I have the following problems:
Remote FOB un/lock does not work but un/lock functions with keys on front doors and rear hatch key hole works. The receiver for the remote is supposed to be in the rear hatch right?

“Door” setting on rear dome – does not light up when you open the hatch but lights up on the “ON” position.

The door ajar/open indicator on the dash does not light up when the rear hatch is open.

Rear defroster – switch does not light up when you press the button on the dash

Rear wiper/washer is dead

Rear hatch window dead – dash switch does not do anything (checked if I pressed the button to lock out window operation by driver side).

License plate lights are OK.

Checked fuses (unless I missed something) and FOB batteries.

Read that the hatch window being not all the way up could be the culprit but the dash switch does not do anything and I tried holding the key all the way to the right and left in the hatch key hole too (not sure if that operates the rear window too).

Is it time to tear out the rear hatch? Any tips in removing the panels so that I do not break anything?

What do I look for when I have that open? How does the window limit switch look like? Where are the grounding points? Help!

How do I test the components in there like the window limit switch?

Anyone got pics?

Thanks all!

ok - found out how to remove tailgate panel. remove pull down strap with 10mm socket and the rest are just held down by trim fasteners.

Still looking for answers for the electrical problems! Thx!

Bump!
Anyone?

It sounds like there is something wrong with your keyless entry/security system computer. I just finished up swapped out the dented hatch on my 4Runner and I noticed that the rear window, wiper, and defrost will not work if the computer is not connected.

The security system computer is on the black plate that is under the tailgate panel. Mine was bright orange and is connected with one large plug. I'd check that wireing first and make sure something didn't come loose.

Ok, thanks so much for the info. That's interesting that those other components won't work when that ECU/box is not hooked up.

I also found some peeps having problem with the harness in the rubber boot that goes from the roof to the hatch. I looked at mine and the wires looked good and will tear into it this weekend. Others had ground problems that is located on the right hand side of the hatch but I don't have much corrosion here in Nevada and the rig has only 122K miles so I doubt that is the problem but if I'm going to tear into the tailgate might as well check that.

Thanks again!

Real quick peek under that rubber boot at the top and between tailgate and body. Are all the wires intact?
(easiest starting point)

Edit: See you've done that already. Darned.

you were probably posting when I was typing my reply above, I quickly checked the wires by removing the boots to the tailgate and the roof and the wires look fresh but I haven't looked under the black rectangular plastic clip/support in the middle. Will do that this weekend. Thanks! Did you have a similar problem before?

Yup! NP, thanks for chiming in!

Broken wires in mine caused dead wiper and dead defroster and the light not to work on 'door'. A bug (the 6 legged sort) in the switch inside the door latch also caused the light not to work on 'door'.

Good luck on finding your problem.

So you got bitten by a BUG! OK, I'll definitely look closely at that before tearing into the tailgate since I already have the boots pulled out. Though initial inspection does not show any wear and tear.

Thanks!

Thanks to LOUBARU and HABANERO!

Ok, so I started with taking the tape that covered the wires off the wire harness from the body to the tailgate. 3 wires were damaged. One had the insulation cut but no strands were cut, another had a few strands cut but decided not to worry about it and just wrapped both with electrical tape, the third one was almost cut in two, only a small piece of insulation was holding the wire together. So I tried touching the wires and the dome light did not turn on, tried the remote, no go. Time to tear up the tailgate. I found the orange box and the connector was slightly pulled out so I pushed it back in til it locked in place. Put the broken wires together again and bingo! So I removed the long plastic restraint/clip for the harness, pulled the boot further back, slipped a couple of heat shrink tubes (one bigger than the other), cut a really short piece of wire to mend the break and soldered them together. taped it up over the heat shrink tubing and taped the whole harness some more. I also added some duct tape on the plastic grommet where the wire harness comes out of the body and bends (where the wires got damaged) to add some padding. I was going to put a wireloom cover over the wires but decided not to, thinking that the added bulk might make things worse.

Will check on this problem area in a few years/10-20K miles. I'll see how the wires hold up. Soldering at the point where the wires are stressed/bent won't probably last long but hope they will. The way to really fix this problem is to remove the wire harness and splice like a 4-6 inches of wire so that the solder joints are not in areas of stress. That's why I didn't bother to fix those other 2 wires because I have a feeling I'll be fixing this problem in a few years, hopefully not sooner.

I'm actually glad that it was a ground wire that broke (I think it is, white with black stripe) and not a live one that could have caused a short and more damage.

I had the same issue with my 2002 4runner. when I took the wiring harness completely out I found that the wires were worn out farther in. they had stiffened up and a few of the wires actually broken and were shorting out.

Hey guys,

For starters, I've used this forum for years now and finally a member!

I too am dealing with the rear hatch electrical/mechanical problem(no remote/window/wiper/defroster/dome) on my 02 4Runner Limited.

The reason I'm reaching out, is because I have one extra variable separate of what was mentioned in this thread. To begin, This issue started as an intermittent problem for about two days. Now nothing works(remote/window/wiper/defrost/dome). After it all failed completely I started checking fuses in hopes that is was something simple like that but knowing in the back of my mind fuses usually don't display intermittent issues. Either they work or they don't from my understanding. Anyways, so started checking fuses and come to find out while using my fuse light, I had one fuse out under the steering wheel for the STA and then under the hood I had like 7 fuses that weren't lighting up. So I tried replacing them and even if I place new ones in, I get the same results... no light up! My question is, am I dealing with an even bigger issue than just some electrical on the back hatch? What would cause fuses not to light up?

FYI: When testing the fuses, I had the keys turned over but the car wasn't running.

Thank you for your time in advance!

A 4Runner is not like a house. Many fuses are not energized until the circuit is activated. For example, the STA fuse is not energized until the key is turned all the way to the START position. HEAD, FOG and DEFOG fuses are not energized until those items are turned on. This is because the relays are upstream of the fuses they control.

Look at how your STA fuse is wired:

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-...mci/013sis.pdf

As you said, fuses don't heal themselves. Rarely a fuse will open and then make contact across the break. But it doesn't last long.

This isn't really related to your topic but I need some help...

I have a 00' Limited Edition and it came with the Theft Deterrent/Engine Immobiliser Systems.

When the truck is locked the alarm goes off as it pleases. So I have to keep one door unlocked at all times.

Batteries in remotes were changed as well as the truck battery.

Does anyone have any suggestions on where I should begin? I do all of my own work and I would hate to have to take it to the dealership.

Thanks guys,
Amber