I thought so. I just put the same thing on mine. The marks will make it easy to be sure everything is lined up properly.

Also use an OEM t-stat (#90916-03075), not the Gates in the picture:
OEM vs. Aftermarket surprise. Thermostat

Thanks! If I'm going to bury a part that deep it better work - I'll pick up a Toyota part.

So the crank was/is off a couple teeth and as i was trying to pull off the crank timing pulley to change the crank seal, I chipped part of it off with my screwdriver.



So...

A. Do I now need to replace the crank pulley?

B. How do i get it off to replace the seal?

Yes, the little teeth is what is read by the crank sensor. Costs about $60. Dealer only item.

Lots of PB blaster, then take a small hammer (think 5oz rock hammer) and hit it on all sides. Taking the key way out of the crank would probably help, so soak it as well.

Thanks - what do you mean by taking the key way out?

Metal thing on crank sticking out and up a little on the left. That's the keyway.

Picture looks like it's pretty rusted, been leaking for a while. Make sure you clean it up good when you put it back together, I typically use emory cloth.

So my original question - the last pic shows that the engine was running with the crankshaft 2 teeth off of top dead center when both cams are at top dead center - is that possible?

You sure the cams were at TDC as well? 1 Tooth would make it run really rough, I don't know about 2 teeth. You know if you are one tooth off just by starting it after putting new belt on.

Yes, replace the oil cooler hoses down by the filter. If that fails you are walking. And they live a hard life as they are right next to the exhaust manifold.

And pull the plugs. Makes it much easier to turn the crank and align the timing marks.

Yes it can. At 285k I can believe it. Line up the marks correctly, pull the tensioner pin, then rotate the engine to make sure the marks line up as they are supposed to.

If the engine is that far out of sequence, don't be surprised if you hear some different sounds. Checking the valve clearance may be necessary sooner than later, maybe not.

OK thanks again guys (I assume you're all guys - call me sexist) for all the info.

Napa guy said I should replace the oil pump? gasket when I replace the crank seal and then sold me an oil pan gasket since I would have to have the oil pan off to get to it.

So I got under it with my 10 mm socket and then quickly realized that I am a sucker and/or the Napa guy is short on 5VZFE 4WD know-how.

So can I get away with pulling the crank timing pulley off and replacing the crank seal from there? Is it accessible from there?

I'm searching for threads.

That's how you replace the crank oil seal. Honestly, I would only use a Toyota OEM part for that. It would suck to redo all your work, or get oil on the belt.

I had a recent experience with NAPA, don't get me wrong I like NAPA a lot. I had to replace my AC idler pulley. I went to NAPA, and they sold me one that made a lot of noise just by spinning it on my finger. I went back, and they showed me 3 different parts for the same part #! Never opened, all were a little different from diameter size to internal diameter size that you put the bolt through. The owner was perplexed when I showed him the difference between all 3.

For something this critical that you want to last, go with OEM only. Just my .02

How - from under the pulley or do I need to remove the oil pan?

Remove crank timing pulley, the crank oil seal is behind it.