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Old 07-04-2015, 09:24 AM #1
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Where to place Jack stands for rear shock removal

Hey guys,
I'm going to put some bilstein 4600's in today. For the rear should I put the jack stands on either side of the rear differential like I normally would, or somewhere else to allow the axle to hang down to get at that PITA top nut?
Thanks!
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Old 07-04-2015, 09:32 AM #2
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Both sides of frame rails, chock front wheels
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Old 07-04-2015, 09:35 AM #3
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You're going to want be able to move the axle. Put your jack stands under the frame rails just in front of the control arm mounts, and then use the jack to raise and lower the axle as necessary.
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Old 07-04-2015, 10:14 AM #4
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You don't need to jack the truck up to remove the rear shocks. Unless having more vertical room helps, just let it sit there is what I do. Remove the spare tire so you can crawl back there and easily reach the top nut and you're home free.
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Old 07-04-2015, 10:18 AM #5
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For shocks I'd do a jack stand under the axle on both sides, pop the tires off, drop the spare, and bust out the sawzall. Should have it all done in an hour.
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Old 07-04-2015, 05:40 PM #6
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Axle works, but it'll make putting the new shocks on a bit harder. It's easier to do this with the jack stands on the frame (just below the rear passenger door, you'll see the flat frame or consult your owner's manual). Take the spare tire out too, also the higher you can get the rear end the easier it is. Good luck on getting the old ones off!

PLEASE be on a level surface and chock the front tires. There are no brakes engaged on the front tires in park so it will roll if you aren't careful.
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Old 07-04-2015, 05:53 PM #7
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I lock mine in 4lo. Engages the front end with the transmission and in turn the parking pawl. Helps keep the front from rolling.
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Old 07-04-2015, 06:23 PM #8
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got some BIG channel locks to hold the upper shock? I didn't and had to use clamps to crush the upper sleeve. nothing like having the right tools!
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Old 07-04-2015, 07:33 PM #9
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Sawzall. To easy.
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Old 07-04-2015, 08:48 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cashmoney View Post
Sawzall. To easy.
Nah, ChannelLocks even easier. I had the Sawzall lying on the ground ready to go and there it stayed. 15 seconds per side. Sawzall only if the old shocks are not stockers and have no upper steel boot.

I didn't jack the truck up, either.
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Old 07-04-2015, 08:54 PM #11
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doesn't it seem odd there's not some kind of wrench fitting at the top for holding?????
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Old 07-04-2015, 09:02 PM #12
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Put in 4lo in park and chalk front wheels. Jack up the rear diff and put jack stands on the frame right in front of the mount/curve. Then just drop the axle. You can also disconnect the sway bar to push the axle further down. If you can get the top nut off the shock then sawzaw that thing right between the washer and the mounting point. On my first one, I cut it too low on the shock and had to cut it again. Second one came off with copious amounts of wd-40 and elbow grease. Also, removing the rear tire is a must for some much needed working space.
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Old 07-05-2015, 01:38 AM #13
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Got the shocks off without too much trouble. Used a pipe wrench and a deep 14mm on a 3/8. But I'm having problems putting the new ones on. I've got them inserted into the top mount, and the nut threaded. But they extend down way far. I put the runner on jack stands on the frame and dropped the axle low, but then the angle for inserting the bottom mount isnt right. When I jack it back up the shock bracket is way too low. Suggestions? Am I just weak and need to compress the shock up to the mount?
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Old 07-05-2015, 03:37 AM #14
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I had my big friend stand on the drum and then I compressed the shock enough to get the tip of the mount in the shock bushing. Once the tip was in, I lubed it up and used a 2x4 and mallet to hit the shock on. The 2x4 was used to apply equal pressure and to keep from damaging the bushing. The bushing may be at an angle but once its fully on, it will adjust back to normal. It helps to disconnect the sway bar endlinks to maximize the amount you can move the axle.
Edit: It also helps to compress the shock a little further than the mount and push it on while you control the decompression. It does take a decent amount of strength to compress the shock.
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Last edited by IsaiahC; 07-05-2015 at 03:40 AM.
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Old 07-05-2015, 09:55 AM #15
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I did it the opposite way. I got the bottom mount on first (like above I had to use a hammer to get it on because of the angle) that way I could use my body weight to help compress the shock and then guided the top into place.
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