If you're keeping the stock bumper I'd go with perch # one. Steel bumper - I like the way it rides on #2. Some guys like #3 with the steel bumper & less of a rake but it will ride a little stiffer. I have a steel rear bumper on the way so that will bring my rake down a little.

1997 4Runner, 5spd, 3rz. 313k miles. Never ad the engine rebuilt and the clutch still is amazing.

Now at 155k miles, manual, 4wd, valve job few k ago, Gibson exhaust, lifted since yesterday on Icon stage 1 setup with OME 906 rear coils +10mm trim packers. Feels great, front a bit stiff as mentioned above, so will take it down at least 1/2 inch when I swap out UCAs for a bit of rake and softness. CBI rear bumper is quite light and I like the hybrid look a lot. Can also see the LCE headers through the wheel wells with the lift;)

Here's what she looked like when I got her late last November and this morning. ALready put too much money to mention into a doubtful success story. Tires, UCAs and LBJs next, after some rear diff maintenance.

HD4B

Attached Images

         

Looks good HD4Banger.

Did you notice any difference in power or 'smoothness' of engine after valve job? Did you do a compression test before, if not what was the reason or symptoms you were trying to correct by doing a valve job?

Thanks

Durwin

Hey, Durwin, Thanks;0)

Long answer is I had a compression test done early on, just on a hunch because I thought engine was weaker than it should be. Turned out my cylinder 1 was at 80psi, compared to 140 and up for the others, so I was expecting trouble soonish. I pushed her up hills pretty hard and only a few months later got my first CEL, cylinder 1 misfire. My uncle worked for Toyota all his life, in his mid 80s now, diagnosed it over the phone in 2 seconds: Burnt exhaust valve.

So I bit a buncha bullets and brought it to Toyota. New head gasket even though old one fine at 153k, resurfaced and machined head til it sparkled, new valve cover gasket, exhaust valves etc and tech said bottom end looked good, taken care of. The valve job didn't turn the 4 into a 6 but I accelerate up hills now, and the new gaskets will get me easily to 300k without trouble. Also, new exhaust and headers definitely added something to cumulative effect, spread out torque.

Downside? Could finance an engine swap, or buy a promising builder off craigslist for near same price. Upside; feels like tight, new engine, feel more confident putting a low boost SC on there eventually. If you've got a good local guy who'll do it right with OEM gaskets and the like for a G less, why not? I think the actual machining of the head was billed at less than 400$.

I'm a loyal dude and this car fits me well, so I figured I keep her parts together as much as possible. Was very tempted by all sorts of swaps.

Short answer is yep, definite difference, depending on how much compression lost already. Is yours acting sluggier than usual? How many miles you got? And manual? I don't think I could do an auto 4banger and take any pleasure in it.

HD4banger, thanks for the honest and detailed response. I did a compression test about a year ago, and had one cylinder that was 120, the rest were 140+. I did adjust the valves at the same time. I didn't notice any difference in how it ran afterwards. Probably because all were still within spec, but a couple were on the low (I believe) side of spec.

I have 228k, and yes manual, and it does fine. It is not my DD, so I only drive it when going to the 'hills', which means sloooow uphill. The reason I asked is I know at some time (probably sooner than later) I will need to refresh the 'ol gal' and I have plans to install a low boost SC. I want the engine fresh before I do that.

I agree, I couldn't / wouldn't drive this 4 cyl with an auto...

I've invested too much in it to turn back now, so I'll eventually spend some more to keep it running good. I really like it...

So I've heard about these but I wanted to see if you guys had or not. Apparently we have 2 hole injectors from the factory but there are 4 hole injectors. I've got nearly 300k on the odo now and I've been thinking that my injectors are getting closer to due for replacement.

I've been getting around 180 miles to 13 gallons commuting to and from work which seems a little low. I've just done new plugs, adjusted the valves, new coil packs, new pcv, new wires, new air filterand cleaned the intake manifold. I haven't done a compression check yet and I'm kind of fearful of the results. Perhaps new injectors could help with the low gas mileage. Of course part of my commute requires a run of interstate speeds above 70 too so that isn't helping either I'm sure.

I lose zero coolant and I don't think I'm burning any oil. It's always in the crosshairs when it's changed.

I do have a few things working against me. I run 235/85 tires on 4.30 gears (which should put me right at stock gearing), an armored front bumper, and a fairly un-aerodynamic full length roof rack.

Here's a link to what I'm talking about.

4x Upgrade OEM Denso Multi Hole Fuel Injectors 99-04 Toyota Tacoma 2.4L 2.7L | eBay

I have a little issue going on with my 3rz. (105000 miles) Weird grinding/ squeeling noise from the front of the motor. I have a video, just don't know how to post it here. Maybe this will work? Security Check
Pulling the belts and the noise stopped once I got the alternator belt off. So that leaves water pump, alternator, or fan clutch.
I dont have an issue with overheating and there are no coolant leaks anywhere. The heat works great
I checked the voltage on the alternator, 14.3 at idle.
Fan clutch seems to be working as it should.

Which is the more likely culprit? I initially thought water pump, but now guessing alternator. Hate to just throw parts at it.

I'd say it's the water pump just going off past experiences. They squeal pretty good when it's getting close. It's working fine when squealing....its when it stops.

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Krypto,
I follow this thread closely, but somehow missed this post. Did you end up getting new injectors? If so, can you give a review?
I don't know anything about the ones in the link, but I have done a little research on the 'pink injectors' that LCE performance sells. I plan to upgrade to them, when I purchase and install a low boost SC.

I hope your 4runner is still running strong.

Durwin

Thank you! Anything else I should address or change while I'm doing the water pump?

You can take a look at your oil pump....if it's not leaking though I wouldn't worry about it. My front main seal failed at around 275k. The oil pump itself is nearly foolproof but the front main is behind the oil pump so I just replaced both while i was in there. Make sure you order the LC Allen key bolts for the oil pump cover before you do it. The stock phillip head screws are junk.

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I am still doing research on this. I'm leaning towards the lc injectors as well. 4runner is hanging in there. I had to replace the alternator and went with the cs144 upgrade. So far it's awesome. I have an annoying headlight failure but I think its just going to have to wait till I can examine all the wiring. I replaced the dimmer switch and I'll be replacing the bulbs soon anyway. I think I replaced one after the deer strike so this one might have just burned out (however the high beam still works so?)

In the long run I want to find a short block for replacement, do some upgrades to the head and cams, and then slap a high boost super whirly thing on there and call it good. If I can make 300 plus there is zero incentive for me to join the v8 club.

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Well I have headlights again so now I can turn my attention to the injectors and some other fun upgrades.

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I have a question for ALL my 3RZ brethren...

Have any of you installed a supercharger? I am really wanting to jump to 35's soon, and I have the correct gearing for them (5.29's), but my engine has 225+k on it and is starting to feel a little 'tired'. So I am thinking of rebuilding the engine and installing a LCE low boost SC with new pink top injectors to help push the 35's.

I would appreciate any and all thoughts and comments.

Thanks

Durwin