[J.Graham]

Hi guys, a key & fob (remote) to my 3rd gen was recently stolen. Is it possible to delete it from the truck? Or is this something the dealer has to do? I realize the thief could still open it with the key but without the remote, the alarm would blast and I assume the truck wouldn't start.
Thanks in advance

[eimkeith]

Originally Posted by J.Graham

Hi guys, a key & fob (remote) to my 3rd gen was recently stolen. Is it possible to delete it from the truck? Or is this something the dealer has to do? I realize the thief could still open it with the key but without the remote, the alarm would blast and I assume the truck wouldn't start.
Thanks in advance

What year? on my '96 I just unplugged the alarm control unit under the driver's seat and threw the fob in the glove compartment. (I don't like carrying extra stuff around)

Worked for me.

[J.Graham]

It's a 99 limited. I still have one working fob and will purchase & program another one. But I need to remove the stolen remote from the alarm system so the thief can't disarm the alarm. Hoping there is a factory re-set that deletes all key fobs, then I can re-program the one I have and a new one.

[Brian.]

Assuming it's the Factory installed keyless (operates the rear window), then just follow any of the posted instructions on adding a new fob. Part of that process deletes all programmed and has you then add all you want to function.

Be aware, it's just keyless entry and not an alarm (the stock setup). If you have an alarm, then you have something Else going on. My '99 doesn't care one bit if I unlock with the fob or the key.

[eddielasvegas]

On my '01, the only way to reset the ECU to deprogram the remotes is at the dealership.

I was quoted about $200 to zero out the FOB codes. I passed.

Eddie

[J.Graham]

Originally Posted by Brian.

Assuming it's the Factory installed keyless (operates the rear window), then just follow any of the posted instructions on adding a new fob. Part of that process deletes all programmed and has you then add all you want to function.

Be aware, it's just keyless entry and not an alarm (the stock setup). If you have an alarm, then you have something Else going on. My '99 doesn't care one bit if I unlock with the fob or the key.

Thanks Brian.
Interesting... Yes it's the original factory installed keyless remotes that also control the rear window. I'm pretty sure the set-up is stock with a factory alarm.
I did add a remote a couple of years ago when one of the 2 originals finally died and I didn't have to re-add the other. I'll have to double-check the programming process and see if there's a "clear all remotes" function.

[J.Graham]

Originally Posted by eddielasvegas

On my '01, the only way to reset the ECU to deprogram the remotes is at the dealership.

I was quoted about $200 to zero out the FOB codes. I passed.

Eddie

Thanks Eddie.
Exactly what I'm wanting to do.. zero out all remote codes and add the one back that I still have. Hoping to avoid the dealership!

[Brian.]

Originally Posted by J.Graham

I did add a remote a couple of years ago when one of the 2 originals finally died and I didn't have to re-add the other. I'll have to double-check the programming process and see if there's a "clear all remotes" function.

Well, there is a way to do that too.... I'm digging for the info right now for the difference on the 2 modes, but there's a way to add new, and a way to erase all before adding new. I know this A) because I've seen it posted here, but more B) because I bought 1 fob just for testing first and got that working, then bought 2 more (for a total of 3) once I had it working and when I went to "add" the 2 new (without knowing there was a difference in programming) I ended up making the first fob non-operational and had to get back into programming mode to then just add all 3 at the same time.

There's no way for it to be done within Techstream (dealer software). The Keys can be handled from Techstream (erasing all but the one master used to enter the mode and then adding back new), but not the fobs. IMHO, that's the more important thing than the fobs. Don't really care if someone can get into the truck, more worried about them being able to just drive it off. Theft of convenience is just too tempting for too many people.


Edit...

Of course, 30 seconds after posting I find the info...

The vehicle should meet the following conditions before proceeding:
*The key is NOT in the ignition
*Driver’s door is OPEN (The others are CLOSED)
*Drivers door UNLOCKED (Not necessary for Echo)
1) INSERT and REMOVE the key from the ignition cylinder, TWICE within 5 seconds 2) CLOSE and OPEN the driver’s door TWICE within 40 seconds
3) INSERT and REMOVE the key into the ignition cylinder
4) CLOSE and OPEN the driver’s door TWICE within 40 seconds
5) INSERT the key in the ignition and CLOSE the driver’s door
6) Turn the ignition switch from LOCK to ON and back to LOCK at approx. 1 sec. Intervals “ 2” times to enter REWRITE MODE
7) REMOVE the key from the ignition (The door locks are cycled LOCK-UNLOCK within 3 seconds TWICE to let you know that you have selected REWRITE MODE)
8) Within 40 seconds press BOTH the LOCK & UNLOCK buttons on the transmitter simultaneously for 1 second (Press and release).
9) Within 3 seconds press and release the LOCK button on the same transmitter (The door locks will cycle ONCE if the transmitter was recognized and TWICE if it was not recognized {if you get two cycles start over}).
10) Within 40 seconds repeat step 8 and 9 with any other transmitters you wish to program
11) One of the following will END the Rewrite mode; *40 seconds elapses *Drivers door is opened *Key inserted into the ignition cylinder *4 transmitters are registered

Step #6 Options:

*1 time it's for add mode
*2 times for rewrite mode
*3 times for confirmation mode
*5 times for PROHIBITION mode

So, it's step 6 that allows you to change what you're doing with the remotes. No idea what confirmation or prohibition modes are/do, but rewrite mode is the one that deletes all existing and then allows you to program everything you have in hand.

[J.Graham]

Originally Posted by Brian.

Well, there is a way to do that too.... I'm digging for the info right now for the difference on the 2 modes, but there's a way to add new, and a way to erase all before adding new. I know this A) because I've seen it posted here, but more B) because I bought 1 fob just for testing first and got that working, then bought 2 more (for a total of 3) once I had it working and when I went to "add" the 2 new (without knowing there was a difference in programming) I ended up making the first fob non-operational and had to get back into programming mode to then just add all 3 at the same time.

There's no way for it to be done within Techstream (dealer software). The Keys can be handled from Techstream (erasing all but the one master used to enter the mode and then adding back new), but not the fobs. IMHO, that's the more important thing than the fobs. Don't really care if someone can get into the truck, more worried about them being able to just drive it off. Theft of convenience is just too tempting for too many people.


Edit...

Of course, 30 seconds after posting I find the info...


So, it's step 6 that allows you to change what you're doing with the remotes. No idea what confirmation or prohibition modes are/do, but rewrite mode is the one that deletes all existing and then allows you to program everything you have in hand.

Brian, you are a legend! Thank you

So… I just tested my theory regarding the key and the alarm. I thought that if I cleared the stolen key fob and someone opened the door with the key, it would set off the alarm (as their key fob, which locks the doors and sets the alarm, had been removed from the system). It doesn't. When I open the door with the key it automatically turns off the alarm. I guess I'll need to take it to the dealership and have new key cylinders & keys put in..?

[Brian.]

Originally Posted by J.Graham

I guess I'll need to take it to the dealership and have new key cylinders & keys put in..?

This is where it gets a little convoluted.... since we both have '99 Limited it should be the same for you as it was for me.

There are a few key possibilities split between physical cuts and what the car immobilizer sees. The 2 physical keys are normal (operates everything) and Valet (doesn't work in the glovebox). Doesn't matter if you have either of those, though if you have no reason to lock the glovebox from someone else with a key, I'd just get the dealer to cut you the Physical key from your VIN (or key code, if you have that).

That brings us to the digital side, the immobilizer. There are 2 keys here too, a Master and a Sub. These are strictly related to being able to program a new key or not (well, and work within Techstream, the dealer software, some functions need a Master key). You can identify those by what happens to the Security light just to the right of your rear window up/down switch. If the light goes out immediately when you put in a key, you have a Master. If it blinks another 2~3 times, you have a sub. With a Master key, you can erase all keys and program new again, thus deleting all old keys from the system. Someone with an old key could gain physical access, but the key will never start the vehicle.

This is where you get to decide your personal level of risk. Are you okay with someone being able to enter the vehicle? Then just have the keys programmed to remove the one that's missing. You *MUST* have a Master key to do this though. No Master key and you're looking at over a grand for the Dealer to get you a new key, ANY new key and somewhere in the $300~400 range for an independent locksmith to do the same (well, there's another option, cloning, that can be done for about $100 but that won't erase the one that's stolen).

If you're not okay with someone gaining easy access and just breaking a window instead, then yes, you'll want the tumblers re-keyed. I'd have an independent locksmith do that job though, just going to be cheaper and better to have someone who puts food on their table by working on locks, and Only locks, do the job rather than a line mechanic who does locks occasionally.


There are some DIY options in there too... if you're cheap, handy or just plain interested you can go the Techstream route for doing your own key programming (assuming a Master key) for about $20 and ethics that allow you to use software you didn't pay for. If you don't have a Master key, there is a way you can DIY a fix for that (I had to learn this myself, involves programming an EEPROM chip and some soldering), I think I had about $40 into that solution. And re-pinning locks is something common enough that there are thousands of youtube videos on it.



Forgot to say that I still don't know what Alarm you're referring to. The key fob is just a keyless entry, locking and unlocking doors, rolling down the rear window. That's all it does. And there's an Immobilizer system that disables the fuel pump (or ignition, I didn't dig that far) to keep the engine from starting when the key isn't recognized. I don't think there's anything else to it though, but I'm frequently wrong and still learning this vehicle.

[Rallysport]

I'm in the same boat with an RS3200 dealer installed alarm - can't add another remote. Im going to try the steps in post 8 and see where it gets me.

[Grizzly_a]

Good Stuff in this thread.

I recently bought a 2002 Limited with a single chip key and fob. Key and fob worked, but no other keys were included in the sale.

I bought a new chip key off amazon and was able to reprogram the chip key using the existing key (assuming master). I did not use any software, I just used the onboard system. Then I took the key to a locksmith and they cut it to match the original. (the new key isn't as worn as the original so it takes a little wiggling for the cylinders to line up)

I purchased another fob online, but I had a heck of a time programming the FOB, but the instructions say to turn the key twice, to get into rewrite mode. This worked, but I was only ever able to rewrite the single fob, not add another fob. I was able to program both fobs, but I always disabled one of them, not program them both. So I ended up with only 1 working fob.

To be honest, I was so frustrated with programming the fob, I gave up on it.
I took the truck into my local shop to do some unrelated work and asked them to program the fob since they specialize in Toyotas. After getting my truck back, they said they were unable to program the fob and recommended I take it to dealer for programming.

I then took it home and poured over the internet directions again. I then discovered the multiple options for the different modes. I then played with each one to see what it did. That's when I figured out you want to turn the key 1 time to add a new fob, not rewrite an existing fob.

I ended up deleting all the fobs by turning the key 5 times, and then was able to program the fobs by only turning the key once. I was able to add/program both fobs without issue, and they both work.

Confirmation mode just tells you how many fobs are programmed.


All the directions tell you to turn the key 2 times, but that never worked for me to add another fob. I watched the videos and did the process in step with the video, but the way they told me wasn't working. When I turned it 1 time, I was successful with adding both fobs. Your mileage may vary.

I deleted and re-added them a couple of times to prove that it worked. The end result is I have new keys, new fobs, and I was able to program them myself without going to a dealer.

(After all my attempts, my driver door lock actuator was pretty tired. I did have to manually assist my driver door latch up/down with one hand while working the lock/unlock button with the other. Replacing that will be a job for a different day)

[Brian.]

Originally Posted by Rallysport

I'm in the same boat with an RS3200 dealer installed alarm - can't add another remote. Im going to try the steps in post 8 and see where it gets me.

The RS3000 programming is different than the Factory installed system. This was the top search result for programming:

http://www.remotesremotes.com/v/vspf...ota/rs3000.pdf

And this is an archived link I found referenced in the top search result form our forums:

4Runners.org - How to Reprogram a RS3000 Remote

He goes on about not being able to find the "brain" in post '98, it's next to the steering column IIRC.

[eddielasvegas]

Were you able to add another remote?

I'm having fits trying to add another remote to my RS3200 in my '01.

Do you have a single red light in a pop out switch on the left side of your steering wheel?

Eddie

Originally Posted by Rallysport

I'm in the same boat with an RS3200 dealer installed alarm - can't add another remote. Im going to try the steps in post 8 and see where it gets me.