So basically you mean one radiator and thats it?

I think he means bypassing the lower trans coolant tank on the stock or stock-style radiator and using a standalone trans cooler only. I know a lot of people that that works for, but a lot of us run a second cooler in series to keep trans temps in check if that is needed. Worked wonders for my trans temps - they were running rather high. I don't experience freezing temps, however.

I agree with endless. The key is your environment. In non freezing areas were the temperature stays fairly in a range is different then the freezing temperatures majorly swinging.

For example: I am in the rust belt with temperatures fluctuating all the time.


The internal radiator cooler acts like a heater as well. So the transmission fluid can warm up quicker when it's really cold outside.


So just change mine every 10 years with a new denso.

This works for me.


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Thanks Guys...
I didn't understand what was being said. I'm downstate NY so that wont be right for me. it gets cold here.

As i have read some say it's a good idea and some say it isn't . I think like you guys said it's "where u live"

I used to run an ATC when i towed my popup on a pretty regular Basis. Now it's just my Jetski.- which has a bigger fuel tank than my damn 4 runner.

Current options:

Generic Denso that some forum geniuses think is OEM - cheapass generic radiator that resembles the quality of parts you'd use to keep a hyundai excel beater on the road, no better than what your local autozone will provide.

Champion CC1998 - for guys with no standards for the parts they install on their truck. Tacomaworld has reports of failures too. These things are generally shit.

KoyoRacing Aluminum - couple reports of leaking on TacomaWorld. These guys are like the soup nazis for aluminum radiators. They aren't in this game for the money since their principle is no transmission coolers built in. There goes more than half your potential sales. At least there is a standard they were built to meet. If you're going with aluminum then shouldn't that solve internal leaking concerns anyway?

The Japanese Denso is getting harder to find. Overall radiator options are a crapshoot for our aging 4Runners. It may be worth it to invest in a custom aluminum piece.

My, don't You paint a rosy picture.... But lets rephrase it in a way that more people will understand and be able to use:

Under $100 ~ ebay, amazon special

$115 ~ Toyota part from dealer (few dollars higher in some places, this is just MY dealers price to anyone who buys online for pickup).

$200 ~ Champion (no plastic, no crimps)

$400 ~ Koyo aluminum (no plastic, no crimps)

$650+ ~ Claimed Japan made OEM, sourced from a sketchy overseas online place (but most people agree the Japan made radiators have long since been NLA). Still plastic caps with crimps to "seal".


I went Champion as Koyo didn't exist at the time and I didn't want a plastic crimped radiator. The radiator core is good, well built with good welding. It's the fit and finish that's lacking, both easily resolved in a few minutes by anyone who's had any experience working on vehicles ~ you'll have the tools needed already and the experience to know how to handle whatever minor issue comes up. I'm not sure I would have bought the Koyo had it been available anyway, at Twice the price, I doubt it's Twice the radiator.

As for failures, there's no product in the world that's never had a failure. That's a Terrible litmus test by which to judge something.

I put a champion in sometime in 2017. Been running flawlessly since. I had to use washers for finding out the fit to be nice and flush and when I remove it for fan or engine work it's cumbersome...but it'll never crack like plastic and destroy my motor!

The $115 Toyota part is the same as the Ebay/Amazon special. A legit OEM is around $400. I'd reckon that its sketchier to buy from a US based aftermarket bumper company than to buy from an overseas supplier like Partsouq or Amayama.

Champion Radiator Aluminum 3 core swap | Page 30 | Tacoma World

I mean, how much do they really sell? Like 500? Let's assume 15-20 failures out of those 500. That is pretty poor. These things are failing from the welds. What is stopping them from doing crappy welds on the ATF cooler? I guess we can use "experience" to make a Champion work, but then we just keep allowing them to continue selling crap and use us as their quality control guinea pig. Not a company I'd support. The Koyo honestly does look like twice the radiator minus an ATF cooler.

Feb 2017 I bought a new Denso # W0133-1895498 from partsgeek for $146.43 because the original 2001 unit finally died.This Denso worked but crapped out Dec 2020 I got under 4 years the plastic top cap just cracked. So looked at different options I ended up buying from radiator express which is an on-line company that seem to source from actual wholesalers.
The new radiator was actually beefier than the old one. I didn’t used a scale but just doing a empirical comparison the new unit felt about 2 lbs more it was also cheaper by $30. The country of origin is Malaysia it was clearly labeled on the box . The packaging was 1st class it actually had formed foam around the upper & lower caps and on core.

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well my cheapo denso from amazon finally showed up...and I was amazed it did not have any broken bits..I knew it was a gamble with past denso radiator i have gotten shipped..denso does such a poor packing job.
And its prob the cheaper denso as the numbers dont have a "w" in it like referenced above....
did not know denso played that game of 2 different qualities.....if so... how can you trust the denso name

Just curious, where was it made? The Chinese made one I got was packaged far better than the Taiwanese made one. The one with the W in the PN is the same thing - not a Japanese made OEM quality Denso.

Denso is just using their name to get their slice in the cheap and crappy radiator game. They are a business after all. Like the Champion, many are still buying it despite it being junk, so they have no reason to change their business model.

So these two rads are the same? Thanks.

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No, the part# that starts with the "W" is supposed to be the better one.

People who answer questions online are supposed to know what they are talking about

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I just make up shit.