02-27-2015, 01:38 AM
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#1
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Cam and crank seals when replacing timing belt
Been searching thru some threads but couldnt find any specific info on how to pull out the old cam and crank seals and to put the new seals in when doing the timing belt/water pump. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
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02-27-2015, 04:07 AM
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#2
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just did my timing belt and misc parts after doing a lot of research and I was also afraid of getting stuck on the seal removal.
I did the drill -> wood screw (wide thread, shorter thread was harder to penetrate and grab) -> pull method that I read somewhere and worked perfectly for both seals.
The removal and insert in just few mins and go pick up a small pvc w/ matching diameter to help pushing them in.
Last edited by s20004runner; 02-27-2015 at 04:15 AM.
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02-27-2015, 04:14 AM
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#3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s20004runner
just did my timing belt and misc parts after doing a lot of research and I was also afraid of getting stuck on the seal removal too.
I did the drill -> wood screw (wide thread) -> pull method that I read somewhere and worked perfectly for both seals.
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So you drilled a screw into the seal and pulled it out? Then lubed up the new seal and pushed the new seal in, used a socket or something to push it in evenly? You did that to both the CAM and CRANK shaft seals?
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02-27-2015, 05:09 AM
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#4
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yes, just did it this past weekend. I drilled a small pilot hole first before screwing in a screw.
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02-27-2015, 10:48 AM
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#5
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I have used a drill and screw method before but found using this tool to be much easier and quicker:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Sh...le+seal+puller
Though I did not use it to remove the cam seals since my dealer did not stock them, the crank took about 20 seconds to take out:
Then after freezing the seal for an hour and putting some grease in the inner lip I tapped the new one in with a 5oz tack hammer.
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02-27-2015, 02:13 PM
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#6
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Yeah I have cam and crank seals brand new sitting in my garage, if you need them. When I got in there mine weren't leaking at all, so I avoided that headache. If there good don't mess with theM. If there leaking then you can replace them. The crank one is the easiest.
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02-27-2015, 03:07 PM
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#7
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I also looked to that same tool but couldn't get it delivered fast enough to when I wanted to do the job. Glad to know it worked.
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02-27-2015, 03:50 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macshemi57
Yeah I have cam and crank seals brand new sitting in my garage, if you need them. When I got in there mine weren't leaking at all, so I avoided that headache. If there good don't mess with theM. If there leaking then you can replace them. The crank one is the easiest.
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agreed.
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1985 4runner sr5 : 22RE/5spd-6" pro-comp suspension-37 BFG at's-5.29 gears-Badlands Basher bumper-8.5k RR winch.
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02-27-2015, 04:03 PM
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#9
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i don't agree with this. The seals are cheap and require the timing belt to be taken off. Why not do them at the same time? It's and extra what, 20-30min to do them if you're taking your sweet time. There's a good chance they'll start leaking before you need a new timing belt.
I use a pointed 90deg and carefully stab the seal, then pull it out. Tap new one in with oil and a big socket.
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02-27-2015, 04:32 PM
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#10
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Thanks guys for the info, hopefully i can get this done soon
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03-01-2015, 01:53 AM
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#11
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Is fipg needed any where?
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03-01-2015, 09:50 AM
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#12
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No..................
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05-22-2015, 08:21 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleCaesar
...Then after freezing the seal for an hour...
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You put seals in the freezer? Should I just keep them in there until I'm ready to install or is there a max freeze time?
By the way, Lil Caeser's tool works - this one does not: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-25014
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Last edited by azcat90; 05-23-2015 at 11:03 AM.
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05-26-2015, 08:39 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleCaesar
I have used a drill and screw method before but found using this tool to be much easier and quicker:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Sh...le+seal+puller
Though I did not use it to remove the cam seals since my dealer did not stock them, the crank took about 20 seconds to take out:
Then after freezing the seal for an hour and putting some grease in the inner lip I tapped the new one in with a 5oz tack hammer. |
this one I have also, have used it on BMW, Volvo, Toyota corolla...works great
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05-26-2015, 10:12 PM
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#15
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When putting the new seals in just go real slow, making sure it goes in evenly and all the way. Don't assume that because your using a large socket or piece of PVC, that it wont get cocked, especially when you're first driving it in.
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