12-10-2019, 04:41 PM
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#196
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Member
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Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 580
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by varol1
Thanks - per my post, the LBJs were replaced recently. I'll inspect the LCAs for any cracking but since I'm not doing much wheeling, will probably skip the reinforcements. Which manufacturer do folks recommend for the aftermarket sway bar links and bushings?
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sorry i missed that. if your car is lifted get adjustable ones. my sways are at terrible angles with a 3" lift. there is a user on here who makes them. I need to hit him up. i think his name is mstudt or something very similar.
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99 4runner limited; imperial jade mica
IG: mesooohoppy
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06-07-2020, 06:54 PM
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#197
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Member
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 72
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by absalom
The Jack of All Trades -- Brand New!- New OEM lower ball joints
---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
- New radiator - Denso (the Taiwanese units seem acceptable)
- Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
- Brake fluid
- Engine oil
- Power steering fluid
- Differential fluid
- Coolant flush
- New Energy steering rack bushings
- New Whiteline lower control arm bushings
- New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
- New aftermarket sway bar bushings front and rear
- New 99 Tall Coils front (Moogs are perfectly acceptable here)
- New OME 906 rear springs
- New KYB Shocks/Struts
- New 265/70/16 highway terrain or all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)
- Full under-body armor kit (many vendors available)
- Rock sliders (4xInnovations are a great budget option)
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I finally got around to finishing this build, excluding the aftermarket bushings and sway bar links, a few months ago. While the lift looks fantastic with virtually no rake, the ride comfort is more harsh than with the original (200k+ miles) worn-out OEM suspension. I feel every single imperfection on highway roads and do everything in my power to avoid the slightest of cracks on local roads as it jostles the entire vehicle. Is this expected? I would have thought going with KYB would offer a more tolerable ride than Bilsteins.
I've had the entire steering rack (includes inner tie rods), outer tie rods, LBJs, and CVs replaced with OEM. I'm to the point where I'm willing to pay a shop again to swap out struts/shocks and/or springs to get a better ride quality.. that said, I'm hoping there's something else that can be done to improve quality short of going to those lengths.
Thanks in advance.
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06-11-2020, 01:26 PM
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#198
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Delft, Netherlands
Age: 18
Posts: 2,049
Real Name: Jordan
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Delft, Netherlands
Age: 18
Posts: 2,049
Real Name: Jordan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by varol1
I finally got around to finishing this build, excluding the aftermarket bushings and sway bar links, a few months ago. While the lift looks fantastic with virtually no rake, the ride comfort is more harsh than with the original (200k+ miles) worn-out OEM suspension. I feel every single imperfection on highway roads and do everything in my power to avoid the slightest of cracks on local roads as it jostles the entire vehicle. Is this expected? I would have thought going with KYB would offer a more tolerable ride than Bilsteins.
I've had the entire steering rack (includes inner tie rods), outer tie rods, LBJs, and CVs replaced with OEM. I'm to the point where I'm willing to pay a shop again to swap out struts/shocks and/or springs to get a better ride quality.. that said, I'm hoping there's something else that can be done to improve quality short of going to those lengths.
Thanks in advance.
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This certainly doesn't mirror my experience at all. I'm thinking there might be something missing. Thankfully you're in Golden, so we can get to the bottom of this together. Shoot me a text with your username @ 303. seven46. 993eight
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06-23-2020, 12:14 AM
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#199
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Junior Member
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Join Date: May 2020
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 10
Real Name: Joe C
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 10
Real Name: Joe C
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Your a 4R gawd for this man. Thanks a million ! This is why I created an account here
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06-25-2020, 01:05 AM
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#200
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 1
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How much would it cost (ballpark) to do The Jack of All Trades in one go? I'm planning to buy a 3rd Gen 4runner 2WD soon and the exterior looks great besides some clear coat peel on the hood, but I don't think he's done any big replacements (timing belt, radiator etc.) Its at 170k miles for $3.8k
New OEM lower ball joints
New Tie Rod Ends
New Radiator
New Timing Belt / Water Pump + All the other parts recommended to replace while replacing the timing belt
Brake fluid
Engine oil
Power steering fluid
Differential fluid
Coolant flush
New rubber OEM-style steering rack bushings
New OEM rubber lower control arm bushings
New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
New aftermarket sway bar bushings front and rear
New 99 Tall Coils front
New OME 906 rear springs
New OEM Tokico Shocks/Struts
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09-21-2020, 01:14 AM
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#201
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: East Bay Area
Posts: 16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: East Bay Area
Posts: 16
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Hey, this thread is what made me sign up and join. I have a 3rd gen 4runner '98 limited, I mainly use it for on road, and daily driver. I'm deciding what build I should go. I'm leaning towards the maverick build, but my 4runner has 270k miles on it. I don't see what kind of springs are used in the maverick build, would it be the 99' OEM talls also?
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09-21-2020, 09:36 PM
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#202
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Member
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Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 37
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tchalla
Hey, this thread is what made me sign up and join. I have a 3rd gen 4runner '98 limited, I mainly use it for on road, and daily driver. I'm deciding what build I should go. I'm leaning towards the maverick build, but my 4runner has 270k miles on it. I don't see what kind of springs are used in the maverick build, would it be the 99' OEM talls also?
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The Bilstein 6112's come with springs if I'm not mistaken.
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09-21-2020, 11:34 PM
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#203
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,684
Real Name: Blair
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,684
Real Name: Blair
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mesooohoppy
sorry i missed that. if your car is lifted get adjustable ones. my sways are at terrible angles with a 3" lift. there is a user on here who makes them. I need to hit him up. i think his name is mstudt or something very similar.
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Yep here is his site:
Sway Bar Links – Overland Custom Design
Edit - He has a new more traditional design shipping at the end of Oct, but I'll defer to the man himself.
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260K - Y2K/E - Clock still works
Last edited by Endlessblockades; 09-21-2020 at 11:45 PM.
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09-22-2020, 07:51 PM
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#204
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: East Bay Area
Posts: 16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: East Bay Area
Posts: 16
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What strut mounts would I get if I am aiming for maverick build, and is maverick build still relevant for 2020 or is there something on this forum that’s more up to date?
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09-23-2020, 12:03 AM
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#205
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: East Bay Area
Posts: 16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: East Bay Area
Posts: 16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danwyl
The Bilstein 6112's come with springs if I'm not mistaken.
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Thanks for the info danwyl. I'm looking on the bilstein website and the combo for maverick build 6112 and the 5160 is out of stock... I don't know how longs it's been or when they will be in stock again for 3gen 4runner, but I signed up on email to get notice. I might just get parts separately, but looking more into detail if maverick build is best since I just daily drive on-road with my 3g4r. What are you're thoughts on this?
Last edited by Tchalla; 09-24-2020 at 12:37 AM.
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09-23-2020, 02:12 AM
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#206
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 24
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 24
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Tchalla, I just had the same realization about the 6112/5160 being out of stock for my 98 Limited �� Also signed up for email notifications. I too wonder how long they've been out of stock and/or how long till they're in stock.
On another note, I've been recommended Dobinson's ~2" kit as an alternative suspension setup, but haven't seen it mentioned in this thread at all. Does anyone have any pros/cons and or experience with Dobinson's? My intentions are to acheive
1)a lift no more than =<3"
2) fit 32-33" tires with no rubbing
3) a nice balance of smooth pavement ride, but capable and durable off-road use
4) Maintain good CoG w/good articulation
This thread has been great through all it's years, thank you all!
-Day 1 member
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1998 Limited 4x4 w/E-Locker
262k miles w/ALL records
All stock except Tall rear springs and WeatherTech mats
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09-23-2020, 11:34 AM
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#207
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tchalla
What strut mounts would I get if I am aiming for maverick build, and is maverick build still relevant for 2020 or is there something on this forum that’s more up to date?
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OEM or Monroe Strut Top Plate, 95-04 Tacoma, 96-02 4Runner
The below was posted in June of 2019 so still relevant:
Quote:
Originally Posted by absalom
Hi all!
I found a burst of passion and was all fired up to edit the original post, but after careful review and deliberation, I've decided to leave it be and simply my post my modifications here.
I hope that at least some folks have found the original guide posted over 4 years ago helpful. In some ways, a lot has changed in that time, but in other ways many of the same basic building blocks remain. After much experimenting, research, and data collecting, I've modified my thoughts on the ideal way to build up these (still) amazing trucks. I hope you'll follow along to see some of the new changes to the builds themselves.
{My current philosophy}:
- Center of gravity is paramount. It's crucial to keep weight as low as possible, while still maintaining up/down travel and factory A-arm geometry.
- Tire size is overrated - for most of us. Tires size doesn't and shouldn't go past 31" unless the builder is prepared to re-gear front and rear. This obviously doesn't apply to extreme wheelers doing trails rated 8+ out of 10. But it also applies to more people than you'd think.
- Accessories should also be kept as low as possible to not take CoG penalty. Unfortunately, many of the rooftop tents, tire carriers, and other high-mounted accessories incur a large CoG penalty, and the vehicle should be driven as such.
- I'm no longer a fan of the TBU after reported safety concerns of it interfering with the ABS system. The stock brakes, in good condition, are more than adequate for this truck - especially when keeping tires sized as described below.
- Armor is awesome! An emphasis should be placed on doing full flat belly and sliders first. I'm less concerned with bumpers, as our trucks have a pretty decent approach/departure angle out of the box. I'd rather drag ass (safely) over an obstacle than be lifted high up and tippy.
Without further adieu, let's jump into my new two favorite build-outs!
The Jack of All Trades -- Brand New!
By following the below simple recipe, the builder can rest assured they'll end up with an extremely capable, reliable and enjoyable truck that still rides, drives, and feels like a brand new OEM truck. Highway speeds of 85+ are a breeze. Steering will be extremely tight and predictable. And handling will be stellar for a truck of this size and design. This truck will live up to, and exceed, its reputation, and be able to handle any sort of camping trip, off-road excursion, or road trip you can dream up. - New OEM lower ball joints
---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
- New radiator - Denso (the Taiwanese units seem acceptable)
- Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
- Brake fluid
- Engine oil
- Power steering fluid
- Differential fluid
- Coolant flush
- New rubber OEM-style steering rack bushings
- New OEM (or rubber, at least) lower control arm bushings (I no longer recommend poly bushings for this application)
- New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
- New aftermarket sway bar bushings front and rear
- New 99 Tall Coils front (Moogs are perfectly acceptable here)
- New OME 906 rear springs
- New OEM Tokico Shocks/Struts
- New 265/70/16 highway terrain or all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)
- Full under-body armor kit (many vendors available)
- Rock sliders (4xInnovations are a great budget option)
The Maverick - Brand New!!
The spicy version of the above, this build improves much of the suspension performance and wheel control over rough terrain. It also modernizes the lighting for increased safety. This build would suit 99.999% of this forum's wheeling habits. It is certainly a shift away from the old school thought of simply lifting to the moon and slapping massive tires on. The 4x4 community is finally recognizing the value of low CoG, and this build recognizes the tremendous benefits. - New OEM lower ball joints
---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
- New radiator - Denso (the Taiwanese units seem acceptable)
- Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
- Brake fluid
- Engine oil
- Power steering fluid
- Differential fluid
- Coolant flush
- New rubber OEM-style steering rack bushings
- New OEM (or rubber, at least) lower control arm bushings (I no longer recommend poly bushings for this application)
- New Durobump bumpstops
- New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
- New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear
- New OME 906 rear springs
- New Bilstein 6112's up front
- New Bilstein 5160's out back
- New 265/75/16 all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine) (Highly recommend the Toyo AT2's for this build, in P-rating)
- Full under-body armor kit (many vendors available)
- Rock sliders (4xInnovations are a great budget option)
- HID Projector retrofit (55w D2s in 4300k color temperature)
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2000 SR5 V6 Manual 4WD https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...biography.html
2000 Limited V6 Auto E-Locker Sold 3/2022
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09-23-2020, 01:59 PM
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#208
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: East Bay Area
Posts: 16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: East Bay Area
Posts: 16
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Thanks a lot for the strut mount link. I can’t wait to fix my 3g4r it’s been such a faithful truck over 270k miles and still running strong! It creaks pretty bad and is bouncy on the freeway, so I’ve been needing to refresh it. Would I be better off spending more for the maverick or the jack of all trades build. Like what are the pros and cons for each?
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09-23-2020, 02:08 PM
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#209
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tchalla
Thanks a lot for the strut mount link. I can’t wait to fix my 3g4r it’s been such a faithful truck over 270k miles and still running strong! It creaks pretty bad and is bouncy on the freeway, so I’ve been needing to refresh it. Would I be better off spending more for the maverick or the jack of all trades build. Like what are the pros and cons for each?
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The main difference between the 2 is adjustability and dampening. 6112's are height adjustable vs the tokico's are not. 6112's have a larger piston diameter than tokico's so they have improved dampening performance. 5160's have an external reservoir which allows for cooler operation and longer service life. It's hard to say if it would be worth the extra money to go with 6112/5160 over oem tokico if you are doing majority paved driving.
__________________
2000 SR5 V6 Manual 4WD https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...biography.html
2000 Limited V6 Auto E-Locker Sold 3/2022
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09-23-2020, 06:54 PM
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#210
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Delft, Netherlands
Age: 18
Posts: 2,049
Real Name: Jordan
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Delft, Netherlands
Age: 18
Posts: 2,049
Real Name: Jordan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tchalla
What strut mounts would I get if I am aiming for maverick build, and is maverick build still relevant for 2020 or is there something on this forum that’s more up to date?
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Absolutely still relevant. 6112's/5160's are the dream setup (performance per dollar) for this platform.
To clear up the confusion, if you go with 6112's then you don't need to purchase springs separately as they are included.
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