08-12-2015, 12:40 AM
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#31
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: SoCal H.B.
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Location: SoCal H.B.
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i fall into the newb category and this thread saved me from being horribly redundant.... thank you for the info!!!
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2000 Limited 4x4: pretty stock except Optima Battery and 231 Tundra Brakes... working on rest!
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08-20-2015, 02:09 AM
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#32
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Age: 34
Posts: 918
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Age: 34
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why do you suggest wheel spacers when one could get wheels with proper backspacing and be safer and have 24 less bolts to worry about?
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08-20-2015, 12:09 PM
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#33
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: KY 270
Posts: 155
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4runner2002
why do you suggest wheel spacers when one could get wheels with proper backspacing and be safer and have 24 less bolts to worry about?
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With all due respect, I imagine that is because wheel spacers are probably a lot more affordable for some people that are trying to ball on a budget.
I have wheel spacers, wish I had better wheels to fit the setup I have, but I'm fine with rocking those for the time being. I've even got some of those on a car that I race from time to time. Sometimes they're a necessary evil .
Last edited by t4r92; 08-24-2015 at 11:23 AM.
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08-24-2015, 02:01 PM
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#34
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Member
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Virginia
Posts: 107
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Location: Virginia
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Absalom--I have a 1999, SR-5 (278800 miles) and have added an ARB front bumper. I think your Dailey Driver/Pavement Bias is what I need. I need your opinion on the following questions:
1--How do I compensate for the weight of the ARB bumper?
2--Do I need to buy new 99 talls?
3--Is the upgrade to Tundra brakes worth the cost?--not your opic, I know, but I appreciate your opinion.
I tried to ask these questions in a post (Daily Drive Suspension and got referred to your post and then to OME parts--I can only afford to do this one time. Thank you your help.
Ken
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08-24-2015, 03:14 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Tempe, Az
Posts: 1,557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DED&DED
Absalom--I have a 1999, SR-5 (278800 miles) and have added an ARB front bumper. I think your Dailey Driver/Pavement Bias is what I need. I need your opinion on the following questions:
1--How do I compensate for the weight of the ARB bumper?
2--Do I need to buy new 99 talls?
3--Is the upgrade to Tundra brakes worth the cost?--not your opic, I know, but I appreciate your opinion.
I tried to ask these questions in a post (Daily Drive Suspension and got referred to your post and then to OME parts--I can only afford to do this one time. Thank you your help.
Ken
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you could get the tundra bilstein shocks and use them to boost up the front, plus you gain a bit more travel.
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'02 Toyota 4Runner SR5
E-Locked | Geared | Mid-Travel | 35s | Armored | 100% Chooched
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08-24-2015, 04:09 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: PNW
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Absalom, is there any chance you could be convinced to add a section about bump-stops when doing a lift? I know that is opening up a whole new can o'worms Maybe its own new thread?
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I have a 9" body lift.
Shooter's Build
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09-02-2015, 04:52 PM
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#37
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Join Date: Oct 2012
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Thanks for the overview Absolam nice write up, now let me work my way through some possible solutions
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09-14-2015, 09:42 PM
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#38
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Denver
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Why do we avoid E rated tires?
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09-15-2015, 12:43 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Delft, Netherlands
Age: 18
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Real Name: Jordan
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Location: Delft, Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bijan
Why do we avoid E rated tires?
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Our trucks don't weigh near enough to justify the extra load carrying capacity that these tires offer. What we end up with is, a stiff ride, with heavy tires. E rated tires are more expensive, less compliant, less comfortable than D or C rated tires. They do hold an incredible amount of weight though, it's pretty astonishing how capable they are in the right application.
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09-15-2015, 03:29 PM
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#40
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by absalom
Our trucks don't weigh near enough to justify the extra load carrying capacity that these tires offer. What we end up with is, a stiff ride, with heavy tires. E rated tires are more expensive, less compliant, less comfortable than D or C rated tires. They do hold an incredible amount of weight though, it's pretty astonishing how capable they are in the right application.
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Its too bad that most of the A/T and M/T tires that are offered to me are E-rated. How much of a noticeable difference is it from C or D load?
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1999 4Runner 4x4 Limited. - SOLD
2002 4runner 4x4 Limited - SS 1.2 Lift. 265/75/16 Toyo AT2s LT, K&N Drop In, 231MM Tundra Brakes, Pioneer Headunit Upgrade, ROLA Roofrack.
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09-15-2015, 03:40 PM
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#41
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2012
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It's also worth pointing out that running a proper pressure is important. I prefer 30 psi and no more
Last edited by absalom; 09-18-2015 at 03:43 PM.
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09-15-2015, 03:43 PM
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#42
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: 22 miles south of Purgatory
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I have e rated ST Maxx's and they are the shiznit. Not too heavy at all and flex great. Is there any d rated tire that has a 3ply sidewall anyway. I think that should be important to be on the list for "trail boss" or whatever. It's essentially tire armor. Built well enough that a 3 ply sidewall tire doesn't bog down the ride. I mean a more robustly built rig is going to handle heavier tires better as mine now does. Nothing harsh about these e rated tires, truck rides better than my tundra.
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00' Highlander, no longer stock
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09-15-2015, 05:13 PM
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#43
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Mar 2010
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E loads work fine if you keep them at 20psi or always towing 6000lb plus of weight. Other than that yes, they are stiff and not needed.
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1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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09-18-2015, 01:51 PM
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#44
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fit4Action
Its too bad that most of the A/T and M/T tires that are offered to me are E-rated. How much of a noticeable difference is it from C or D load?
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It's substantial, to the point that'd I avoid all E loads in the future. Check out Yokohama and Treadwright.
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10-19-2015, 06:56 PM
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#45
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Long Island, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by absalom
I've created the following "4runner Recipe Book" in response to an increasing number of PM's. I have received many questions asking for advice and input on building up a 1996-2002 Toyota 4runner. The question usually goes something like this: "I have saggy OEM coils, with spacers front and back. My 33" tires rub like crazy. What should I begin replacing??". I've developed a series of easily replicable cookie cutter builds. We'll cover build ups for all walks of life, all driving styles, and more importantly, all wallet sizes! Without further ado, let's jump right in!
Budget OEM Refresh
This build path would suit someone who just bought their first 4runner used. This person might be unsure of the truck's maintenance history. It tackles important, simple upkeep items, before delving into the suspension and tires. The user will end up with a very smooth running, reliable, semi-capable truck. Lighter trails, long road trips, daily errands -- all tackled with ease, just as Toyota designed. - New OEM lower ball joints
---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
- New radiator - not brand specific
- Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
- Brake fluid
- Engine oil
- Power steering fluid
- Differential fluid
- Coolant flush
- New OEM-style rubber steering bushings
- New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
- New aftermarket sway bar bushings front and rear
- Used 99 Tall Coils front and rear
- New OEM Shocks/Struts
- New 265/70/16 highway terrain or all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)
Daily Driver/Weekend Warrior - Pavement Bias
The DD/WW build is aimed at folks who spend the majority of their time on pavement, but frequently take their trucks off-roading on the weekends. Great for a family that enjoys camping, a traveling salesperson, or a hunter. Using premium OEM components where applicable, drivers can rest assured they're getting the best quality on road. - New OEM lower ball joints
- New OEM radiator
- New OEM inner and outer tie rods
- New OEM upper and lower control arm bushings
- Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
- Brake fluid
- Engine oil
- Power steering fluid
- Differential fluid
- Coolant flush
- Energy Suspension poly steering bushings
- New OEM sway bar links front and rear
- New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear
- New OEM 99 Tall Coils front and rear
- New OEM Shocks/Struts
- New 265/70/16 highway terrain or all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)
Daily Driver/Weekend Warrior - Trail Bias
This variant of the DD/WW build is geared towards drivers who desire a slightly more aggressive look and the extra traction of off-road tires. Great for the guy who loves bombing fire roads, medium difficulty trails, or towing a small boat. Using premium OEM components where applicable, drivers can rest assured this build will outlast most any other on this list. - New OEM lower ball joints
- New OEM radiator
- New OEM inner and outer tie rods
- New OEM upper and lower control arm bushings
- Complete fluid change and timing belt replacement
- Brake fluid
- Engine oil
- Power steering fluid
- Differential fluid
- Coolant flush
- Energy Suspension poly steering bushings
- New OEM sway bar links front and rear
- New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear
- New OEM 99 Tall Coils front and rear
- New OEM Shocks/Struts
- New 265/75/16 all-terrain or mud-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)
- 1/2" Body lift
Budget Trail Crawler
The 4runner is an astonishingly capable truck in stock form. Bolting on a well sorted, moderate lift only serves to enhance it's technical trail prowess. This build is a more affordable version of the bread and butter lift for the 3rd gen, as seen below. Repeated 1000's of times, it rarely disappoints and is guaranteed to get it's owner through all but the most technical trails. It's also a build with some trade-offs. The truck's center of gravity will be raised, it's acceleration reduced, it's braking power diminished, and it's on road comfort affected. Long distance driving tends to become more tedious and fuel stops more common. Take the truck off-road and it all starts to make sense. Rear articulation is nearly unlimited and obstacles seem less intimidating than before. - New OEM lower ball joints
---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
- New radiator - not brand specific
- Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
- Brake fluid
- Engine oil
- Power steering fluid
- Differential fluid
- Coolant flush
- New Energy Suspension poly steering bushings
- New aftermarket sway bar links - front
- DIY Extended rear sway bar links - rear
- New aftermarket sway bar bushings front and rear
- Used 2002-2004 Toyota Tundra TRD front springs (paint color code - yellow yellow, yellow blue)
- New Bilstein 5100's for Toyota Tundra (set to 2nd perch)
- Used 1991-1996 Toyota Land Cruiser front springs
- New Monroe Sens-a-Trac 91-96 Land Cruiser rear shocks
- DIY Adjustable panhard bar
- New 285/75/16 mud-terrain or all-terrain tires
- Avoid E load rating tires if possible
- Always mount with Road Force balancing machine
- Choose All-Terrains for snowy, icy, and sandy terrain
- Choose Mud-Terrains for rocky, muddy, and loose snow terrain
- 1" Body lift
Bread and Butter Build
In this build, we open up the purse strings a little more to create the true 4runner Bread and Butter Build. Copied a million times over, this build will provide many years of reliable service. Sure, there are more civilized directions to take (we'll touch on those next) but few other builds provide the capability that this does for this price. - New OEM lower ball joints
- New OEM radiator
- New OEM inner and outer tie rods
- New OEM lower control arm bushings
- Complete fluid change and timing belt replacement
- Brake fluid
- Engine oil
- Power steering fluid
- Differential fluid
- Coolant flush
- Energy Suspension poly steering bushings
- New Light Racing (SPC) upper control arms
- New MDT extended sway bar links front
- New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear
- DIY Extended rear sway bar links - rear
- New or Used 2002-2004 Toyota Tundra TRD front springs (paint color code - yellow yellow, yellow blue)
- New Bilstein 5100's for Toyota Tundra (set to 2nd perch)
- New Toytec Superflex rear springs
- New Toytec Bilsteins matched to above springs - rear
- Sonoran Steel or Toytec or DIY Adjustable panhard bar
- New 285/75/16 mud-terrain or all-terrain tires
- New 1-1.5" wheel spacers
- New 285/75/16 mud-terrain or all-terrain tires
- Avoid E load rating tires if possible
- Always mount with Road Force balancing machine
- Choose All-Terrains for snowy, icy, and sandy terrain
- Choose Mud-Terrains for rocky, muddy, and loose snow terrain
- 1" Body lift
The Ultimate
The name of this build is something of a misnomer. The build itself will not leave you with a class leading trophy truck, nor will it give Ferrari a run for it's money. I call it the ultimate because I believe it represents what these trucks should be. Simply put, completely capable in all categories: no more, no less. I set out to create a truck that would be equally at home bombing down a desert trail at 80 mph as it would be escorting your teenage daughter to her first prom. A truck that creates lasting memories and takes us to places we never thought possible, with those closest to us. These trucks represent so much more than just four chunks of rubber and a heap of metal. Let's give them the respect they deserve and build them to their fullest potential. - New OEM lower ball joints
- New OEM radiator
- New OEM inner and outer tie rods
- New OEM lower control arm bushings
- Complete fluid change and timing belt replacement
- Brake fluid
- Engine oil
- Power steering fluid
- Differential fluid
- Coolant flush
- New/used TRD Supercharger with supporting mods
- Energy Suspension poly steering bushings
- New Light Racing (SPC) upper control arms
- New MDT extended sway bar links front
- New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear
- DIY Extended rear sway bar links - rear
- New King or Icon or FOA or Fox 2.5" Shocks
- New King or Icon or FOA or Fox 2.5" Coilovers w/ springs
- New King or Icon or FOA or Fox bumpstops - front/rear
- New Toytec Superflex rear springs
- Sonoran Steel or Toytec or DIY Adjustable panhard bar
- Rebuilt 4.88 3rd member/clamshell from ECGS - front and rear
- New 285/75/16 mud-terrain or all-terrain tires
- New 1-1.5" wheel spacers
- New 285/75/16 mud-terrain or all-terrain tires
- Avoid E load rating tires if possible
- Always mount with Road Force balancing machine
- Choose All-Terrains for snowy, icy, and sandy terrain
- Choose Mud-Terrains for rocky, muddy, and loose snow terrain
- 1" Body lift
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Very useful thanks! Wish i came across that when i just had mine
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