[MandAtaco]

Wiring wasn't to bad, but I enjoy it. I planned out all my circuits running up to the switches and made me a harness. I wrapped everything with lacing chord and then ran it all at once. Makes for nice under dash electrical runs too.







For the 2 meter, I dropped the headliner and run the coax back to rear hatch through a grommet. I made up a quick bracket and welded it to the back of my rack. Reception seems good here.




Because the built in speaker is buried in the dash for my 2 meter, I added an external speaker. It really didn't fit anywhere so I took it apart and tucked it in the back of the cubby by the 12V outlets. I then popped out the screen and cut it down to cover to fit in the cubby and cover/protect the speaker. Makes for a out of the way install that still sounds decent for a cheap speaker.


I added a switch inline for the drivers side door light/door alarm push button. This way when I'm in camp I can "open" the switch, kill the door alarm and listen to some music! I did this in the taco and used it all the time! When the switch is "on", everything works totally factory.


This is what it currently looks like under the hood. Right now everything is just zip tied as I'm still running stuff. When I get closer to being done with all the electrical, I'll wire wrap everything and split loom it to keep it protected. This will work for now though.

[MandAtaco]

Been working on this guy the last couple weekends... Should have the main part final welded tomorrow!

[MandAtaco]

Bumper is done, mostly. LOL. I need to add a dual fuel can holder but I'm stoked how it turned out. We did about 200 miles this weekend over rocks, washboards, etc, and she held up great.











One thing I did learn this weekend though, is that the OME 891's are NOT going to cut it. I've got a set of LC 861's on the way now.

[JWaldz]

Dang, you've been busy with this rig! Keep up the good work.

Regarding the OME 891's, are the sagging under load? I have ran the 891's for years now with constant hundreds of lbs of load. No complaints here. I've see a lot of people complain about the sag but I guess I got a lucky pair that actually work the way they should. I'm beginning to think they may have changed something around with those springs. Hell, I bought mine back in late 2009.

[BrianSD_42]

After checking both times though, I noticed the drivers rear drum was tight. Temp gun confirmed my issue. I had to go through the backing plate to loosen it up enough to get it off both times

Sweet thread!

This issue kept happening to me as well. We ended up just removing the ability for the rear drum to auto-adjust itself. The way it was explained to me is sometimes the adjusters get so worn out and old they start to auto adjust themselves even if you didn't have them to0 tight. They are so old they will over adjust. That is how it was explained to me but I"m not a mechanic.

[MandAtaco]

Originally Posted by JWaldz

Dang, you've been busy with this rig! Keep up the good work.

Regarding the OME 891's, are the sagging under load? I have ran the 891's for years now with constant hundreds of lbs of load. No complaints here. I've see a lot of people complain about the sag but I guess I got a lucky pair that actually work the way they should. I'm beginning to think they may have changed something around with those springs. Hell, I bought mine back in late 2009.

My buddy has had 891's on his truck for several years too and said the same thing you said. I expected a rake when I put these on initially with no load, but didn't have any. They sat pretty even with the front, and I really don't have the front cranked up that high. As soon as I put the bumper and swing out on, the Runner went nose high. This last weekend I had 4 people and all our gear for a weekend in it and it dropped way out, the rear lower control arms were flat with the ground.

I don't know if they changed them or what, but I'm deff going to need something heavier. Hopefully the 861's will give me a little bit of rake with my bumper, so that I'll have some play to load up with gear, or hook my pop-up to it.

Originally Posted by BrianSD_42

Sweet thread!

This issue kept happening to me as well. We ended up just removing the ability for the rear drum to auto-adjust itself. The way it was explained to me is sometimes the adjusters get so worn out and old they start to auto adjust themselves even if you didn't have them to0 tight. They are so old they will over adjust. That is how it was explained to me but I"m not a mechanic.

So far, after I adjusted the E-brake at the drums and at the pull handle, they haven't tightned up on me. If it does it again, I may look into just pulling the auto adjusters out. It's convient to have, but if they don't work..... There was definitly an issue, pre adjustment. The whole cable system had tension on it even when released. The pull arms never actually rested on the back of the drums. Hopefully that was my issue.

Thanks for the compliments guys.

[shootmymime]

Originally Posted by MandAtaco

. The whole cable system had tension on it even when released. The pull arms never actually rested on the back of the drums. Hopefully that was my issue.



Thanks for the compliments guys.

so my question. Why does my driver side touch the backing plate yet my passenger is a bit away with the cable connecting them tight. It's almost like my cable connecting the two is not long enough. I need to get down there and look at them again.

[infamousRNR]

@MandAtaco

Hey when you build your adjustable pan hard bar what type of heims are you going to use.. I want to do the same thing with a spare pan hard bar I have but don't know how to go about buying the right adjustable heims and size heim.

Sweet taco and 4Runner too. She is coming along quickly!

[Dezert4Runner]

Nice swing out bumper. Can you tell me the metal thickness used and what you used to cut the plate? Any areas that were gusseted? Where did you source the swing out parts?

[scrapper]

We need a
"Let's see your T4R wheelies" thread!

I say we allow both power-wheelies (like this one) and clutching it up.
Best idea EVAH!!
Discuss.

[MandAtaco]

Originally Posted by shootmymime

so my question. Why does my driver side touch the backing plate yet my passenger is a bit away with the cable connecting them tight. It's almost like my cable connecting the two is not long enough. I need to get down there and look at them again.

Mine did the same thing. There is an adjustment on the pull handle itself to release some slack in the cable. Pull the center consul and its on the passenger side of the handle. Mine was too tight, almost like it was pulled up a couple clicks. Once I backed it off, the "cams" sat down on the backing plate like they should. There is a procedure in the FSM on how to adjust everything. When I get home I'll see if I can find the page again.

Originally Posted by infamousRNR

@MandAtaco

Hey when you build your adjustable pan hard bar what type of heims are you going to use.. I want to do the same thing with a spare pan hard bar I have but don't know how to go about buying the right adjustable heims and size heim.

Sweet taco and 4Runner too. She is coming along quickly!

I haven't done a ton of looking into this. My initial thought was to just cut the factory tube and run one of these: Forged Poly Bushing 1.75" OD with the corresponding threaded bung to weld into the tube. I measured everything out at one point and knew which one would fit; the factory track bar is .120 wall I believe. I’ll probably do some more research into this real soon.

Originally Posted by Dezert4Runner

Nice swing out bumper. Can you tell me the metal thickness used and what you used to cut the plate? Any areas that were gusseted? Where did you source the swing out parts?

The main part is 2x4” .120 wall. The frame mounts, which basically cup the frame rails are made out of 4”x .25” strap. All the parts of the bumper that directly support the swing out are made out of 3/16” plate and the side wings are made out of 1/8” plate. The front of the side wings (toward the tires) are tied into the front of the frame mounts to support the side wings.
I got the hinge from 4xinovations, a very nice sealed unit with bearings. If I ever build another one, I’d use the same hinge again.
Swing Out Tire Carrier Hinge Assembly

[MandAtaco]

Originally Posted by scrapper

We need a
"Let's see your T4R wheelies" thread!

I say we allow both power-wheelies (like this one) and clutching it up.
Best idea EVAH!!
Discuss.

LOL, I thought about Bro-ing it up for a minute!

[MTD]

Originally Posted by MandAtaco

Wiring wasn't to bad, but I enjoy it. I planned out all my circuits running up to the switches and made me a harness. I wrapped everything with lacing chord and then ran it all at once. Makes for nice under dash electrical runs too.

I did the same thing, best and worst decision ever. It speeds up a lot of the wiring time when I want to add something, but having a bunch of wires that goes to nothing just bugs me lol and now I am running out of places to tuck them

[ajonesnv]

Originally Posted by MandAtaco

.

Im pretty sure you're welcome for this ;)

[MandAtaco]

Spent most of the weekend working on getting my Puma compressor and 1000watt inverter in the side storage area. I pulled the inner tray out, lined the entire quarter/wheel well in some "poor mans Dynomat", and built some brackets to mount everything on. I think it's going to work pretty well back there.









The inverter and compressor are both switched from the dash. I'll add some remote 110v outlets later but this will get me some power for now. I still need to plumb the air side of the compressor and I'll add a blue sea fuse box and relays back there for lights and such.

I'm not to worried about air movement, I've probably never ran the inverter close to its max capacity (I've only ever heard the fan kick on a couple of times).

When I'm airing up my tires I'll pop the cover open for the compressor. On the trail, once it's built pressure in the system, it will run my locker all day long, so it shouldn't have a chance to build up heat there.