01-27-2015, 09:06 PM
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#1
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Location: PA
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Need engine advice
So I went out to start my 1997 Limited the other day and it would barely turn. Ended up towing it to local garage and they said there is coolant in the cylinder. They got it running, and showed me a test with blue fluid in a turkey baster looking tube that they held over the open radiator cap area and it turned light green. He said this means hydrocarbons in the coolant and that the engine is shot.
I was devastated! I've had this truck since 35k miles and I have 143k on it now. I have done every preventative maintenance and run amsoil in everything, and now this happens.
I live in Allentown, PA and I am hoping someone on here can give me some good advice as to what I should do.
I drove it home (about 1/4 mile) and it's sitting in my driveway now. Hopefully the experts on here have some helpful ideas! Thanks in advance guys!
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01-27-2015, 09:11 PM
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#2
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Two options:
1. Change the head gasket on your current engine. Use ONLY OEM parts.
2. Swap in a new engine. JDM engines are a popular option on here but you have no idea of the engine's history aside from the mileage. However, most have had good luck with them.
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01-27-2015, 09:11 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Dec 2014
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Is the oil milky?
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01-27-2015, 09:58 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Link12
Is the oil milky?
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I'd have to check it in the morning to be sure but it wasn't before I took it to the garage, but I think when he showed it to me at the garage it was alittle milky.
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01-27-2015, 10:07 PM
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#5
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I did see some of the guys using those JDM engines, but I couldn't find anything on a specific place that is good to get one from. I found this place:
5VZ-FE 3.4L 96-03 4Runner / 95-99 T100 / 95-03 Toyota Tacoma 99-03 Tundra (V6 Only) Engine JDM 5VZFE
shows in stock and $999 and since it isn't too far away from me I could go and pick it up, so no shipping costs.
I actually found the same company on ebay for 100 less so hopefully I could get that price going right to them instead of thru ebay.
I do have a friend of a friend that is willing to do the labor for 800-1000. He works at a jeep/dodge dealer but knows his stuff.
What do you guys think of that JDM place?
Anyone with any other thoughts?
Thanks guys!
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01-27-2015, 10:11 PM
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#6
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I'd replace the head gaskets and go from there. As for a replacement engine......I look on Craig's List for someone parting out a wreck.
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01-27-2015, 10:12 PM
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#7
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Hydrocarbons in the coolant doesn't automatically mean the engine is shot. It means that is has a blown head gasket.
Now if you've been driving it for a long time like that you could have bearing damage, but that wasn't stated.
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01-27-2015, 10:15 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chewybtc
What do you guys think of that JDM place?
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I think that this is the million dollar question. I plan on going with a JDM replacement one day. It is hard to get a good read on most of the ones that I have looked into. Since the one that you posted is nearby, you should see how they would feel about you dropping by to do a compression test on that motor. That should give you a decent idea of both the motor and the seller.
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01-27-2015, 10:49 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csp
Hydrocarbons in the coolant doesn't automatically mean the engine is shot. It means that is has a blown head gasket.
Now if you've been driving it for a long time like that you could have bearing damage, but that wasn't stated.
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I don't know engines well, but was told that replacing the head gasket is pretty costly as well due to the labor, and that it can be pitted, so if you don't grind it down perfect again, it will just happen again.
Is this not true?
And how would I know how long it has been doing it? I mean one day it seems fine, the next I go to start it and it won't turn (do to coolant hydrolocking the cylinder)
My buddy said that I could have even bent a rod or something just by trying to start it when the cylinder was locked. (But I didn't know that when I tried to start it that morning)
Last edited by chewybtc; 01-27-2015 at 10:52 PM.
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01-27-2015, 11:56 PM
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#10
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Well yes, if it was hydrolocked it's probably beyond a head gasket replacement and yes the connecting rod could be bent.
You didn't mention that it was hydrolocked in the original post.
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01-28-2015, 12:08 AM
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#11
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If you bent a rod you would have been hearing some odd noises on your 1/4 mile drive home. How did it sound?
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01-28-2015, 12:33 AM
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#12
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I'm going to be this guy........small block........lol
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01-28-2015, 12:36 AM
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#13
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My choice
If indeed you have a blown head gasket then you have a couple of things to consider.
If you're going to do the work, then changing the HG may pay if the heads aren't pitted--- they still have to be planed, at least. If the heads are toast, you're looking at $500-600 a head for rebuilds plus $300 for a gasket set. If you're not doing the work, double it, with labour.
If you're doing the replacement, for a decent JDM, you're looking at $1K and a couple of weekends. It's not that hard compared to most newer vehicles. If you're not doing the work, look around for a decent mechanic (you might get some referrals here), I've seen mechanics charge anywhere from $600 to $1200. Food for thought....
I had a bottom end failure so, for me it was a no-brainer. I did the swap myself in my driveway. I spent more than most, because I changed everything I could on the replacement. And I bought some tools!
I found a JDM with (they claimed) only had 65K KM (45K miles). It definitely had low mileage as it was exceptionally clean inside with very little sign of wear. All of the local wrecker junk had as much mileage or more than my old engine---- talk about flipping a coin! My JDM was about $1500US ($1800CDN) with taxes and shipping to the West coast (I shipped it from QC). If you're in the East, you should be able to find a JDM seller locally. I found quite a few located in NY, NJ, QC, ONT etc, and save the shipping.
My replacement went well, and I've been running it now for a year. I'm extremely satisfied with the results.
My link: My Engine Swap in progress!
Good Luck!
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Last edited by poleclimber63; 01-28-2015 at 12:49 AM.
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01-28-2015, 12:46 AM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chewybtc
I did see some of the guys using those JDM engines, but I couldn't find anything on a specific place that is good to get one from. I found this place:
5VZ-FE 3.4L 96-03 4Runner / 95-99 T100 / 95-03 Toyota Tacoma 99-03 Tundra (V6 Only) Engine JDM 5VZFE
shows in stock and $999 and since it isn't too far away from me I could go and pick it up, so no shipping costs.
I actually found the same company on ebay for 100 less so hopefully I could get that price going right to them instead of thru ebay.
I do have a friend of a friend that is willing to do the labor for 800-1000. He works at a jeep/dodge dealer but knows his stuff.
What do you guys think of that JDM place?
Anyone with any other thoughts?
Thanks guys!
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That is the place I got my JDM. Except I drove there and picked one out. Its only an hour away from me. So I got choose one out of like 20 they had. I payed $1500. And it purps like a kitty knock on wood. I cleaned everything up, replaced all seals. So far so good.
Must also add that my buddy got a supra engine from them also. It to ran good till he sold it and the other person beat the shit out of it and didn't maintain it.
The benefit of driving to the place is you get to pick the cleanest one out. I can tell you from being at their warehouse, some engines looked beat up some didn't. I didn't even bother looking at the timing belt sticker. As in when it was replaced. I just picked the cleanest and the one with least sludge on it. Then at home I looked at the timing belt. And it was replaced around 60k. So even though they say their motors have 40-60k. I doubt it. Who knows how long the person drove after replacing the timing belt. Mine came with 6 month warranty. Which is good. But its way passed that now.
I hear the 5vzfe have strong bottom ends. But I was to in the same boat. I remember trying to start my truck and it wouldn't. On second crank it started up. I drove it home to come find out I have 0 coolant and huge puddle behind exhaust. I was afraid I had forced the crank over and could have possibly slightly bent a rod of bearing. So fixing the head gasket and after couple hundreds miles hearing bottom end noise was a no no. But I could have been lucky, or having cracked head(s).... Either way I opted for new motor. And thank god I have a buddy who has a garage, lift and tools. He did all work for free.
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Last edited by kolelt; 01-28-2015 at 01:00 AM.
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01-28-2015, 07:28 AM
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#15
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Thanks everyone for the info and advice. To clarify, the problem just happened one morning and I tried multiple times to start it, but it was pretty much locked. I guess too much coolant in it to turn it over. That's why my mechanic friend said you don't really know if anything else was bent inside. He said coolant can do some damage even just by trying to start it like that.
After towing it to the garage, they got it running (don't know how) and then diagnosed the issue. I drove it home (1/4 mile) and it seemed OK but white smoke coming out exhaust. i didn't really hammer on it or anything, i just wanted to make it home.
I want to keep this truck for many more years. It's my daily driver right now, but I work from home, so I only put about 7k a year on the truck. It has 143k miles on it and i have some mods done (OME lift, bigger tires, other small mods). But I was just getting ready to put some money into having my mechanic friend go over the whole truck and repair replace anything rusting, etc.
I also had a leak in rear axle seals, that has been worked on 4 times now (first 3 times same garage tried to fix, they nicked the axle the first time, but never told me) dealer finally told me on the 4th time fixing it, but it is slow leaking again, so i will probably need a new right side axle to finally fix the leak.
I'd like to replace the front/rear bumpers and put a set of sliders on. Projects that i was going to do in spring when the snow is gone.
So i was leaning towards the engine swap so that i have a decent shot at getting a bunch of years out of the truck.
My friend is going to do the labor for 800-1000 if i go the engine swap route.
Would i need to replace the water pump and timing belt while its out of the truck, or is that overkill on these JDM engines?
Thanks so much guys, I really appreciate it!
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