTRDCUSTRD
I just finished fixing this.
Take the servo actuator unit out of the car
Mark arm position then remove it
Dissasemble plastic housing.
Find the big cog and look for the missing 10 teeth. (The only 10 teeth it ever uses)
**Mark cog position and remove it.
Shave off the copper fork contacts with a razor.
Superglue them back on in the opposite positions. (Switch places)
Once dry and secure, place the cog back inside **But this time rotated 180° from original position.
Now the contacts line up. But with fresh teeth in position to do some work!
Put some extra dielectric grease on for fun.
And close it up.
Put the arm back on where it was before.
And bolt it back on.
No more click!
Tapatalk Cloud - Downlaoad File VID_26410929_183242_023.mp4
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk |
Just be sure to sharpie mark the arm to where it is positioned to the bracket. Then undo the screws and clips. Mark the white gear position also, otherwise you might have to fiddle with it afterward. The copper fingers are removed easily by using a razor blade to shear top of white plastic nodules holding them in. Dont bend the copper fingers !!! Rotate that gear 180 DEGREES. I used crazy glue to reattach the copper fingers back in place put it in and BINGO blend door will operate again! Actually only takes maybe 40 minutes tops if that.The copper fingers were the most mundane things to redo which took the longest time of it all. I just did this for my 99 4runner happy to have heat again. Still rolling with 239,000 miles Thanks to all the forum posters that helped lead me to this pic and the info leading up to it
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11-10-2020, 12:21 PM
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#30
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUSTRDCUSTRD
I just finished fixing this.
Take the servo actuator unit out of the car
Mark arm position then remove it
Dissasemble plastic housing.
Find the big cog and look for the missing 10 teeth. (The only 10 teeth it ever uses)
**Mark cog position and remove it.
Shave off the copper fork contacts with a razor.
Superglue them back on in the opposite positions. (Switch places)
Once dry and secure, place the cog back inside **But this time rotated 180° from original position.
Now the contacts line up. But with fresh teeth in position to do some work!
Put some extra dielectric grease on for fun.
And close it up.
Put the arm back on where it was before.
And bolt it back on.
No more click!
Tapatalk Cloud - Downlaoad File VID_26410929_183242_023.mp4
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk |
I have a 2002 4runner. How did you get the servo out? On mine, looks like there's 3 screws, 2 of which I can get to easily, but the 3rd one is so far under, that I can't get to it without removing the foot heater vent, at the very least. I just can't seem to figure out how to do that. What am I missing? How did you get the servo out?
Thanks!
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