03-19-2015, 08:27 AM
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#1
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Why not OME 880/906? Talk me out of it.
Hey guys, love this site and all that I've learned from you all in the last 1.5 years. Greatly appreciate this community!
My fairly new-to-me 98 just hit 100k and I think it's time to replace the shocks. While considering shocks, I've thought, why not replace the coils as well. (Mine had the recalled rear shock work done in 03). I don't NEED lift, but don't mind a slight boost. My main hesitation in lifting: at this point in my life, I'm not looking to open a can of worms, lifting and creating a slew of other issues to deal with, i.e. driveline vibration, u-joints, cv boots, etc. (This happened on a Cherokee years back, was more than I bargained for).
From all the posts I've read, and I think I've read them all, it looks like the OME 880s in front and 906s in back, with Bilstein 5100s all the way around may be a good fit. Mild lift and very quality components. Wheeler's now sells 4Runner specific 5100s - apparently it's no longer just Tacoma or Tundra.
Here's what I'm looking for: based on the fact that I really just want upgraded components, don't need a lift, but don't mind one (so long as it doesn't lead to several other upgrades or repairs), tell me why I should NOT go with this set-up. Anybody in my shoes do this lift and regret it? Can I do this set-up without dropping the front diff or panhard bar?
I've also considered the 99 coils, but they're more pricey, and the lift seems pretty comparable. Or, just the 5100s with stock coils - though at 17 years old, it may be time to just swap those old coils out while I'm down there.
Thanks in advance for your input and advice!
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Current: 2007 4Runner Sport 4x4 V6 - 120,000 miles - stock for now...
Former: 1998 4Runner Limited 4x4 - 118,000 miles - TRD Tundra/5100 front, OME 906/5100 rear - Plastidipped exterior emblems - Black painted interior woodgrain
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03-19-2015, 04:38 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bspurs
Hey guys, love this site and all that I've learned from you all in the last 1.5 years. Greatly appreciate this community!
My fairly new-to-me 98 just hit 100k and I think it's time to replace the shocks. While considering shocks, I've thought, why not replace the coils as well. (Mine had the recalled rear shock work done in 03). I don't NEED lift, but don't mind a slight boost. My main hesitation in lifting: at this point in my life, I'm not looking to open a can of worms, lifting and creating a slew of other issues to deal with, i.e. driveline vibration, u-joints, cv boots, etc. (This happened on a Cherokee years back, was more than I bargained for).
From all the posts I've read, and I think I've read them all, it looks like the OME 880s in front and 906s in back, with Bilstein 5100s all the way around may be a good fit. Mild lift and very quality components. Wheeler's now sells 4Runner specific 5100s - apparently it's no longer just Tacoma or Tundra.
Here's what I'm looking for: based on the fact that I really just want upgraded components, don't need a lift, but don't mind one (so long as it doesn't lead to several other upgrades or repairs), tell me why I should NOT go with this set-up. Anybody in my shoes do this lift and regret it? Can I do this set-up without dropping the front diff or panhard bar?
I've also considered the 99 coils, but they're more pricey, and the lift seems pretty comparable. Or, just the 5100s with stock coils - though at 17 years old, it may be time to just swap those old coils out while I'm down there.
Thanks in advance for your input and advice!
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Well im not going to talk you out of it, as i dont have expierence with the 881/906 setup. But from what I understand the 906 rears are going to stiff, much stiffer than stock. With that said many people run them and love them, and i have 99 talls and the rear is soft and doesnt handle weight at all.
With this lift you will not have a problem with cv boots and other things. Its when you go 3in and above that causes the most strain on components. The 2in lift with 32s makes your 4runner very capable off road and still be enjoyable onroad so i say go for it.
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1999 sr5- Eibach front coils with bilstein 5100s bottom notch, rear toytec 3 in coils with boss shocks, 5 speed, elocker, tundra 17s, 285/70 goodyear wrangler duratracs, Sonoran steel adjustable trachard bar
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03-19-2015, 05:34 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2012
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Not sure where the stiff part comes with 906 coils. I run them and like the ride. It will ride like an empty pickup truck. You will love the coils though when you toss stuff in the back though. Can't comment on the front but I will be going with tundras personally. I don't have the v6 though.
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06 4runner 2uz Build Build Thread
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03-19-2015, 05:36 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Aug 2013
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I have the OME 906/881 coils with Tacoma front bilstein's
20mm ARB trim packers in the rear.
I Love the ride that the ome coils provide! a little stiffer than stock, feels a lot 'sportier' to me.
they actually hold weight in the back! compared to my stock coils which 100lbs would make the truck ride on the bumps stops LOL.
the 906 rear coils do not ride harsh at all imo, and off road they soak up the bumps much better than stock.
this lift is an awesome lift if the truck is a 'hybrid' do it all 4runner. And it will not affect the CV's.
I say dive into this lift with both feet. you'll love the newer sportier ride.
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1997 SR5 4WD 3RZ/5spd. Evergreen Pearl/Oak. Elocked. 4.56 Toyota Gearing. Full body resto/Custom 3 Stage "Tri-Coat" 751 paint job. 2.5" OME lift/w Bilstein Shocks. JAOS Spoiler. Duratracs. Custom Taco Rims. EBC Brakes. SS Braided lines. Marlin Crawler Trans & parts. Marlin HD clutch. URD short shift kit. 1st Gen Shift Knobs. MStudt's endlinks. JBA SS exhaust. LCE Headers. K&N. 140A CS144 alt. Big 3/4 wiring. Hella/PIAA Lighting. 2nd Gen Map Light Mod. Custom LED switchback DRL/Turnsignals. 32" Curved LED bar. Front Tint. A/D/S/ Stereo. SoundProofed. RangeRover seat swap. 99 Clears. A/C. PWR everthing. EastWood Frame coating. AMSOIL. Custom sleeping solution.
Last edited by 3rzrunner; 03-19-2015 at 05:39 PM.
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03-20-2015, 12:14 PM
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#5
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I welcome the stiffer ride, though some seem to suggest the 906 rear is way too stiff - it seems most of them were not running 5100s. Those with 5100s and the 906 rear seem happier.
I'm running 265/70/16 with no plans of larger tires and it seems most are happy with small lift and stock tire size - not too goofy looking.
Has anyone only done the 5100s all the way around with stock coils? I've also considered using the 5100s at stock height, or at the middle notch (1.25" lift) with stock springs, as my coils currently sit pretty level and don't seem shot. How does that affect ride quality?
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Current: 2007 4Runner Sport 4x4 V6 - 120,000 miles - stock for now...
Former: 1998 4Runner Limited 4x4 - 118,000 miles - TRD Tundra/5100 front, OME 906/5100 rear - Plastidipped exterior emblems - Black painted interior woodgrain
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03-20-2015, 12:59 PM
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#6
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Maybe another way to put the question:
What could potentially be negative about this set-up, aside from a stiffer ride (which may actually be a benefit)? It sounds like CVs and driveline should be fine. Any other repercussions to look out for, other than a sweet looking rig?
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Current: 2007 4Runner Sport 4x4 V6 - 120,000 miles - stock for now...
Former: 1998 4Runner Limited 4x4 - 118,000 miles - TRD Tundra/5100 front, OME 906/5100 rear - Plastidipped exterior emblems - Black painted interior woodgrain
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03-20-2015, 02:20 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rzrunner
I have the OME 906/881 coils with Tacoma front bilstein's
20mm ARB trim packers in the rear.
I Love the ride that the ome coils provide! a little stiffer than stock, feels a lot 'sportier' to me.
they actually hold weight in the back! compared to my stock coils which 100lbs would make the truck ride on the bumps stops LOL.
the 906 rear coils do not ride harsh at all imo, and off road they soak up the bumps much better than stock.
this lift is an awesome lift if the truck is a 'hybrid' do it all 4runner. And it will not affect the CV's.
I say dive into this lift with both feet. you'll love the newer sportier ride.
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Did you need panhard bar relocation bracket or an adjustable bar to keep your rear centered?
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03-20-2015, 02:24 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike85
Did you need panhard bar relocation bracket or an adjustable bar to keep your rear centered?
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I don't have the drop bracket or an adjustable bar, but I COULD use one.
my truck drives fine, and has been 4 wheel computer aligned, but when the truck is parked you can visibly see that the rear axel is slightly off.
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1997 SR5 4WD 3RZ/5spd. Evergreen Pearl/Oak. Elocked. 4.56 Toyota Gearing. Full body resto/Custom 3 Stage "Tri-Coat" 751 paint job. 2.5" OME lift/w Bilstein Shocks. JAOS Spoiler. Duratracs. Custom Taco Rims. EBC Brakes. SS Braided lines. Marlin Crawler Trans & parts. Marlin HD clutch. URD short shift kit. 1st Gen Shift Knobs. MStudt's endlinks. JBA SS exhaust. LCE Headers. K&N. 140A CS144 alt. Big 3/4 wiring. Hella/PIAA Lighting. 2nd Gen Map Light Mod. Custom LED switchback DRL/Turnsignals. 32" Curved LED bar. Front Tint. A/D/S/ Stereo. SoundProofed. RangeRover seat swap. 99 Clears. A/C. PWR everthing. EastWood Frame coating. AMSOIL. Custom sleeping solution.
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03-20-2015, 02:27 PM
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#9
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Go for it dude. I bought 5100s and 881/906 about 3 weeks ago and plan on installing tomorrow. Everything I've researched on here says this is a great lift for my wants/needs (DD, light offroad).
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03-20-2015, 03:18 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bspurs
Maybe another way to put the question:
What could potentially be negative about this set-up, aside from a stiffer ride (which may actually be a benefit)? It sounds like CVs and driveline should be fine. Any other repercussions to look out for, other than a sweet looking rig?
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Your ball joints and tie rods will be stressed a little bit more, but nothing terrible since it doesn't seem like you off-road much. Just keep an eye on them to make sure they are not leaking grease. Once that starts to happen it's about time to change them out. Or if you start to develop play or vibration in the steering wheel.
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03-20-2015, 03:28 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rzrunner
I don't have the drop bracket or an adjustable bar, but I COULD use one.
my truck drives fine, and has been 4 wheel computer aligned, but when the truck is parked you can visibly see that the rear axel is slightly off.
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So with just a 2" lift, your rear axle is off? What are the implications of that? Doesn't seem like that should happen with such a mild lift...
__________________
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Current: 2007 4Runner Sport 4x4 V6 - 120,000 miles - stock for now...
Former: 1998 4Runner Limited 4x4 - 118,000 miles - TRD Tundra/5100 front, OME 906/5100 rear - Plastidipped exterior emblems - Black painted interior woodgrain
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03-20-2015, 10:51 PM
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#12
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This is a good thread for me. I've come around to the same line of thought as the OP.
Do you guys have a part number for the particular Bilstein you are running?
I've been considering the OME complete kit Complete OME suspension for 96-02 4Runner
Anyone have experience with the OME kit?
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'96 4Runner Limited daily driver
Front: OME 2881 / 90004
Rear: OME 891 / Bilstein 5100s
Stockers w/ 265/75/16 Cooper ATPs
ARB, CB, Firestik, Silencer Delete, Plastidip!
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03-20-2015, 11:00 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bspurs
So with just a 2" lift, your rear axle is off? What are the implications of that? Doesn't seem like that should happen with such a mild lift...
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well, my truck is a 4cyl so it is lighter and I have 20mm/.7'' of ARB trim packers in the back, and I also don't carry my spare around town
so that mean I am at almost a 3" rear lift, the axel being slightly off like mine is no problem.... I wouldn't worry about it...
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1997 SR5 4WD 3RZ/5spd. Evergreen Pearl/Oak. Elocked. 4.56 Toyota Gearing. Full body resto/Custom 3 Stage "Tri-Coat" 751 paint job. 2.5" OME lift/w Bilstein Shocks. JAOS Spoiler. Duratracs. Custom Taco Rims. EBC Brakes. SS Braided lines. Marlin Crawler Trans & parts. Marlin HD clutch. URD short shift kit. 1st Gen Shift Knobs. MStudt's endlinks. JBA SS exhaust. LCE Headers. K&N. 140A CS144 alt. Big 3/4 wiring. Hella/PIAA Lighting. 2nd Gen Map Light Mod. Custom LED switchback DRL/Turnsignals. 32" Curved LED bar. Front Tint. A/D/S/ Stereo. SoundProofed. RangeRover seat swap. 99 Clears. A/C. PWR everthing. EastWood Frame coating. AMSOIL. Custom sleeping solution.
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03-21-2015, 12:02 AM
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#14
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This week I installed 906 rears and 99 talls for the front, easy swap, took 2.5 hours with a 2 post car lift. Used my existing Bilstein 4600s, which had about 20K miles on a 1996 269K mile 4Runner. The lighter 3RZ 4 cylinder enabled me to gain almost 2 inches in the front to create an equal lift all the away around.
Sure the 906s are somewhat stiffer but a much improved ride over the poor stock springs. Very impressed with the 99 fronts, especially the initial impact over a bump is vastly improved. When I first installed the 4600s, I wasnt impressed. Now it rides fantastic with the new springs. So if you have high miles on your coils, I suggest replacing both shocks and coils at once!
Also I loaded up about 350 lbs in the back and wow, what a difference over the saggy stockers.
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03-21-2015, 08:09 AM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtndave
This week I installed 906 rears and 99 talls for the front
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What made you go with 99s in front, rather than something like the OME 880? Or, why not 99s all the way around? Does the 906 rear give you extra strength under load compared to the 99, while getting the on-road comfort of the oem 99s?
__________________
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Current: 2007 4Runner Sport 4x4 V6 - 120,000 miles - stock for now...
Former: 1998 4Runner Limited 4x4 - 118,000 miles - TRD Tundra/5100 front, OME 906/5100 rear - Plastidipped exterior emblems - Black painted interior woodgrain
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