Help......I think I have determined the my blend door actuator door is either stuck or broken. I'm getting a loud clicking noise behind the upper two air vents. I have just a few questions. Can someone point me to where the actuator is and is this a fix that I need to bring to a shop. I think if I can locate the bad part I can fix it. I' m just hoping it not all the way behind the front dash. From what I read they all seemed to be on either side of the front dash under the glove box. I searched all the post non seems to point to a location as well as if this is a 2 hour job or full day.
As always thanks again for all your help.
dphflytyer

I'm having the same issue...I found the actuator motor - passenger side, under glove box to the left. if you turn on the car and move the switch from cool to hot the arm should be moving to open and close the blend door attached to a cable. I took mine off with three screws and opened it up. the gears inside seemed to be intact - I'm thinking the motor has just weakened over time and it does not have enough power to move the required connections.

My trouble is finding a replacement online.

Is this the part your talking about?


If so here is what you need:

Toyota p/n 87106-04030 listed as a Servo Sub-Assy damper.

Its Denso p/n is 063700-8380

I just replaced mine, super simple, look for a JY replacement cause Toyota thinks they're made of GOLD...and you can't get them from pre-00 donors I think (assuming you have an 02 like myself)

looks like it.....Thanks! Although mine only has 3 screws holding it up - this looks like 4 holes. I forgot to take a picture of the Denso part numbers before I re-installed it. Thanks for the info

Man this scared me when I saw this. Glad its easy on our vehicles. Wife has a Ford Expedition. The blend door always breaks. Its about $1200-$1500 dealer quote to fix. You have to take entire dash and console out, its insane job. There is a hack online, where I had to cut behind glove box in the heater assembly, reach in, replace door and tape over the hole. Took about an hour. Thank god for youtube and google!!!

Man you guys are the best!! I thought this was going to be one of those 2 hour jobs that lasts a weekend. Hey terrond did you have any success in finding the part on line? I was kinda wondering what it costs from the dealer before I go there and have a heart attack. Mauser thanks for the pix and part numbers I was hoping is was gonna be by the glove box. I wasn't up for a six hour job which entailed taking apart the entire front console. I was almost resigned to just live with it. I gotta tell the wife I won this part in a raffle. My runner has over 340k on it and she can't understand why I'm always shopping for parts. Thanks again for great info

one thing...so Iv'e taken this off and on several times - I triend moving the levers this motor is attached to and found that it takes considerable more force to move the lever to the "hot" position. when moving it back to "cold" it is very easy. is this normal? Maybe my servo is working fine but there is something going on with the blend door? the heater / blower contraption has never been opened up in this car. Any ideas?

Mauzer, you're right! This is a hard part to find. I took mine off. Yes, 3 screws. My denso part differs from yours. Again, I have a 2000 4-Runner. Denso part # 063700-7550. I called toytoa and they quoted me $196 for the part. I've been on Amazon and Denso's website as well as just about every other parts website you can go to. Do you know where I can get this part? Appreciate the help.

Hope I didn't mess up....I just ordered a 87106-35070 DamperServo Sub Assembly.... I have had the clicking and buzzing. What mine wasn't doing was moving the heater water control valve under the hood. Can't remember now, but it was stock one way or the other.

I was led to believe the above part is what is connected to that cable as I was told the servo will break if that cable is stuck.

Are these two different servos for two different operations? I am concerned I ordered the right one?

Thanks,
Lew

I’ve been dealing with this for awhile, my blend for has been stuck on cold but, here in SE Texas, that’s normally only an issue about 6 weeks out of the year. Finally have a pretty cold winter so I started investigating and found a video showing similar symptoms. I found the actuator and uninstalled it, left it plugged in and it DOES work. Maybe it’s not strong enough anymore but it seems the linkage jams up and the actuator is fine. It’s very strong, when I turn the climate knob,I can’t hold the white arm in place with my finger. I really think it’s the linkage behind the instrument console. If anyone knows of any videos to get behind and service that area, it’s greatly appreciated. I’m going to pull off more interior in the morning and investigate further in the daylight.

Also, can anyone here tell me if gravity plays a role on the blend door itself? The actuator moves the linkage that pulls a cable and that moves the door, seems it isn’t PUSHING the cable? Gravity would allow the door to fall and close off the compressor or the heater core?

Per my earlier response, I ordered a new actuator but haven't wanted to play ground hog to replace it. For me, I found that I can manually go under the hood and flip the heater water valve to on or off, depending on the season. This isn't moving the door, but seems to work for me.

Mine has the same symptoms. Took the servo near the glovebox off and cleaned it up, plugged in, and it seems to work fine. However, hooked everything back up and I still get the clicking. Seems like that cable is jammed somewhere other than at that servo. When it stops raining, I'll pull the cable off the heater control valve in the engine compartment and make sure that is moving freely. Sucks not having heat right now.

I had a similar issue and suspected the control cable (Under hood - center of firewall - behind top center of engine). I took a syringe and injected some liquid teflon lube down between the plastic cable housing and the steel controller cable. (It's a tight fit so the needle on the syringe made it easier) I let it soak in and gave it another few CC's. That was several years ago and I have not had an issue since. I think over time, dirt and dust gets jammed down that cable with use and it makes it hard to move. Just a suggestion...couldn't hurt to try it.

I just finished fixing this.

Take the servo actuator unit out of the car
Mark arm position then remove it
Dissasemble plastic housing.
Find the big cog and look for the missing 10 teeth. (The only 10 teeth it ever uses)
**Mark cog position and remove it.
Shave off the copper fork contacts with a razor.
Superglue them back on in the opposite positions. (Switch places)
Once dry and secure, place the cog back inside **But this time rotated 180° from original position.
Now the contacts line up. But with fresh teeth in position to do some work!
Put some extra dielectric grease on for fun.
And close it up.
Put the arm back on where it was before.
And bolt it back on.

No more click!

http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5a9d6a78...183242_023.mp4

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Any videos or pics on how to do this install?