07-24-2015, 08:36 PM
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#1
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Elite Member
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Real Name: Scramble
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How did you paint your custom front bumper?
Not a stock bumper, a Shrockworks, 4xInnov, Add. Offroad, etc.
I'm not looking for painting lessons, I want to see how other people did theirs & pics of the final product. Did you not like how it came out? What would you do differently, if anything? Did it come out mint?
What type of primer, regular? self-etching? Paint brand, Matte? Gloss? Semi-Gloss? Clear coat (if any) did you use?
I'm going to sand off the surface rust.
Clean with acetone - use Duplicolor self etching primer - probably 2 or 3 coats & lightly sand in between coats to make smooth - Then paint it Black, I haven't decided on Gloss or Semi-Gloss yet - Then a clear coat, not sure yet if I'll use Matte, Satin or Gloss.
Thank You!
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'99 4Runner - 2.7L 3RZ, 5 Speed, 4.56 Gears - Lifted, Locked & Loaded - 166k Original owner - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
'99 Limited - E-Locker- Stock (for now) - 233k 2nd Owner http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ted-build.html
Last edited by Scramble; 07-24-2015 at 09:04 PM.
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07-24-2015, 09:04 PM
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#2
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Self-etching automobile primer (spray bomb can) followed by Hammerite (not Rustoleum hammered finish) black. It's the most durable paint I've ever found in a spray bomb can and is very difficult to remove if you want it off. It's very soft for at least a week after spraying however.
If you have a spray gun there are a number of tractor paints you can get in quart cans that are really tough if you mix a hardener in with them.
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07-24-2015, 09:07 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Dayton, OR
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Rustoleum self etching, 2 or 3 coats, followed by Rustoleum flat black, normal, not professional. Rustoleum is a bit harder to get a perfectly smooth finish than the valspar I use on other stuff, but it lays on much thicker than any of the other brands.
Don't bother with clear on it, touching up is easier without, and it won't make that big of a difference in durability on steel plate, mostly just helps on plastics.
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'97 3RZ 5 Speed "FrankenRunner" ( Build Thread) - Dormant
The "shitmobile" 500$ 3RZ Auto 4Runner - ( Saved from the Scrapyard: Resurrecting a 500$ 3rd Gen
02 Tacoma Double Cab, mid-travel, locked, armored, supercharged and riced. (Longbed and 5 speed in the works)
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07-24-2015, 09:36 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csp
Self-etching automobile primer (spray bomb can) followed by Hammerite (not Rustoleum hammered finish) black. It's the most durable paint I've ever found in a spray bomb can and is very difficult to remove if you want it off. It's very soft for at least a week after spraying however.
If you have a spray gun there are a number of tractor paints you can get in quart cans that are really tough if you mix a hardener in with them.
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Shrockworks recommends Hammerite - saw some on Amazon. Thanks for the tip, I want durable.
I don't have a compressor but I have an electric paint sprayer that works good.
I was thinking about using the Duplicolor Paint Shop Finish System in it. It doesn't need a hardener.
DupliColor Jet Black Paint Shop Finish Spray Paint
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'99 4Runner - 2.7L 3RZ, 5 Speed, 4.56 Gears - Lifted, Locked & Loaded - 166k Original owner - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
'99 Limited - E-Locker- Stock (for now) - 233k 2nd Owner http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ted-build.html
Last edited by Scramble; 07-24-2015 at 09:44 PM.
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07-24-2015, 09:41 PM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnderFire
Rustoleum self etching, 2 or 3 coats, followed by Rustoleum flat black, normal, not professional. Rustoleum is a bit harder to get a perfectly smooth finish than the valspar I use on other stuff, but it lays on much thicker than any of the other brands.
Don't bother with clear on it, touching up is easier without, and it won't make that big of a difference in durability on steel plate, mostly just helps on plastics.
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I used the Valspar Dark Grey on a set of wheels once & liked working with it.
I figured the clear coat would be another layer of protection from water & salt.
I really would like to keep this thing from rusting in NE winters.
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'99 4Runner - 2.7L 3RZ, 5 Speed, 4.56 Gears - Lifted, Locked & Loaded - 166k Original owner - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
'99 Limited - E-Locker- Stock (for now) - 233k 2nd Owner http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ted-build.html
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07-24-2015, 09:49 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scramble
I used the Valspar Dark Grey on a set of wheels once & liked working with it.
I figured the clear coat would be another layer of protection from water & salt.
I really would like to keep this thing from rusting in NE winters.
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Your best prevention from rust is going to be cleaning and touching up bare spots when you're talking plate steel.
You could also probably coat it with an oil or something, not sure what kind though.
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'97 3RZ 5 Speed "FrankenRunner" ( Build Thread) - Dormant
The "shitmobile" 500$ 3RZ Auto 4Runner - ( Saved from the Scrapyard: Resurrecting a 500$ 3rd Gen
02 Tacoma Double Cab, mid-travel, locked, armored, supercharged and riced. (Longbed and 5 speed in the works)
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07-24-2015, 10:36 PM
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#7
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Clear coat won't do anything that additional coats of the color coat would make.
Pay close attention to spray times between coats. New paint formulations are very particular about hitting the intervals between coats or they can be ruined.
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07-24-2015, 11:34 PM
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#8
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I had my rear bumper powder coated. By the time you buy good (automotive quality) primer and paint you're a long way toward paying for powder coating.
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2002 T4R Limited, 191K miles - OME 883 front - LC 7 wrap/2nd gen sway bar links rear - Detroit Truetrac Diff - Cooper A/T3s - Warn M8000 - ARB Bumper - homemade (er, 'custom') rear bumper w/tire & can carrier - BajaRack - Diff Breather Mod - Hayden trans cooler - Yaesu 2M, Cobra CB - Fridge, off-road trailer with Tepui RTT (real expo poser)In Africa they say: "Buy a Land Rover and it will take you anywhere. Buy a Toyota and it will take you there ... and bring you back home." jannikt on wranglerforum.com - I'm guessing he didn't make many friends there with that line.
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07-24-2015, 11:50 PM
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#9
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Join Date: Nov 2014
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Had it powder coated and turned out great. Has a rough texture to it so it feels like linex.
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Mitchell Schweitzer
1999 Toyota 4Runner Limited "Forerunner"
"Forerunner" Build Thread
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07-25-2015, 01:26 AM
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#10
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Elite Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98OzarksRunner
I had my rear bumper powder coated. By the time you buy good (automotive quality) primer and paint you're a long way toward paying for powder coating.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skier46er
Had it powder coated and turned out great. Has a rough texture to it so it feels like linex.
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I like powder coating but it's hard to touch up scratches. Shrockworks would have powder coated it for an extra $100 (well worth it) but I'll probably be getting my rear bumper & sliders from different companies & I want the Black's to match on everything.
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'99 4Runner - 2.7L 3RZ, 5 Speed, 4.56 Gears - Lifted, Locked & Loaded - 166k Original owner - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
'99 Limited - E-Locker- Stock (for now) - 233k 2nd Owner http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ted-build.html
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07-25-2015, 03:42 AM
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#11
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I use rustoleum professional for everything. Excellent products. My bumpers have 2 coats of primer, and 3 coats of flat black.
I scuffed them with a green scotch brite pad, wiped down with acetone, and started painting.
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2006 Lexus GX 470 Sport- RR Diff Lock, Metal Tech Sliders, RCI Aluminum Skids, Front Runner Slimline II Rack, SCS F5s, 255/80R17 ST Maxx , OME BP-51s, Dirt King UCAs, Metal Tech RR Lower Links
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07-25-2015, 03:54 AM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scramble
I'm going to sand off the surface rust.
Clean with acetone - use Duplicolor self etching primer - probably 2 or 3 coats & lightly sand in between coats to make smooth - Then paint it Black, I haven't decided on Gloss or Semi-Gloss yet - Then a clear coat, not sure yet if I'll use Matte, Satin or Gloss.
Thank You!
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This is about the exact same method I used and thought it came out great (went with semi-gloss). I don't think I would change anything if I did it again.
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2000 Highlander - 3" OME 883F 890R - ARB F&R Lockers - AOR Bumper - Savage Armor - WARN M8000 - RIGID LED Floods - TRD Wheels - TBU - HID - BFG KM2
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07-25-2015, 09:35 AM
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#13
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2014
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Real Name: Mitch
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Utica, NY
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Real Name: Mitch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scramble
I like powder coating but it's hard to touch up scratches. Shrockworks would have powder coated it for an extra $100 (well worth it) but I'll probably be getting my rear bumper & sliders from different companies & I want the Black's to match on everything.
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I had mine powder coated for $50 from a lighting company.
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Mitchell Schweitzer
1999 Toyota 4Runner Limited "Forerunner"
"Forerunner" Build Thread
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07-25-2015, 11:42 AM
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#14
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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Elite Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skier46er
I had mine powder coated for $50 from a lighting company.
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That's an awesome price.
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'99 4Runner - 2.7L 3RZ, 5 Speed, 4.56 Gears - Lifted, Locked & Loaded - 166k Original owner - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
'99 Limited - E-Locker- Stock (for now) - 233k 2nd Owner http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ted-build.html
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07-25-2015, 12:11 PM
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#15
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Elite Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GVL
This is about the exact same method I used and thought it came out great (went with semi-gloss). I don't think I would change anything if I did it again.
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Thanks for the reply.
Do you have a pic of it finished? Is that the Duplicolor self etching green primer?
What semi-gloss black did you use? Did you use a clear coat?
Thanks
Edit: I went through your photo's & your truck & bumper look great!
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'99 4Runner - 2.7L 3RZ, 5 Speed, 4.56 Gears - Lifted, Locked & Loaded - 166k Original owner - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
'99 Limited - E-Locker- Stock (for now) - 233k 2nd Owner http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ted-build.html
Last edited by Scramble; 07-25-2015 at 12:21 PM.
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