06-02-2015, 10:51 PM
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#1
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Illinois
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Join Date: May 2014
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steering rack removal STUCK mid LCA replacement help + part# help
Well guys,
i have no idea how else to title this thread and get some attention/help. I am in the middle of a front end overhaul on the 2002 and it seems to be a pretty typical thing to do on these third gens, ive been a lurker here for the last 2+ years ive owned my 4r and a member the last year now and have successfully completed the " classic 3rd gen" jobs such as..
-timing belt/wp
-tranny cooler
-egr
-sway bars
-feul pump
-diff. tranny. engine. ECT fluid changed.
Now ive done an absolute shit ton of searching on every portion of this project and are even going to provide pictures of my torn apart rig so people know im not just asking 'in preperation'. no i took the week of work to give my old rig some love and would consider myself almost completely torn down but im looking for some help/advice/and part number conformation for a few more uncommon pieces.
so due to some frozen cam sleeves and bolts ( also very common ) i had to chop my LCA's up and need new lower control arms but am confused with the camelback toyota ordering system since it says there is LCA's for vehicles that are 2wd and 4wd and vehicles with 15 and 16 inch rims.
my model is 4wd with 16 inch rims.
so could someone confirm the right and left LCA part number? there 170 a piece and dont want to order the wrong one even though im fairly certain there is only one part number.
in the picutres you can see that the rear cam bolt is still on there due to the rack being in my way, ive searched for decent thread to use on removing the rack since i will be doing ITRE and OTRE as well as a new rack guide and rack bushings at the same time as pulling the column to weld the slip joint how should i go about this? i know this job is a ***** from the little info ive gathered on the removal and yes i have seen the little and few pictured write up availible for this and heard the high and low pressure lines are impossible to remove.
any help on the removal of the rack and advice for the partsandplan portion of this job regarding the rack.
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06-02-2015, 11:29 PM
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#2
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: CO
Posts: 6,023
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Elite Member
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1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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06-02-2015, 11:59 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: oma-ha, NE
Posts: 841
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Join Date: Oct 2012
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Good god, man - Quite ambitious. As far as the rack, it's not as bad as you make it sound. Especially since you already have half the vehicle torn apart. No welding is required. Getting the upper bolt off the rack can be poopy. I've never had issues with the pressure lines. Use proper line wrenches, bolt juice and make sure you flush the pump out. Once the rack, and/or slip joint is disconnected -DO NOT turn the steering wheel multiple times. Best to just ratchet strap it at prime position. Make sure you count the teeth and center the new rack before hooking it back up. Don't assume it's good from the manufacturer. If you want an upgrade, put some poly bushings in the new rack before you install it.
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'96 Limited - Locker - 127k- totaled out -
'01 Limited 175k - sunken and resurrected - stock, other than TBU 231mm
'98 Limited - Locker -158k-Bilstein 5100 Tacos- Toytec/Eibach 3" lift coils- diff drop-265/75/16 Duratracs -OME 890's-Bilstein 5125's, panhard bar drop, TBU 231mm, Spidertrax 1.25' spacers, Savage sliders, 2nd gen SC/URD 7th, JBA exhaust, HID retrofits -
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06-03-2015, 12:05 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
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Real Name: Alex
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Senior Member
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I cannot comment on any of the LCA stuff, but the rack I have done...
To say it's a ***** is a huge over statement... It's very clear what needs to come off, and how it all goes together. You just need to loosen the nuts/bolts and take it out.
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2006 Lexus GX 470 Sport- RR Diff Lock, Metal Tech Sliders, RCI Aluminum Skids, Front Runner Slimline II Rack, SCS F5s, 255/80R17 ST Maxx , OME BP-51s, Dirt King UCAs, Metal Tech RR Lower Links
2016 Lexus IS300 F Sport- F-Sport Air Filter RR Racing tuner
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06-03-2015, 04:02 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Imperial County, CA
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Real Name: Jeff
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Senior Member
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Search for replacing steering rack bushings. The process is the same. You shouldn't need to take of the pressure lines unless you want to.
If you were already going to replace the lca bushings, could you get lca's from a salvage yard?
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97 SR5 4runner: 2" OME Lift, rear E-Locker, 231mm Tundra Brakes, 203K, B&M 70264 Tranny Cooler, Duratracs
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06-03-2015, 09:21 AM
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#6
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Illinois
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The link posted about doesn't appear to be the right parts diagram since the lower control arm has two bushings and it is in an 'A' configuration. #7 on the diagram appears to be a single. Ushing arm. I'm gunna look for the one I've used and post it, after I call my local stealership and pick there brain, reallllyyyy appreciate the help guys I've heard the horror stories from these jobs and it's nice to have some help from 4runner guys.
I choose to negate the bushing replacement route and save myself the time mess and headache and buy the brand the oem arms with the bushings installed and Pop theM in!
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06-03-2015, 10:04 AM
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#7
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Elite Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macshemi57
The link posted about doesn't appear to be the right parts diagram since the lower control arm has two bushings and it is in an 'A' configuration. #7 on the diagram appears to be a single. Ushing arm. I'm gunna look for the one I've used and post it, after I call my local stealership and pick there brain, reallllyyyy appreciate the help guys I've heard the horror stories from these jobs and it's nice to have some help from 4runner guys.
I choose to negate the bushing replacement route and save myself the time mess and headache and buy the brand the oem arms with the bushings installed and Pop theM in!
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Im not sure why the diagram looks like that but if you search the part # on google.
https://www.google.com/search?q=4806...sm=93&ie=UTF-8
It looks exactly like our control arms. Anyways this is easily fixed by calling the dealer and getting the part #. Very simple.
Good luck, I did this task also when front lower ball joint failed. Did steering rack, front coils, shocks, lower ball joints, upper ball joints all in one shot.
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1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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06-03-2015, 10:27 AM
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#8
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Illinois
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i found this JayRolla,
left LCA = 4806935081
right LCA = 4806835081
the only difference in the right and left is the 5th digit in the part number.
below is the diagram ive been using i wonder why camelback shows different diagrams for sr5 and limited models..
regardless i think those are the correct #.
to clear things up, i am not replacing the steering rack i am just removing it to gain clearance to remove the rear. so since i was under the impression that the rack had to be removed i figured i would give it a refresher while its off witht he following parts/procedures.
rack bushings
rack guide
ITRE/OTRE
and weld the slip joint ( this is a steering column issue not rack )
i mention the slip joint becuase it seems to be the cure in a large amount of play in the column and wondered if i should comeplete that portion of the job first or last.
also for any of the above repairs i know this question can be redundant, but can i just removes the 4 bolts in the rack and not remove any of the lines, or would this not work?
as always i appreciate all the help from you senior " 4runner god's " as me and my old man refer to as haha.
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06-03-2015, 10:29 AM
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#9
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Join Date: May 2014
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the diagram
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06-03-2015, 10:38 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Imperial County, CA
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Real Name: Jeff
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Senior Member
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You don't need to remove the pressure lines as long as you don't mind's doing the other work under the truck
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97 SR5 4runner: 2" OME Lift, rear E-Locker, 231mm Tundra Brakes, 203K, B&M 70264 Tranny Cooler, Duratracs
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Last edited by JBurt; 06-04-2015 at 01:19 AM.
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06-03-2015, 09:47 PM
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#11
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Like you guys said, easier than I thought, just move the hard line brackets so you have some jiggle room and slide her on off. Lol thanks for the help as always, will post pics when my boss coilovers sit between there new home.. New oem lca and light racing uca.
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06-04-2015, 12:28 AM
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#12
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Bellingham,WA
Age: 31
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Real Name: Julian
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Join Date: Jul 2014
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Man your lucky... When I was doing my LCA with
@ curtis
we snapped a spot weld on a nut that holds the rack.. Cause the last owner completely ruined the threads on it. We had to cut open the frame a bit and weld the spot on the nut again.. Very fun
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2000 4runner - 3 inch suspension and 1.5inch body I think.. deck plate mode rear e locker.!
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