One of my rear license plate screws has broken off (rust) so I'm going to head down to LOWES to see if I can match one up. Checking to see if anyone can provide me with the size of the replacement and if you switched over to a stainless-steel bolt? Thanks.

Bolts should be 6mm bolt X 1.00 thread pitch. Always drilling these screws out at my dealer. we install plastic screws so if they ever break again they are really easy to drill out.

I take a small drywall anchor and clip it so it's short and insert it into the holes. I have a big assortment of stainless steel screws and washers from the boating section of Walmart. I use those to hold the license plate. Most of the trouble with license bolts comes from two dissimilar metals. The plastic anchor isolates the two metals. The stainless never rusts and looks good. The dealer bolts rust.

did you ever find those plate screws... can you tell me the correct size, mine are rusty af and my local Ace can't match 'em

M6 with 1.0 threads and 10mm long.

I ordered these according to your spec:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/M6-1-0-x...1544/310351607

They just test-fitted fine. I'll put anti-seize on them when I finally install my new plates.

To remove the old ones I had to soak the right one repeatedly with CRC Freeze-Off for about 5 days:
Since I'm replacing ancient plates I bent the old plate's edge back with a hook to create a little well which I could dump the freeze-off down (put a paper towel behind the plate across the bottom to catch excess). With each application, I would open the door and leave it up so the freeze-off would soak DOWN into the screw. I'd leave it like for a few hours, then do it again, leaving the door open most of the day. I started last Saturday and finally yesterday the screw came loose with minimal effort.

I can confirm this is the correct size and thread pattern. Just did this the other day. Also had to re tap the threads on one of them since they were so damaged.

Several of mine broke off as well, they are now attached with zip ties - real classy looking, and other way to get these bolts out? I bought a set of “speed outs” as seen on tv ads, they didn’t do sh!t,

This is what mine looked like when I bought it.


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Start with a small sharp drill bit and drill a hole through the center of each bolt. Then go up in sizes of drill bits until you end up with the bit needed for your tap and cut new threads in the hole you just drilled. Use plenty of oil while drilling and taping.


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I've done this method many times working at a dealership.

The dumb bastards at Ft Bend Toyota of Richmond, TX used lag bolts on my rear plates.

I used stainless bolts as replacements.


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I use stainless as well.

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Working at a dealership, I can tell you one thing for sure. The bolts rusting is only half the problem. The nut-sert on the vehicle is just painted steel and once you break through the paint - by threading any metal fastener into it - it too will corrode.

As other have already stated, plastic bolts are really the way to go. (That's all we use.) But I always apply a dab of corrosion resistant grease to the threads before I put everything back together. This will at least slow down the corrosion of the female threads.