12-10-2014, 05:28 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phoneix, AZ
Posts: 891
Real Name: Mason
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phoneix, AZ
Posts: 891
Real Name: Mason
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Lift install soon.. . what suspension components/ bushings should I replace?
Hi,
My lift has been ordered. I have incoming...
-Front Icon 2.5 Coilover (non long travel)
-Rear Icon 2.5 w/ Remote res
-OME 2890 Spings
While installing the lift and everything is apart I would like to replace some of the bushings and freshen the front end. What are some of the components I should replace ?
I have already done the lower ball joint and Tundra 199 mm brakes. Besides that everything thing is original with 207K miles.
I know for sure my lower control arm bushings need replacement (noise coming from them). What else would tighten the front end? Should I go OEM or aftermarket like Energy Suspension. Also aiming on removing my front sway bar but not decided on that yet.
Thanks for the look and suggestions,
Mason
__________________
1998 4x4 5speed E-locked 225k - TRD 2nd Gen Charger w/ URD 7th injector - ICON 2.5 Standard Coilovers, ICON 2.5 Rear w/ Remote Res, ICON FJ Shin Guards, stock UCA, Tundra 199mm, ARB Bumper, Custom Tire Swingout bumper, Custom low profile roof rack, Lotas LC, Stubbs HD-SKO, 265/75/16 Duratrecs on OEM 5 Stars, Shockworks Combo Skids, Lightforce Genesis 210 halogens, 20% front tint, Uniden 520Xpro, 99+ Cup Holders & Headlights, Clarion CX501 deck, UG scanner, rear diff mod
2003 V8 4x4 Limited Black 156k stock for now. ICON ordered
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12-10-2014, 05:43 PM
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#2
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: CO
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Elite Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masphx
Hi,
My lift has been ordered. I have incoming...
-Front Icon 2.5 Coilover (non long travel)
-Rear Icon 2.5 w/ Remote res
-OME 2890 Spings
While installing the lift and everything is apart I would like to replace some of the bushings and freshen the front end. What are some of the components I should replace ?
I have already done the lower ball joint and Tundra 199 mm brakes. Besides that everything thing is original with 207K miles.
I know for sure my lower control arm bushings need replacement (noise coming from them). What else would tighten the front end? Should I go OEM or aftermarket like Energy Suspension. Also aiming on removing my front sway bar but not decided on that yet.
Thanks for the look and suggestions,
Mason
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If you have the money I would do outer tie rod ends, upper ball joints, and sway bar links if you are planning on keeping the sway bar. Steering rack bushings are a good thing to replace also to tighten up steering.
__________________
1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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12-10-2014, 06:40 PM
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#3
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Member
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 62
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Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 62
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I run the same kit as you except I went with 891 springs. I did poly sway bar bushings front and rear and steering rack bushings along with new F&R end links and a front diff drop kit. I went with full disconnects from MStudt which may be a bit overkill. I would also look into new UCA. Light Racing, ICON, etc. instead of just replacing the ball joint.
You may find that your CV boots tear during the install. Mine didn't but I've heard it happen to others. Just something to be mindful of.
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"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten"
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12-12-2014, 02:29 PM
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#4
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Member
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phoneix, AZ
Posts: 891
Real Name: Mason
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phoneix, AZ
Posts: 891
Real Name: Mason
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white rocket
I run the same kit as you except I went with 891 springs. I did poly sway bar bushings front and rear and steering rack bushings along with new F&R end links and a front diff drop kit. I went with full disconnects from MStudt which may be a bit overkill. I would also look into new UCA. Light Racing, ICON, etc. instead of just replacing the ball joint.
You may find that your CV boots tear during the install. Mine didn't but I've heard it happen to others. Just something to be mindful of.
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Nice lift, any picture of your stance on the 891. Honestly a little worried the 890 will be too much of a lift for me.
So the parts list thus far...
Camelback Toyota...
-4806135030 (lower control arm bushings) $43.38 (how many of these do I need? I hope they are not ~$43 each!
-4504639335 (outer tie rod right) $47.24
-4504739215 (outer tie rod left) $47.24
Still searching for..
-Steering rack bushings (maybe poly on these)
-Rear Sway bar bushings
__________________
1998 4x4 5speed E-locked 225k - TRD 2nd Gen Charger w/ URD 7th injector - ICON 2.5 Standard Coilovers, ICON 2.5 Rear w/ Remote Res, ICON FJ Shin Guards, stock UCA, Tundra 199mm, ARB Bumper, Custom Tire Swingout bumper, Custom low profile roof rack, Lotas LC, Stubbs HD-SKO, 265/75/16 Duratrecs on OEM 5 Stars, Shockworks Combo Skids, Lightforce Genesis 210 halogens, 20% front tint, Uniden 520Xpro, 99+ Cup Holders & Headlights, Clarion CX501 deck, UG scanner, rear diff mod
2003 V8 4x4 Limited Black 156k stock for now. ICON ordered
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12-12-2014, 03:13 PM
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#5
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: College Station
Posts: 308
Real Name: Kishan Agravat
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: College Station
Posts: 308
Real Name: Kishan Agravat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masphx
Nice lift, any picture of your stance on the 891. Honestly a little worried the 890 will be too much of a lift for me.
So the parts list thus far...
Camelback Toyota...
-4806135030 (lower control arm bushings) $43.38 (how many of these do I need? I hope they are not ~$43 each!
-4504639335 (outer tie rod right) $47.24
-4504739215 (outer tie rod left) $47.24
Still searching for..
-Steering rack bushings (maybe poly on these)
-Rear Sway bar bushings
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Check on Wheelers Offroad for those items. They have F&R poly sway bar bushing kits which also include replacement bumpstops for the front. They also have the poly sway bar bushing kit. And all of this is really affordable, about $60 bucks total?
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2002 Toyota 4Runner SR5 2WD- 35" Duratracs, 3" SL, 2" BL, OBX Stainless Steel Headers, 95% Limited interior conversion
BUILD THREAD- http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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12-12-2014, 03:23 PM
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#6
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Member
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 62
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Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masphx
Nice lift, any picture of your stance on the 891.
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Posted in the picture gallery but here it is for reference. I got everything through Wheelers Off Road. Josh was awesome to deal with. He gave me free shipping as well. I still need to raise the front a bit more to be level. Just letting the springs settle before I do that and get an alignment. The rears are stiff but I plan on getting plate bumpers next year.
Watch the poly bushings as they will squeak/creak unless you pack them with grease. I have F&R sway bar and steering rack bushings(all from Wheelers) along with endlink disconnents from Mstudt.
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"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten"
Last edited by white rocket; 12-12-2014 at 03:26 PM.
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12-12-2014, 10:17 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: New Jersey
Age: 56
Posts: 1,963
Real Name: John
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: New Jersey
Age: 56
Posts: 1,963
Real Name: John
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masphx
Nice lift, any picture of your stance on the 891. Honestly a little worried the 890 will be too much of a lift for me.
So the parts list thus far...
Camelback Toyota...
-4806135030 (lower control arm bushings) $43.38 (how many of these do I need? I hope they are not ~$43 each!
-4504639335 (outer tie rod right) $47.24
-4504739215 (outer tie rod left) $47.24
Still searching for..
-Steering rack bushings (maybe poly on these)
-Rear Sway bar bushings
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The OEM part #s I used for my 2000 LCAs were. They are slightly different front to rear. And yes they are $40+ a piece. Get what you pay for although some have said the Whitelines are good quality.
2 - 48061-35040 Front
2 - 48061-35050 Rear
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SILVER 2000 4runner Limited TOTALED
WHITE/SILVER 1999 4runner Limited l Rear Locker l Tundra/890 coils | 5100 Bilsteins all around | Sonoran Steel Bumpstops l 199 mm Tundra brake upgrade | SCS Matte Gray Ray10 Rims | 275 70 17 BFG KO2 tires | LR UCAs | EIMKEITH panhard brackets | LED interior upgrade l Rear LED tailights l Pioneer AVH-X5700BHS Alpine Type "R" speakers NVX JAD800.4 Class D Amp Kenwood Under seat Subwoofer l Front window tint 20% l Weathertech window visors and floormats l OutGear Solutions Full Length roofrack l Morimoto 40" LED lightbar
Last edited by JRZEE2000TR4LTD; 12-12-2014 at 10:20 PM.
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12-13-2014, 12:08 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: British Columbia
Age: 39
Posts: 23
Real Name: Brian
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: British Columbia
Age: 39
Posts: 23
Real Name: Brian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Get what you pay for although some have said the Whitelines are good quality.
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I can't speak for their Runner stuff but I used a ton of Whiteline parts on my 240 and I was never dissatisfied.
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12-13-2014, 09:03 AM
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#9
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mesa Arizona
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Real Name: Neal
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Nice another Az 4runner person. Do as much as you afoord to do in the front end, replace what is needed and worn out.
Keep an eye out for off road runs, I like to do them a lot and meet local members.
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12-13-2014, 01:38 PM
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#10
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Member
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phoneix, AZ
Posts: 891
Real Name: Mason
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Posts: 891
Real Name: Mason
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I will have to research those LCA bushings some more. OEM are very pricey! Since my cv boots will probably go when I lift it (only planning on a two inch lift in front) I might pick up a couple of the napa cvs since they have a lifetime warrenty.
__________________
1998 4x4 5speed E-locked 225k - TRD 2nd Gen Charger w/ URD 7th injector - ICON 2.5 Standard Coilovers, ICON 2.5 Rear w/ Remote Res, ICON FJ Shin Guards, stock UCA, Tundra 199mm, ARB Bumper, Custom Tire Swingout bumper, Custom low profile roof rack, Lotas LC, Stubbs HD-SKO, 265/75/16 Duratrecs on OEM 5 Stars, Shockworks Combo Skids, Lightforce Genesis 210 halogens, 20% front tint, Uniden 520Xpro, 99+ Cup Holders & Headlights, Clarion CX501 deck, UG scanner, rear diff mod
2003 V8 4x4 Limited Black 156k stock for now. ICON ordered
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12-15-2014, 08:03 PM
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#11
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Member
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phoneix, AZ
Posts: 891
Real Name: Mason
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Real Name: Mason
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Maybe a stupid question but can I just 'rehidrate' the OEM boots on my cv's? I'm still a month off from getting my Icon components so if I started now maybe they won't fail. Just a thought
__________________
1998 4x4 5speed E-locked 225k - TRD 2nd Gen Charger w/ URD 7th injector - ICON 2.5 Standard Coilovers, ICON 2.5 Rear w/ Remote Res, ICON FJ Shin Guards, stock UCA, Tundra 199mm, ARB Bumper, Custom Tire Swingout bumper, Custom low profile roof rack, Lotas LC, Stubbs HD-SKO, 265/75/16 Duratrecs on OEM 5 Stars, Shockworks Combo Skids, Lightforce Genesis 210 halogens, 20% front tint, Uniden 520Xpro, 99+ Cup Holders & Headlights, Clarion CX501 deck, UG scanner, rear diff mod
2003 V8 4x4 Limited Black 156k stock for now. ICON ordered
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09-21-2019, 10:18 PM
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#12
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Missouri
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayRolla
If you have the money I would do outer tie rod ends, upper ball joints, and sway bar links if you are planning on keeping the sway bar. Steering rack bushings are a good thing to replace also to tighten up steering.
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Why not lower ball joints? CVs?
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RIP my ‘96.
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09-23-2019, 01:21 PM
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#13
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Elite Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blairracd
Why not lower ball joints? CVs?
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Replace everything you can. Just because I didn't mention it dont mean it cant be replaced. Lower ball joints should be done every 100k miles for safety. I have 300k miles on my oem cvs and boots been ripped for 100k miles.
__________________
1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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09-23-2019, 01:32 PM
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#14
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Location: San Diego, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayRolla
Replace everything you can. Just because I didn't mention it dont mean it cant be replaced. Lower ball joints should be done every 100k miles for safety. I have 300k miles on my oem cvs and boots been ripped for 100k miles.
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How on earth have those things not exploded yet?
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09-26-2019, 11:19 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by APhelps
How on earth have those things not exploded yet?
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Keep em clean. I've shot grease into them on occasion. I wheel them pretty hard at least 3-6 times a summer.
__________________
1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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