Working on the Aisin manual hub lock conversion.

Removing those pesky conewashers is proving to be quite the challenge. I've acquired a brass punch approximately the same diameter as the nut that secures the washer down. I gave them a lengthy pb blast session and soak (for days.)

Backing the nut on the end of the stud until it was flush, I gave it multiple solid wacks, working my way around to different studs around the hub. It is my understanding that this is the proper method to remove these things even when they're rusted on there good. However, the only thing I have to show for it so far is a brass punch with mushroomed ends and brass glazed nuts and stud ends.

I've also tried backing one nut against another on a stud in an attempt to unscrew the stud out of it's seat without any luck thus far.



The culprits

Give the sides of the hub body near each stud a few solid whacks with a BFH and they should pop right out.

Thanks for the tip. I've already tried this without any luck. I actually gave a slight deformation/ding on the body by doing this.

Yea, you'll end up denting up the aluminum with every hit it takes, but it really is the only way to get them out without it taking forever, the only other option is whacking the end of the stud with your brass punch until it finally pops loose, there's a chance it never will too.

Yeah I was afraid of that. I was looking for a way to get it done without trashing the hub body. I think I'll save that as my last resort when I'm too fed up with the other methods (probably sooner rather than later.) Next I think I'll try a propane torch to see if some heat cycles might help to break anything loose. It'll be a couple days before I can get to my torch though.

I'm certainly open to more suggestions.

I did those on my old 86' pickup. What a pain in the rear. Took 3 days of soaking with PB Blaster,then a small chisel in the gap and they came out. PITA!!

And according to the service manual...

SA-32.pdf

I have removed those cone washers many times and the best method seems to be hitting the end of the studs with a brass punch. When I put them back on I use anti seize.

Well I don't have to deal with the electrolysis you east coaster have, but I've had a few stubborn ones. My hubs are dinged up pretty bad because of it. I don't have anything new to add, but like stubborn ball joints and tie rod ends, I find the BFH is the answer, no toy hammers please!

Never done it, but this video seems pretty good

How to Remove & Replace a Toyota 4x4 Manual Locking Hub: https://youtu.be/3djqDPYI9tM

I'd love to see the whole project as I want manual hubs too!

Courtesy of @Singtoe , this is the writeup to follow: AISIN Manual locking hubs

Thanks and sorry, to answer your original question, you should soak those down with liquid wrench and come back a few hours later - then your brass drift trick should work.

Liquid wrench works better than PB blaster? Soaked them for days using that.

I like the liquid wrench better myself but lots of people like PB - for $3 it's worth it to have both I guess.