07-03-2015, 04:34 AM
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#31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TFRnoob
Thanks for the help everyone! Okay, so here are a few symptoms I found upon a more careful inspection that may help narrow the focus of the possible issues at hand. I suspect a cracked head or head gasket because there seems to be coolant towards the front end of the engine bay.
New symptoms are as follows:
coolant leaking from unknown source towards the front end of the engine bay.
when going in reverse, there is a pulsing.
The higher the RPMs, the louder the noise is.
No significant noise when in neutral.
Noise (clacking) occurs when turning on the car and when I am driving especially over 25mph.
Anyway, I hope this helps a little bit. I will be checking the compression later as well as checking for metal shavings in my oil later tonight. Any comments/ suggestions?
Thanks again all!
-Rich
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Jap motors (basically all new motors) cant handle overheating the way old American motor's could. Your head gasket is toast as well as the bottom of the motor. If the block isn't cracked you could do a rebuild but a used low mileage engine is probably the way to go. Sorry this happened.
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07-03-2015, 04:42 AM
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#32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TFRnoob
So I have had the truck in the driveway collecting bird turd for a while and as soon as I get the nerve to start the engine replacement I get a call from my landlord requesting that I get the car working or have it towed away (a reasonable request I guess).
Anyway, I have the battery out, oil drained, coolant drained, and underpinnings removed in preparation for removing the engine. However, due to the lack of time I face now I am beginning to think this idea of changing the rod and main bearings in situ might be my only option. I am trying to find out the details on how to proceed with the bearing change by removing the oil pan.
What things should I consider before moving forward? Has anyone done this before? If not, perhaps I can document this potentially disastrous journey in a separate thread.
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It's never going to run right. The whole bottom end needs to be rebuild by a professional. Are you sure the block isn't cracked? Just pay someone to install a used motor.
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'99 4Runner - 2.7L 3RZ, 5 Speed, 4.56 Gears - Lifted, Locked & Loaded - 166k Original owner - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
'99 Limited - E-Locker- Stock (for now) - 233k 2nd Owner http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ted-build.html
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07-03-2015, 07:56 AM
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#33
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You can rebuild the motor without pulling it, but it won't save you any effort - it'll probably be harder in the long run, and you'll get frustrated and try to hurry, and you'll end up doing a shit job and have to redo it in three months anyway. I'd yank it.
If you're going to rebuild it yourself and need to buy time, yank it out of there and throw in a junkyard motor. Or buy a JDM block. Or bite the bullet and have it towed to a professional. My choice would be to find a cheap used motor, throw it in, then take my time rebuilding the original one.
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07-03-2015, 08:40 AM
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#34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KidVermicious
You can rebuild the motor without pulling it, but it won't save you any effort - it'll probably be harder in the long run, and you'll get frustrated and try to hurry, and you'll end up doing a shit job and have to redo it in three months anyway. I'd yank it.
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^^This^^
Don't waste your time trying to band-aid it. Start tearing your engine out now while you look for a replacement one.
Or just get a whole other T4R. If the body/frame of yours is in good shape, you can still fetch some decent coin for it from a buyer up North
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07-03-2015, 12:07 PM
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#35
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All your oil drained in 2 weeks??
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07-04-2015, 12:04 AM
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#36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpidermanGeek
^^This^^
Don't waste your time trying to band-aid it. Start tearing your engine out now while you look for a replacement one.
Or just get a whole other T4R. If the body/frame of yours is in good shape, you can still fetch some decent coin for it from a buyer up North
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I like the idea of selling the body/frame. It really might be my only option at this point :/ How would you recommend going about this. I doubt throwing it on Craigslist around here would do me much good.
Thanks for the suggestion.
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07-04-2015, 12:06 AM
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#37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxer
All your oil drained in 2 weeks??
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HAHAHA yes, it was a tough job. No it took a while for me to work up the courage to begin the work as I know it is going to be a living nightmare.
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07-04-2015, 12:12 AM
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#38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpidermanGeek
^^This^^
Don't waste your time trying to band-aid it. Start tearing your engine out now while you look for a replacement one.
Or just get a whole other T4R. If the body/frame of yours is in good shape, you can still fetch some decent coin for it from a buyer up North
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You think replacing the rod and main bearings in the motor might not solve my problem? How can I tell if there is a crack in the head or block? I probably cant do a pressure test in my driveway. Is there a simpler way? I am trying to remember if there was any coolant/water in the oil and it didn't look like it.
Also, the radiator was full; although, the coolant reservoir was pretty much empty. Not sure what that implies exactly but doesn't seems good.
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07-04-2015, 01:44 PM
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#39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TFRnoob
HAHAHA yes, it was a tough job. No it took a while for me to work up the courage to begin the work as I know it is going to be a living nightmare.
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I think he's just wondering how the hell the engine got oil starved within 2 weeks of use if you're so religious about checking the oil level.
Sounds like the engine already had problems that needed to be addressed way before it got crippled.
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07-04-2015, 05:58 PM
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#40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpidermanGeek
I think he's just wondering how the hell the engine got oil starved within 2 weeks of use if you're so religious about checking the oil level.
Sounds like the engine already had problems that needed to be addressed way before it got crippled.
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You're right, it wasn't in amazing shape. There was an oil leak that needed to be addressed and i am beginning to suspect a failing oil pump. The oil light would go occasionally and there would be oil still in the truck.
Basically its toast but if i can get rid of the rod knock etc and band aid fix it maybe I can sell it "as is" and explain what happened to the truck. Perhaps someone else can address the oil leak/oil pump etc. Who knows...
Right now I am trying to cut my losses and figure out what the best path is to take financially. I don't mind working on the truck if it will get me money to buy a new truck or something.
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07-04-2015, 06:03 PM
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#41
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Some Questions
I have a couple of questions for everyone.
1. Is it possible to replace the main bearings and rod bearings through the oil pan?
2. Under what circumstances would this be advisable (im trying to just get rid of the car at this point)?
3. Is it worth a shot if I don't find any other major defect to the engine (ie. the suspected cracked head/ block)?
Thanks all,
Rich
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07-04-2015, 06:14 PM
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#42
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Don't bother trying to just replace the bearings. Have you even considered how you'd get the crank out and then back in? That alone should deter you. Not to mention it totally ignores any possible machine work to the bearing journals or scoring to the cylinder walls, or the fact that the entire oiling system is now full of shredded bearing material. You don't just replace the bearings and call it a day.
You really only have one option if you're not going to pull the motor. Don't put another thought, bit of time, or dollar into it, sell it as-is, and cut your losses.
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07-04-2015, 06:49 PM
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#43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twan
Don't bother trying to just replace the bearings. Have you even considered how you'd get the crank out and then back in? That alone should deter you. Not to mention it totally ignores any possible machine work to the bearing journals or scoring to the cylinder walls, or the fact that the entire oiling system is now full of shredded bearing material. You don't just replace the bearings and call it a day.
You really only have one option if you're not going to pull the motor. Don't put another thought, bit of time, or dollar into it, sell it as-is, and cut your losses.
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hear hear well said. I declare this thread over lol
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07-04-2015, 07:10 PM
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#44
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^^^ this guy nailed it.I know it's not the option you were thinking of OP but trying to bandaid the bottom end is really the worst thing. You really would be better of to peruse the craigslist.org and find a wrecked rig or a used motor. Find a fellow t4r.org member Iin your area to help and if you are not mechanical find a friend to teach and help. That is honestly the least expensive and less pain in the booty way of fixing that issue.
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07-05-2015, 01:00 AM
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#45
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Sorry to hear about the truck OP.
I'm confused on after the many people who are very knowledgeable about these trucks say "pull the motor" you just say "yeah, but . . . ".
This thread is long over. 3 pages of people telling you the entire motor is toast, not many other ways of saying it.
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