[APhelps]

Nice job! I need to get a welder or find some friend who has one down here. :/

[4Runner4Leon]

Awesome tubing work! But please tell me that's not the vehicle you ordered the hood strut kit for, we'll need to talk if it is .

[AssBurns]

Originally Posted by 4Runner4Leon

Awesome tubing work! But please tell me that's not the vehicle you ordered the hood strut kit for, we'll need to talk if it is .

Heck yes it is! I’ll make it work. There are still fenders to mount it to. It’ll work as intended 😉

[theesotericone]

Originally Posted by AssBurns

Heck yes it is! I’ll make it work. There are still fenders to mount it to. It’ll work as intended 😉

Will the rig though? lol

Nice approach angle. I can't wait to get on the Dusy and see how much of a difference that makes. Are you worried about the winch center line being higher then the fairlead or is that an optical illusion?

[AssBurns]

Originally Posted by theesotericone

Will the rig though? lol

Nice approach angle. I can't wait to get on the Dusy and see how much of a difference that makes. Are you worried about the winch center line being higher then the fairlead or is that an optical illusion?

The winch centerline is supposed to be higher than the fairlead centerline. You want the fairlead hole to be centered with the range of the winch line coming off the bottom of the spool.

[4Runner4Leon]

Originally Posted by AssBurns

Heck yes it is! I’ll make it work. There are still fenders to mount it to. It’ll work as intended 😉

That's the spirit! . Do let me know if you have any issues with the supplied hardware, we can whip up special brackets if needed.

[Berg cup]

These are the builds that make it worth coming to this web site. So much insight into products and how well they work or do not.

So happy that I stumbled across this build.

[clearock]

Originally Posted by AssBurns

Stock links are 20” and 11” long
New links are about 42” and 42.5” long


I will post more pics as I get further into things. If anyone wants any specific pictures or measurements, let me know.

Building a double Tri rear 4 link currently, going through all the math and placements, and had a few ?... anything u would have done diff now that u have to miles on said? why did u go with a .5" diff in length? how r the ballistic working out, the couple of peeps i talked with that ran said ended up removing... My exp is limited to johnny joints.

Ty 4 all the info u post up, every time i get an "idea" 2 mod my 4runner ur name pops up when i start researching... nice to not be the guinea pig sometimes

[AssBurns]

Originally Posted by clearock

Building a double Tri rear 4 link currently, going through all the math and placements, and had a few ?... anything u would have done diff now that u have to miles on said? why did u go with a .5" diff in length? how r the ballistic working out, the couple of peeps i talked with that ran said ended up removing... My exp is limited to johnny joints.

Ty 4 all the info u post up, every time i get an "idea" 2 mod my 4runner ur name pops up when i start researching... nice to not be the guinea pig sometimes

For the link lengths, I didn't purposely make them almost the same length. They just ended up working out that way with the geometry that I was shooting for. If I really wanted to I could've made them equal length, but I didn't feel it was necessary by any means.
For the joints, I am still a big fan of them. They are super easy to rebuild if needed (which I haven't needed yet), and they are very easy to tighten up as they start to wear, which hasn't been necessary besides right after breaking them in after the first trip.
As for doing things differently, there isn't a whole lot I'd change. I'd maybe lower the frame side lower links an inch and spread them apart an inch to lower the anti-squat a bit and keep the roll axis angle at a similar number to what I currently have.
I also designed things around the anticipation of having a rear sway bar to combat the understeer that a negative roll axis gives, but I've been a cheap ass and been lazy about doing that. I still need to get that done so I can get it dialed how I'd like.

I do have a Ford 9" axle that I am currently building and will be putting it under soon. Once I do that, I'll probably get picking up some 16" coilovers and a sway bar while I'm at it.

[clearock]

Originally Posted by AssBurns

I do have a Ford 9" axle that I am currently building and will be putting it under soon. Once I do that, I'll probably get picking up some 16" coilovers and a sway bar while I'm at it.

U going currie 4 ur 9" or building something urself? I looked into the curries and basic ford 9" when I found myself in need for something stronger but ended up going with a 07+ 5.7L tundra 10.5" and have been very happy with said, just an fyi, maybe something worth looking into, the $ a saved over currie, the strength of the 36 spine axles and 10.5" ring gear combined with good ground clearance (when compared to anything with the same strength) made it seem like the right thing to do. Currently trying to figure out how to rebuild the IFS around a 10.5. I am about to get some king 2.5 16" coilovers ordered 4 my new build.

[AssBurns]

Originally Posted by clearock

U going currie 4 ur 9" or building something urself? I looked into the curries and basic ford 9" when I found myself in need for something stronger but ended up going with a 07+ 5.7L tundra 10.5" and have been very happy with said, just an fyi, maybe something worth looking into, the $ a saved over currie, the strength of the 36 spine axles and 10.5" ring gear combined with good ground clearance (when compared to anything with the same strength) made it seem like the right thing to do. Currently trying to figure out how to rebuild the IFS around a 10.5. I am about to get some king 2.5 16" coilovers ordered 4 my new build.

Sorry for the late response. I don't come on here very often these days.

I'm using a junkyard 9" that I got from a buddy when I helped him do 4 link on his 4runner.
I went with Currie 35 spline axles, 4th gen brakes, ruff stuff truss, ballistic link brackets, and doing custom coilover and bypass mounts.

As for the Tundra 10.5", that seems like a solid axle to use. Super strong setup. Just not a very common axle to find, so I didn't even look around for one. Plus they are quite a bit wider than what I need. I think those are around 71-72 WMS. Ideally I'd like to sit around 66 or so in the rear but this axle ended up just shy of that at 65.625" WMS.


Got a build thread with some progress on things? I'd love to check it out.
I've been doing more current updates over here

[clearock]

Originally Posted by AssBurns

As for the Tundra 10.5", that seems like a solid axle to use. Super strong setup. Just not a very common axle to find, so I didn't even look around for one. Plus they are quite a bit wider than what I need. I think those are around 71-72 WMS. Ideally I'd like to sit around 66 or so in the rear but this axle ended up just shy of that at 65.625" WMS.


Got a build thread with some progress on things? I'd love to check it out.
I've been doing more current updates over here

Yeah, the stock housing width is wide, so I shortened the width myself. I used Dutchman axles to shorten and re-spline the axles themselves. Don't have a build thread.

[AssBurns]

Slowly making some more progress on things. @Konkordmusk is doing the motor swap for me. Once he buttons that whole thing up, I'll be picking it up and working on the cage, and front/rear long travel.

Also been working on Roberts 3rd gen the last couple months. Here's some progress of what we have going on.

Robert's Trailing Arm 4Runner (Down the Rabbit Hole) | IFS OFFROAD

[4runnerfiend]

should flip those headers and do some stacks.- Vision

[AssBurns]

Hahahah could you imagine. Snorkel on one side and stacks on the other.