10-26-2015, 02:56 PM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtrunnin
Sorry, the blue wire has no ground at the connection for the switch that I replaced ("Detection Switch (Transfer 4WD position)" in the diagram) on the wire coming from l11 in the diagram. So looking at the schematic I'm thinking that narrows it down to the ADD indicator switch, the combination meter (not sure what that is) or the ADD control relay. What are your thoughts?
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You've got it backwards. The blue wire is supposed to GET ground from the H4 switch. If it doesn't have ground when in H4. and the white-black has ground like you said, something is wrong with the switch, or the small chance there is actually something wrong within the TC.
Combination switch is toyo-speak for gauge cluster. But all that stuff works in L4, so they are all good.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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10-27-2015, 02:03 PM
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#17
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Just went out and tested resistance again. Tell me if I'm crazy but here is what I get. I turned the truck on and put it in 4H. Unplugged the 4H switch at the blue connection. Tested switch (the new one) can't get a reading on resistance. Infinity every way i do it. Did I get a bad switch? Also with the truck on and the switch disconnected so i could access the testing points, the blue and the white/black wire coming from the truck side (not the switch side) they test 95 ohms and .8 ohms respectively. I understand that the switch will supply ground to the blue wire but short of stripping it where can i test this? Thank you for the patience. I feel like I'm doing something stupid here.
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1999 SR5 4X4 5 speed J shift, LC 8 wraps, 295/75/16's, freaking love this truck.
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10-27-2015, 03:05 PM
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#18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtrunnin
Just went out and tested resistance again. Tell me if I'm crazy but here is what I get. I turned the truck on and put it in 4H. Unplugged the 4H switch at the blue connection. Tested switch (the new one) can't get a reading on resistance. Infinity every way i do it. Did I get a bad switch? Also with the truck on and the switch disconnected so i could access the testing points, the blue and the white/black wire coming from the truck side (not the switch side) they test 95 ohms and .8 ohms respectively. I understand that the switch will supply ground to the blue wire but short of stripping it where can i test this? Thank you for the patience. I feel like I'm doing something stupid here.
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No sweat. Next step is easy. Pull the switch and leave it connected. Depress and hold the contact button. If blue has ground, you have a good switch and problem is inside the TC--something is not engaging the contact button. If blue is not grounded, and white/black is, you have a bad switch.
When testing ground, I prefer red lead on a 12V+ source, and probe with the black lead. In fact, a 12V test light is better than a meter because it calls for a larger current. A meter can show low resistance, but sometimes the circuit can't pass a real current.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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10-29-2015, 04:22 PM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk
No sweat. Next step is easy. Pull the switch and leave it connected. Depress and hold the contact button. If blue has ground, you have a good switch and problem is inside the TC--something is not engaging the contact button. If blue is not grounded, and white/black is, you have a bad switch.
When testing ground, I prefer red lead on a 12V+ source, and probe with the black lead. In fact, a 12V test light is better than a meter because it calls for a larger current. A meter can show low resistance, but sometimes the circuit can't pass a real current.
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Did a similar test, pulled the switch, turned the car on and pressed it with my thumb. 4wd light came on. Seems to be something in the TC not depressing the switch when I put the shifter in 4H...bummer. Any thoughts what it might be, so odd because it works so well in every other regard. Another TC shouldn't be too tough to find and yank out, it would be great to avoid doing it though. Thanks again for the trouble shooting help, you really know your $hit about this stuff The Durk.
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1999 SR5 4X4 5 speed J shift, LC 8 wraps, 295/75/16's, freaking love this truck.
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11-10-2015, 03:12 PM
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#20
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Hey all, anyone know why a functioning switch wouldn't be depressed to put my runner into 4H but work on 4L?
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1999 SR5 4X4 5 speed J shift, LC 8 wraps, 295/75/16's, freaking love this truck.
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01-11-2016, 07:15 PM
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#21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk
No sweat. Next step is easy. Pull the switch and leave it connected. Depress and hold the contact button. If blue has ground, you have a good switch and problem is inside the TC--something is not engaging the contact button. If blue is not grounded, and white/black is, you have a bad switch.
When testing ground, I prefer red lead on a 12V+ source, and probe with the black lead. In fact, a 12V test light is better than a meter because it calls for a larger current. A meter can show low resistance, but sometimes the circuit can't pass a real current.
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One more question The Durk, since we're at a stand still here. When you are in neutral, is your 4wd light on in your gauge cluster?
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1999 SR5 4X4 5 speed J shift, LC 8 wraps, 295/75/16's, freaking love this truck.
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01-12-2016, 09:11 PM
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#22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtrunnin
One more question The Durk, since we're at a stand still here. When you are in neutral, is your 4wd light on in your gauge cluster?
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As you can see in my sig, I have a 5 speed with J-shift. But I assume autos are the same. Once it goes in, it doesn't matter what gear the trans is in. 4wd light stays on until you take it out of 4wd.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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01-12-2016, 10:00 PM
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#23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtrunnin
Hey all, anyone know why a functioning switch wouldn't be depressed to put my runner into 4H but work on 4L?
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You're probably looking at the wrong switch. You must be looking at the 4L switch. 4H is a different switch. On the other side of the TC, same position.
__________________
'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
Last edited by TheDurk; 01-13-2016 at 05:44 AM.
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01-14-2016, 02:21 PM
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#24
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I don't have this problem, but I read the posts and I have to give a standing ovation to TheDurk and the rest of the experts on this forum who help beginners like me with not just one comment, but repeatedly walking through the troubleshooting steps.
I am so appreciative and so thankful for everyone's generosity!
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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Joe Sindorf, Grand Rapids, Michigan
1999 4Runner Limited
260k mi, Auto Trans, 4wd, Locking Rear Diff, v6
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01-14-2016, 03:24 PM
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#25
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Agreed, excellent tech advice.
This might be irrelevant at this point, I kinda skimmed to here. I had the same issue, 5-speed/j-shift. 4L worked, but not 4H.
My wiring was swapped on the t-case at the blue connectors. Is it possible yours got switched around too? Likely not, but worth a shot since you've seemingly exhausted everything.
We did a clutch on my truck and in a rush it got switched around. Took me 10 minutes to fix, after being nearly stranded in the snow when I went to the woods and discovered the issue. Good luck fixing it.
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01-19-2016, 11:01 AM
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#26
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Couldn't agree more for all the accolades to TheDurk and everyone here that does such a great job helping people like me on this issue. Unreal. Secondly, I will try switching the wiring, makes total sense. One of those easy things that I didn't think to do. Thank you!
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01-19-2016, 11:12 AM
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#27
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If
@ TheDurk
got paid for 4x4 issue advice on this forum, he'd be a millionaire many times over by now =)
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01-19-2016, 11:39 AM
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#28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99Runnr
Agreed, excellent tech advice.
This might be irrelevant at this point, I kinda skimmed to here. I had the same issue, 5-speed/j-shift. 4L worked, but not 4H.
My wiring was swapped on the t-case at the blue connectors. Is it possible yours got switched around too? Likely not, but worth a shot since you've seemingly exhausted everything.
We did a clutch on my truck and in a rush it got switched around. Took me 10 minutes to fix, after being nearly stranded in the snow when I went to the woods and discovered the issue. Good luck fixing it.
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THAT WAS IT!!!! Hahahaha, I'm on cloud 9 right now. Thought the TC might be a gonner there for a minute. I learned a TON about this thanks to TheDurk. 99Runnr thank you for your tid bit. That did the trick. In the future, if anyone has the issue of 4H not working but 4L and N work great with no flashing lights on J shift, manual tranny. Switch the two blue plugs for the TC 4H 4L switches. That did it, working like a charm. Easiest and quickest fix of all time. You guys rock!
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1999 SR5 4X4 5 speed J shift, LC 8 wraps, 295/75/16's, freaking love this truck.
Last edited by vtrunnin; 01-19-2016 at 11:21 PM.
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01-19-2016, 11:56 AM
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#29
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Wow, I never thought of that one, but no one ever brought that symptom set to me before. (no flashing light makes this one different) When I did my clutch, I was careful to match the wire colors on both sides of the blue plugs.
At the end of the day, I learn from you guys, and that's why I keep doing this.
We would have hashed our way to this eventually, so it goes in the win column for everybody. Good deal.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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01-19-2016, 09:48 PM
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#30
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Hell yea man. Sorry it took so long to figure it out for ya. Luckily for me, I was the one who touched it all lastly. We did my clutch and before the truck had EVER been in 4wd.
I started there cause it was incredibly simple. Glad I could ultimately help ya out. I've been out using the piss out of my 4wd since fixing it myself 
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