Quote:
Originally Posted by 96pearlrunner
why dont you do it through the top if you cant remove the skid plate?
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Exactly - you can do it this way.
I hope you didn't drive too far with no coolant - would hate to see engine damage.
Now as far as the bolts, I have run across this on so many vehicles but specifically on 4runners and tacomas.
FIRST - if the bolts are not broken off like I see often, then you still have a decent chance to get them off with no more drilling/tapping ahead of you
- Use heat - even if you only use a propane torch it'll help (you'll see why shortly) you want to heat up and cool down the bolts at least 3-8 times with penetrating oil in between.
BEWARE - many of these trucks have lots of oil build up and you can cause a fire using a torch.
Then, you want to "shock" the bolts, hit them straight on with a big hammer - HARD - if your bolts are really stripped ( if they are not at this point - strip them now) - then what I do is get an 11mm socket and an extension (try to use a 1/2" drive impact socket) and use your big hammer to pound it on - at this point it really helps if you have an impact gun but it's not 100% needed - what is crucial is that you keep the socket square and pull straight when pulling your breaker bar/ratchet - its best to plan your angle because you will get the most torque on your first pull. If you are lucky it'll come out - if you're not, the bolt will break, either way you can proceed with the rad job and then if you need you can move to the next step. I've successfully used this procedure for over 20 years and it almost never fails, either the bolt will come out or the head will come off.
What I just did on mine was this.
Mine were broken off already so I only needed to get the broken portion out - after a few heating/cooling cycles with PB blaster in between (I actually favor "liquid wrench") you can drill them - use a 1/8" COBALT drill bit and drill slowly but with as much pressure as you can exert on the drill - DO center punch the hole first - if you are drilling properly, you will see a "string" or swirl of metal coming out of the bolt as you drill (this is called the "swarf") Once you drill it through, go up a few sizes until you reach the proper diameter for the 8mmx1.25 tap you will be using.
On my truck there were 3 broken bolts and the front was zip tied and only really held in front by the tabs.
Now the cool part, as I started tapping the holes - TWO of the bolts started screwing in further and almost ended up falling inside the frame - I then reversed the tap and the the bolts came right out - this was surely due to the heating and cooling with the liquid wrench.
The last one, I had to re-tap the hole but it was really no big deal.