02-03-2015, 11:27 AM
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#16
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Join Date: Apr 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TFRnoob
Hello everyone,
I have a 1999 Toyota 4Runner and love it. When I bought the car I knew it had an oil leak. I would routinely check the oil and make sure it was at an appropriate level. I let my sister borrow the car for 2 weeks and completely forgot to remind her about the oil leak.
She was driving on the freeway when the oil light went on and smelt an odor she describes as burning oil or "brakes", the car rattled to a halt as she pulled over. She called me and I immediately met her with 5qts of 10W-40 oil. I poured the oil in after checking the oil level and drove to my house (about 30 miles) I noticed a drop in power and a loud-ish knocking noise particularly in the higher RPMs. I am afraid there is likely to be some major engine damage. That being said I would love some advice on how to diagnose the problem(s) the car will have and the different scenarios that are associated with the problems the car faces.
Thanks everyone!
Rich
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For some reason when I read this.
All I keep seeing in my mind is this.
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02-03-2015, 11:47 AM
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#17
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Utard
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Real Name: Kevin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TFRnoob
Thanks for the help everyone! Okay, so here are a few symptoms I found upon a more careful inspection that may help narrow the focus of the possible issues at hand. I suspect a cracked head or head gasket because there seems to be coolant towards the front end of the engine bay.
New symptoms are as follows:
coolant leaking from unknown source towards the front end of the engine bay.
when going in reverse, there is a pulsing.
The higher the RPMs, the louder the noise is.
No significant noise when in neutral.
Noise (clacking) occurs when turning on the car and when I am driving especially over 25mph.
Anyway, I hope this helps a little bit. I will be checking the compression later as well as checking for metal shavings in my oil later tonight. Any comments/ suggestions?
Thanks again all!
-Rich
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I think you're missing the point. Compression is irrelevant at this point, you've got rod knock. A head gasket will not help. Your motor is not pining for the fjords. It is no more. It has ceased to be. It's off the twig, it has kicked the bucket, it has run down the curtain and joined the choir invisible. It is an ex-motor.
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The Grey Bastard, 1985 4Runner, driveway ornament.
Utah DesertRunners T4R, for all things wheeling and 4Runner in Utah.
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02-03-2015, 01:55 PM
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#18
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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I am having a tow truck tow it to a mechanic to diagnose the problem(s) with the vehicle tonight when I get off work. I expect the mechanic to diagnose the problem and for him to say (like everyone on this forum) that the engine is completely toast. Hopefully he can tell me specifically what broke inside the engine. When I get that information I will post and maybe either get to fixing the engine after pulling it out of my truck or look for advice on seeking a new (used) motor. I love this truck and maybe I can even give her an upgrade.
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02-03-2015, 02:22 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Boston MA
Age: 40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayRolla
LOL, that is not the problem Oil is oil, it will do its job. I mean even some gear oil in the motor would have been better. No oil is not good.
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As another wise man here once said, "even buttery flavored crisco would be better than nothing"
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http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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02-03-2015, 02:58 PM
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#20
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Diego
Age: 41
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Quote:
I will post and maybe either get to fixing the engine after pulling it out of my truck or look for advice on seeking a new (used) motor.
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Don't waste your MONEY trying to fix it.
It would be one thing if you could do the work yourself but since you will be paying $4,000 to fix it and new-to-you USED engine with < 100K miles can be found for $1500 and installed for $750 there is no good reason to fix it. Especially since it wasn't just a head gasket or head. This was more serious and did more harm.
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02-03-2015, 06:17 PM
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#21
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Mall Crawlin @ 36.1911° N, 44.0092° E,37.7460° N, 119.5329° W
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TFRnoob
I am having a tow truck tow it to a mechanic to diagnose the problem(s) with the vehicle tonight when I get off work. I expect the mechanic to diagnose the problem and for him to say (like everyone on this forum) that the engine is completely toast. Hopefully he can tell me specifically what broke inside the engine. When I get that information I will post and maybe either get to fixing the engine after pulling it out of my truck or look for advice on seeking a new (used) motor. I love this truck and maybe I can even give her an upgrade.
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The quote I put up there is going to be what you are looking at. The shop rate will very a little bit but that install time is right out of Alldata. Everything else you will need to have done at the same time as you stuff a good used engine in it.
Compare and shop around bud and see what they tell you. If it is going to be very cheap I would run. This is not a Chevy 350 to put in a truck. It doesn't take a rocket scientist but I would not take it to some fly by night shop either.
Keep us posted man when you find the engine for the swap.
Blue
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02-03-2015, 06:26 PM
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#22
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Plano/Dallas Tx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KidVermicious
I think you're missing the point. Compression is irrelevant at this point, you've got rod knock. A head gasket will not help. Your motor is not pining for the fjords. It is no more. It has ceased to be. It's off the twig, it has kicked the bucket, it has run down the curtain and joined the choir invisible. It is an ex-motor.
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Perhaps he could fix it with a herring?
But look on the bright side, the next time you start the engine and rev it up, it may just throw a rod. Then you won't have to do any more diagnostics, because a head gaskets and cylinder compression will be the least of your worries...
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02-24-2015, 09:20 PM
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#23
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Michigan
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I have a question I believe belongs in this thread. If you were to replace a motor in your runner , or rebuild, which would it be? Also, would say a gen 4 motor slide into a gen 3?
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02-24-2015, 09:29 PM
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#24
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mohjo712000
I have a question I believe belongs in this thread. If you were to replace a motor in your runner , or rebuild, which would it be? Also, would say a gen 4 motor slide into a gen 3?
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Welcome Michigander, No it wouldn't just slide in a 3rd gen , you can make anything work but it would be much more time and cost effective to find a good 3rd gen.
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02-24-2015, 10:02 PM
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#25
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 167
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Sorry for your troubles (OP) but this is bad news bear as you've already heard. Seek out a good used motor and go from there. The gravity of this post reminds me a thread on a different forum where the member poured brake fluid into their transmission fill, or maybe it was ATF into their oil fill. Either way it was BAD.
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02-24-2015, 10:38 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Denver
Posts: 2,350
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Wait so... you can't drive without oil?
What a gimmick. They warned me against Toyota's.
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02-24-2015, 10:50 PM
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#27
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amalik
Wait so... you can't drive without oil?
What a gimmick. They warned me against Toyota's.
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You can but it generally turns out to be a short trip.
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02-25-2015, 01:17 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian4t
Sorry for your troubles (OP) but this is bad news bear as you've already heard. Seek out a good used motor and go from there. The gravity of this post reminds me a thread on a different forum where the member poured brake fluid into their transmission fill, or maybe it was ATF into their oil fill. Either way it was BAD.
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rofl. might as well put dishwashing fluid in the radiator while at it.
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07-03-2015, 01:21 AM
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#29
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RinoRomp
Same thing happend to my BMW... it was mostly the connecting rod bearings and a little extra wear on the main bearings.
I did the work for about $300, big job.
Can you pop in conrod bearings just by cracking the oil pan like a BMW?
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So I have had the truck in the driveway collecting bird turd for a while and as soon as I get the nerve to start the engine replacement I get a call from my landlord requesting that I get the car working or have it towed away (a reasonable request I guess).
Anyway, I have the battery out, oil drained, coolant drained, and underpinnings removed in preparation for removing the engine. However, due to the lack of time I face now I am beginning to think this idea of changing the rod and main bearings in situ might be my only option. I am trying to find out the details on how to proceed with the bearing change by removing the oil pan.
What things should I consider before moving forward? Has anyone done this before? If not, perhaps I can document this potentially disastrous journey in a separate thread.
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