Engine Trouble caused by driving without oil - Page 5 - Toyota 4Runner Forum

TFRnoob · 07-12-2015, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cashmoney

That looks like coolant in your oil. $20 your head gaskets are blown. Pull the motor and rebuild it.

It could be the head gasket(s) but it could also be a cracked head or cracked block. My engine is toast. I am just gonna get some experience working on cars without much consequence for royal mess ups as the engine is already pretty dead.

My stubborn ignorant plan is as follows:

1. insert new rod and main bearings, assess crank's condition.

2. Clean oil strainer, oil pan, and rest of bottom end so I can begin the hunt for evidence of a cracked block and to make oil leak discovery easier.

3. Fill engine with oil and coolant.

4. Check compression to find out condition of head gasket(s) etc.

5. No clue.

TFRnoob · 07-12-2015, 05:58 PM

Good idea, I better clean the exterior before posting pics as it has been target practice for the birds who live in the tree the truck sits under for a while now.

TFRnoob · 07-12-2015, 11:20 PM

I took the oil strainer and oil baffle off and identified 2 loose rods. I will be ordering bearings soon. I will also need to order a few tools too.

To check all of the rods I also might need to take the spark plugs out so I can manually turn the crankshaft.

I will send some pics to show the condition of the crankshaft when I get the caps off.

Twan · 07-12-2015, 11:59 PM

So how exactly do you plan on measuring the rod and crank journals to know what size you need, since there is now zero consistency between them all?

TFRnoob · 07-13-2015, 12:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twan

So how exactly do you plan on measuring the rod and crank journals to know what size you need, since there is now zero consistency between them all?

That's a good question. I think since I have only found two rods with any play that those two might be the only challenging ones. I know this motor hasn't been rebuilt before so I know that the crankshaft hasn't been ground down at all. So from my limited understanding, it should be okay to put the standard bearing size in for at least the 4 bearings that don't have any play. I also think that if there isn't too much damage to the crankshaft (fat chance) that I will just replace even the two bad bearings with the standard size.

Also, if anyone cares, the two rods that have bad bearings are the middle two when looking at the crankshaft from under the truck.

SpidermanGeek · 07-13-2015, 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TFRnoob

The more I think about it, the more this idea appeals to me. Is there a Canadian Craig's List? Pardon my ignorance. :/

Thanks for the advice btw!

-Rich

There's Kijiji.ca, but don't worry about that. Post on your Cali craigslist because that's where the Canadians and Northern US folks are going to be looking.

jhfleet · 07-13-2015, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TFRnoob

It could be the head gasket(s) but it could also be a cracked head or cracked block. My engine is toast. I am just gonna get some experience working on cars without much consequence for royal mess ups as the engine is already pretty dead.

My stubborn ignorant plan is as follows:

1. insert new rod and main bearings, assess crank's condition.

2. Clean oil strainer, oil pan, and rest of bottom end so I can begin the hunt for evidence of a cracked block and to make oil leak discovery easier.

3. Fill engine with oil and coolant.

4. Check compression to find out condition of head gasket(s) etc.

5. No clue.

My suggestion is to find a nice vacant lot and dig big holes in the ground then fill them back up. You'll accomplish just as much and won't have to spend anything on parts.

TFRnoob · 07-15-2015, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhfleet

My suggestion is to find a nice vacant lot and dig big holes in the ground then fill them back up. You'll accomplish just as much and won't have to spend anything on parts.

Thanks, well help me dig this figurative ditch please. I do have a connecting rod cap off and the bearings are pretty bad; however, the crankshaft hasn't been scored really. I am going to polish the crankshaft in-situ and replace the bearings one-by-one like this.

I do have a problem however. I can't seem to get the main bearing cap off. I took all 8 bolts out and tugged on the cap but it only rocks back and forth. Is it possible to remove this? What am I missing? If I can't get it off can I simply retorque the main cap or do I need new bolts etc.

Thanks all,

Rich

T4R2014 · 07-15-2015, 10:38 PM

Hey guys, I have a 5VZ that threw a rod. I found all the pieces though so I'm going try try and re-use the block.

cashmoney · 07-15-2015, 11:08 PM

As much as we joke, I watched a guy do a similar in frame rebuild on a diesel. Hand polished the crank with emory cloth even. All without pulling a single rod or unbolting the head. Ended up cranking out 700hp for a few years and several 11sec passes before the head gasket popped. Just saying, while I wouldn't do it, it can be done.

TFRnoob · 07-16-2015, 01:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cashmoney

As much as we joke, I watched a guy do a similar in frame rebuild on a diesel. Hand polished the crank with emory cloth even. All without pulling a single rod or unbolting the head. Ended up cranking out 700hp for a few years and several 11sec passes before the head gasket popped. Just saying, while I wouldn't do it, it can be done.

Who knows if it will work or not but I think its worth a try. My alternative is scrapping the truck. So far it looks like rod bearing caps and crank journals 1,2,5,6 are perfectly smooth. I am confident 3 will not have any problems as there is extremely small amounts of scoring. 4 I am worried about because the crank journal is scored and might not be salvageable but then again who knows.

TFRnoob · 07-16-2015, 01:35 AM

does anyone know how to take the main caps off or get to the main caps? I unbolted the 8 bolts that support the metal piece that has 3 large holes to access the rod caps and it will not come out. Do I need to take something else out? I hope the oil pump doesn't need to be taken out.

Diezel · 07-16-2015, 02:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cashmoney

As much as we joke, I watched a guy do a similar in frame rebuild on a diesel. Hand polished the crank with emory cloth even. All without pulling a single rod or unbolting the head. Ended up cranking out 700hp for a few years and several 11sec passes before the head gasket popped. Just saying, while I wouldn't do it, it can be done.

For all intents and purposes, the guy you watched. Knew what the heck he was doing. Building HP engines, comes with a cost that all of us gearheads are usually fully aware of.

OP: Write this engine off, it will be the BEST thing you can do. I can assure, having built numerous engines in my time. What you want to do, can be done. It's a matter of should it be done.

1: You don't know Any of the specs of the crank and rod bearings, now.
2: You have No idea all the nooks and crannies all that bearing metal went to.
3: The cost of parts, and Your time. Is easily and best spend elsewhere.

cashmoney · 07-16-2015, 08:46 AM

Didn't say he didn't but we all thought he was crazy and it wouldn't work either. Even cut his own valve reliefs in the pistons with them still in the motor. Crazy guy but the results speak for themselves. Reliable 10sec truck.

SpidermanGeek · 07-16-2015, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TFRnoob

Who knows if it will work or not but I think its worth a try. My alternative is scrapping the truck.

If the frame and body are solid/rustfree.. scrapping is not your only other option. I'm telling you, a lot of northerners probably have rusted out T4R's with strong drivetrains and are looking for a replacement chassis.

Although our Canadian dollar just took a crap again, you can probably still find NY/NJ buyers that'll pay at least 1k if the engine is the only thing that's shot.. which is better than what the scrapyard will give you.

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