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Elite Member
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pocono Mountains
Posts: 7,498
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Elite Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pocono Mountains
Posts: 7,498
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Yeah, you're out. It needs to be at zero degrees when the cams are on their marks. That is for VALVE timing.
The other spec is for IGNITION timing, and you read that with a stroboscopic timing light hooked to the No. 1 spark wire. (The exact spec is: Ignition timing w/ Terminals TE1 and E1 connected to DLC1 is 8 - 12° BTDC @ idle). This means with the strobe you will see the pulley mark move forward and back rapidly and continuously while the engine is running. NOTHING to do with valve timing). It varies continuously between these numbers, as opposed to being simply set to some single number in between the 8° and the 12°. Google valve timing and ignition timing to learn the difference--it's important.
But there are two possibilities, and you need to be sure which it is. One is that the pulley is misaligned on the crank by five degrees but the sprocket is correct. This happens when the crank pulley bolt is not tightened to the 213 ft-lb spec and the pulley starts to shift, shearing the Woodruff key. The pulley only engages a mere 1/4" or so of the key, so it can do this easily IF the bolt is loose. Almost all of the key is under the timing sprocket behind the pulley.
The second case is that the belt is off by a tooth on the cam pulleys. (If it was off on the tiny cam sprocket, it would be way more than five degrees.) The only way to tell, is to remove the pulley and inspect the woodruff key and the timing marks on the sprocket and on the block, as described in attachment posted above. If all is well with the woodruff key, you will need to reinstall the timing belt. This will require using a special tool to compress the tensioner, or removing it and compressing it in a vise. There are lots of DIY's on this.
The important thing to understand is that, if the pulley is slipping because the crank bolt is coming loose, bad things will happen, possibly very soon, which can ruin your harmonic damper, or worse, the nose of your crank, effectively killing your engine, as a whole new engine is cheaper than swapping a crank. It is probably not this, because it has been stable since January, but I sure would want to know for certain if it were mine. And it doesn't sound like you were certain it was that way in January.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
Last edited by TheDurk; 10-01-2015 at 01:24 AM.
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