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Old 03-22-2015, 04:13 AM #16
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@snivilous I see you have been around the Bountiful B and I have driven every road on that mountain, even places where there are not trails.
IMO I wheel hard enough to get sufficient articulation that would cause rub. I have encountered situations in which I have to turn the wheel to fully locked and it had very minor rub on the UCA.
I just don't see why you have to deny what is being done, you can rant all you want about how 33" tires won't work. I put on my 33's with the intention to lift and I have.
If you get a real lift system the the tire will still articulate to the exact same position as the stock suspension (assuming you do not have new bump stops). The point I am trying to make by saying this is that the lift is not going to solve rubbing issues off road. A body lift would fix that problem, but a suspension lift should not. That is why I believed that running 33's stock was doable. I ran it for 3 months with ease, including off roading every weekend.
You can say all you want. I did it. It worked for me. Might not have been perfect, but it worked. End of story.
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Old 03-22-2015, 04:29 AM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grimarine View Post
@snivilous I see you have been around the Bountiful B and I have driven every road on that mountain, even places where there are not trails.
IMO I wheel hard enough to get sufficient articulation that would cause rub. I have encountered situations in which I have to turn the wheel to fully locked and it had very minor rub on the UCA.
I just don't see why you have to deny what is being done, you can rant all you want about how 33" tires won't work. I put on my 33's with the intention to lift and I have.
If you get a real lift system the the tire will still articulate to the exact same position as the stock suspension (assuming you do not have new bump stops). The point I am trying to make by saying this is that the lift is not going to solve rubbing issues off road. A body lift would fix that problem, but a suspension lift should not. That is why I believed that running 33's stock was doable. I ran it for 3 months with ease, including off roading every weekend.
You can say all you want. I did it. It worked for me. Might not have been perfect, but it worked. End of story.
So..... That's EXACTLY what I said?
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:01 AM #18
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It has a lot more to do with your wheel than anything else. Wider wheels rub more. You got away with it with a skinnier MT and stock BS wheels. That keeps the tire in a better spot as far as room goes. Once you go tossing on wheel spacers or less backspaced wheels is when you have to break out the hammer and sawzall. Also has do with your flares. No flares is way easier to work with than limiteds.

To clarify I believe you. I just think a lot of people will read this and think they can run them no issues no matter what. Kinda like the guy earlier whose 33s didn't fit because he had spacers. If he took them off it would have probably worked better.
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Old 03-22-2015, 10:34 AM #19
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I believe you in that you did some wheeling and it worked with the skinnier 33s.

285s though i don't believe will work on true 4wd trail without major disabling rubbing at articulation.

I think you are wrong though to say a suspension lift does not change the articulation in the wheel well.. clearly it does and it easily seen by looking at the CV angle.

One more thing to consider, what about when you got a bump and compress the front real hard?

I had my 285s on with 1.25 spacers, no BL and suspension 2.5" and when i bottomed out I damaged my fender, bent it pretty bad.

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Quick follow up on my death valley trip.



Damage report:
1. Bottomed out the front end when I hit some dirt mogals on my way out of DV. This resulted in a bent passenger fender because my 285s were sticking out toooo far.

Also, the front drivers and passenger Limited flares completely popped off and went flying in the desert.



Bent Passenger Fender













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Old 03-22-2015, 10:17 PM #20
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Ouch Brian! How much will that set you back?

When I was talking to Steve at Sonoran Steel, he mentioned that it was important to have a wheel with proper backspacing to be able to fit inside the wheel well during articulation, as well as being able to clear UCAs, so far as I can recall. He suggested a 16x8 wheel with -4.5 bs in order to clear 285x75x16s.

I know some replace upper control arms, and others use spacer kits, but is it really as straight forward as having the correct wheel to accommodate the 285x75x16 tires. He mentioned that the 7" width of the standard Toyota 4runner wheels were a contributing factor to the UCA clearance issues. I wasn't really planning on it, but if new wheels allowed me to avoid changing out other parts, and or, avoid body damage on extreme articulation, it might be a good way to go.
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Old 03-22-2015, 10:53 PM #21
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Brian I have jumped it twice in the stock setup, well at least the front two tires were off the ground, once in the snow and once in the dirt. But I had the wheel straight forward when I did and I didn't rub under the compression.
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Old 03-23-2015, 12:43 AM #22
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those pics are from about 15 months ago.

it cost me a bit to fix yes. about $120 for a body shop to bend the sender back and $200 for both front flares repainted.
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Old 03-23-2015, 09:36 AM #23
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265/75/r16 is the max tire size you can run without rub on a stock suspension. I have 265/75/r16 tires on mine and the suspension flexes out before i rub, even while turning at full lock.
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Old 08-27-2017, 12:29 AM #24
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I run 33's with 1" of sag on all ends of my rig (240K miles will do that, lol). I have a 1" body lift to compensate and 1.25" Spidertrax spacers to avoid the UCA rub. They rubbed like mad still so I had to grind back the fender about a half inch and the pinch weld is ground to the point that it looks like there isn't one.

They rub a bit on occasion still (not worried since it's smooth in there now) and I have wheeled up "moderate" trails. They definitely rub with a bit of articulation in the front (nothing in the back so far...) and I'm planning on putting a lift on it soon.
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Old 08-27-2017, 12:32 AM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CallMeAnEngineer View Post
265/75/r16 is the max tire size you can run without rub on a stock suspension. I have 265/75/r16 tires on mine and the suspension flexes out before i rub, even while turning at full lock.
that blows my mind that that little difference makes that much change. Stock was 265/70/r16 and they weren't even close at full flex
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Old 10-09-2017, 06:00 PM #26
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selling amazing condition 1997 Limited factory 16's, 2009 GX470 factory 17's, replaced with all new tires and rims this weekend
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Old 10-09-2017, 06:31 PM #27
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selling amazing condition 1997 Limited factory 16's, 2009 GX470 factory 17's, replaced with all new tires and rims this weekend

wrong thread man
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Old 01-09-2018, 04:52 PM #28
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and for kicks, I'll add more to this dead thread with flex pics with 33s before lifts



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Old 01-09-2018, 05:16 PM #29
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Ill match you
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3rd Gen Running 33" Tires with No Lift-g0010070-jpg  3rd Gen Running 33" Tires with No Lift-g0030129-jpg 
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Old 02-01-2018, 02:12 PM #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CallMeAnEngineer View Post
265/75/r16 is the max tire size you can run without rub on a stock suspension. I have 265/75/r16 tires on mine and the suspension flexes out before i rub, even while turning at full lock.
How about this size with 8" wheels on a stock 2001?
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