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Old 11-15-2015, 06:29 PM #1
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May have broken some things .. help!

This weekend I tackled a lot of things:

OTRE, ITRE, LBJ, CV, Tundra Rotors & Calipers on each side.

I am having a few issues.

1) The brake pedal pressure is not there. I think this is because when bleeding the brakes, we pushed the pedal past the normal travel and may have hosed the master cylinder. Let me know if there are ways that you know of to troubleshoot this and possibly fix this without replacing the master cylinder. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

2) After I put the tires back on, I wanted to test out all of the new suspension components I installed. Obviously I will need an allignment ASAP. When I rolled out of the driveway something just didnt feel right. The front right wheel felt wobbly and like it was going to fall off. The whole ride seemed like it was floating compared to what it had been. There was the sensation that something was just going to snap at any second so I pulled over. I got out and looked at all of the connections and everything looked fine. Maybe its just in my head and It will all be fixed after an allignment? One of my CV's was broken before this so maybe that is why it feels different?

Is there anything that y'all can think of that could be an issue? I have posted several pics below and tried to give a detailed description of how the install went.


LBJ: Installation went well for the most part... installed all 4 bolts on both sides with blue loctite and torqued castle nut to spec on the bottom connecting it to the knuckle.

Note: there was one issue - I couldnt get the castle nut on one of the lbj's to tighten. The lbj seemed to spin with the nut as I tried to tighten it. I read somewhere that it would fix itself once i put the tire back on and it had some weight on it. It did not. Maybe I need to hit it with an impact wrench?

OTRE & ITRE: Installation went fine, Screwed the ITRE into the steering rack until the rack started to move with it. Felt like it was in the solid. ITRE screwed into OTRE fine and attached other end to LBJ with correct torque specs (~59ft/lbs)

CV: Both cv's went in fine. Attached both to diff and pulled on them and they felt like they were clicked in place. Inserted the spindle in through the knuckle and newly installed rotor & hit the axle nuts with an impact wrench. They both looked/felt nice and tight.

Rotors/ Calipers: After removing the old rotors, I slid the new rotors on. I dont think there is much else to this. As for the Calipers, they went on fine. Nothing to really report here.
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May have broken some things .. help!-image1-jpg  May have broken some things .. help!-image8-jpg  May have broken some things .. help!-image7-jpg  May have broken some things .. help!-image6-jpg  May have broken some things .. help!-image5-jpg  May have broken some things .. help!-image4-jpg  May have broken some things .. help!-image2-jpg 
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Old 11-15-2015, 06:38 PM #2
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Are you sure that you bled all the air out of the brakes? They are big calipers and take a lot of bleeding. For the LBJ did you actually get the nut on there and tightened or are you running with it just loosely on there? I've never heard of that issue.
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Old 11-15-2015, 06:45 PM #3
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Tundra caliber and rotors for me takes a little more to engage compared to stock. Once it grabs it stops on a dime though. I have about 1/2 of pedal play before it brakes and am pretty used to it. I bled my brakes 2 times and took it to a dealership before deciding nothing is wrong.
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Old 11-15-2015, 07:02 PM #4
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Quote:
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Are you sure that you bled all the air out of the brakes? They are big calipers and take a lot of bleeding. For the LBJ did you actually get the nut on there and tightened or are you running with it just loosely on there? I've never heard of that issue.

Yeah I bled them pretty good but I may try again.

I fixed the LBJ issue just now by hitting it with an impact wrench. Not sure why it was spinning with my breaker bar.

I just took it out for another test spin and at about 15mph the whole ride starts slightly bouncing up and down. Also, around turns I am hearing some rubbing.
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Old 11-15-2015, 07:07 PM #5
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Another thing to help the brake pedal feel is to go bed the brakes. Basically 6 or 7 60-5 mph slow downs as fast as you can without triggering ABS or locking up the brakes. Don't do this if you feel the brakes are unsafe though.

Did you count threads on the tie rods to try and get the alignment close? I'd get an alignment if you can safely get the truck there so that's ruled out.
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Old 11-15-2015, 09:42 PM #6
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Anyone telling you that the brakes will fill mushy after the tundra upgrade, hasn't bleed the brakes correctly. If after bleeding they still fill mushy, they need vacuum bleeding.
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Old 11-15-2015, 10:56 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unner View Post
Are you sure that you bled all the air out of the brakes? They are big calipers and take a lot of bleeding. For the LBJ did you actually get the nut on there and tightened or are you running with it just loosely on there? I've never heard of that issue.
I learned this the hard way. Since then I ask here first.
Thanks, Unner.
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Old 11-15-2015, 10:56 PM #8
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Get it aligned. Have them double check everything while they are down there. Those are simple parts to replace and hard to screw up. Double check the torque on everything and if it's all good then get it aligned. The mind has a funny way of playing tricks on you.
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Old 11-16-2015, 10:43 AM #9
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Turned out to just be the alignment. It was just WAY out. Anyway thanks for the advice guys. I couldn't have done any of this without this forum. Cheers!
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Old 11-16-2015, 06:09 PM #10
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What brand CVs did you use?
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Old 11-17-2015, 03:17 AM #11
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Did you not use a torque wrench on anything...?

Even if it rides well, the pieces that hold my front wheels on are something I'll torque to spec. Always.
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Old 11-17-2015, 03:35 AM #12
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you would be surprised at how poorly the front end will roll with a bad alignement. ive thought about making a jig with line lasers to check the alignment but have never done it, and it would be perfect for situations like this where the suspension is binding badly. if its really bad you could potentially use a compass to dial it in, and referance the frame.
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Old 11-17-2015, 11:23 AM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoots Magoon View Post
Anyone telling you that the brakes will fill mushy after the tundra upgrade, hasn't bleed the brakes correctly. If after bleeding they still fill mushy, they need vacuum bleeding.
You guys were right it just needed a few more rounds of bleeding. Bought $300 dollars worth of tools from harbor freight to vacuum bleed the brakes and attempt (failed attempt) to get a seized axle nut off. The no questions asked return policy is a beautiful thing.


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What brand CVs did you use?
I purchased re-manned OEM CVs. Only thing I didnt use OEM parts for was the ITRE. Went with Sankei 555s just because I didnt anticipate both ITREs to be so shot and had to pick them up in a hurry. Otherwise I would have gone OEM ( Killer Deal on OEM Inner Tie Rods! )


Quote:
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Did you not use a torque wrench on anything...?

Even if it rides well, the pieces that hold my front wheels on are something I'll torque to spec. Always.

I did use a torque wrench on everything except for the ITRE connection to the rack. When I said "I fixed the LBJ issue just now by hitting it with an impact wrench. Not sure why it was spinning with my breaker bar." I meant that I got the LBJ nut/bolt assembly to stop spinning by using a quick burst from the impact wrench. From there i torqued it to spec.
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Old 11-17-2015, 04:22 PM #14
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I purchased re-manned OEM CVs.
How much did these run you from the dealer?
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Old 11-17-2015, 04:26 PM #15
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How much did these run you from the dealer?

$155 per side but they charge a $75 core charge that you will get back after you ship them your old parts.

Toyota - REMANUFACTURED CV AXLE Part Number: 43430-35030-84
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