01-02-2016, 11:38 AM
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#1
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Join Date: Dec 2014
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To buy low mileage or high mileage, that is the question
Still on the hunt for 99-02 t4r. Have passed on several but a few have popped up here lately that have me scratching my head for some reason.
I have always said I wanted to buy the lowest mileage t4r I could find In excellent condition however nowadays with the Toyota tax being radically imposed on potential buyers there is a pretty large discrepancy in price ($3-5k) between higher (>200k) and lower mileage (<150k) t4r's depending on the seller.
For example, found the "holy grail" 😜 of t4rs the other day 1999 limited 4wd with 119k miles and RR diff lock for $9000 (not local). Then found a 98 limited 4wd (local) with 225k for $6000. While I know it's only $3000 difference the 99 limited is a 50% increase over the 98.
I will be driving quite a bit for work the next few years but I am anal about maintenance, etc. For the sake of discussion, Let's estimate 25k/year. Therefore for every 25k miles I save on the vehicle I am getting a year's worth of life out of the vehicle compared to a higher mileage t4r. So in theory the 99 limited has approximately 4 years of extra life on it that the 98 wouldn't because the 99 has 100k less miles. On the flip side, If I bought the 99 with as many miles as I drive I will definitely take a hit on the value of the 99 when I sell it because not only is it overpriced now but with the quick accumulation of miles The 99 will take a hit on the value at some point.
So here is the question, buy a lower mileage but more expensive t4r and take a hit on the value when I sell or buy a higher mileage t4r and potentially have less driving life out of it but take much less of a hit on value when I sell down the road because I bought it at a cheaper price? My practical side likes the idea of driving a car for "free" (minus maintenance) if you could sell for roughly what you purchased after driving for a few years. Not sure that would happen but just thinking out loud....
Yes I know the 3.4 will run forever if you take car of it but at some point these engines wear out and one must move on so I guess something else to consider is what is the max life folks are getting out of their 3.4? I have only seen a few go beyond the 300k mark.
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01-02-2016, 11:54 AM
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#2
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: CO
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The 3.4 is stout and can go well over 300k. Issue is high mileage everything will need addressed other than motor. Bought mine at 180k and ended up doing lots of work. All suspension needed replaced, brakes, radiator, all steering components including ball joints, itres, otres, steering rack, upper lower ball joints, rear axle seals, tcase seal, and lots of other stuff.
Always go low mileage if you can. Saves you not only money but time labor and headaches down the road.
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1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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01-02-2016, 01:15 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Oregon
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"1999 limited 4wd with 119k miles and RR diff lock for $9000"
Got a link?
I am in the same boat as you are, and am looking for '99-'00 with 100K miles - 160K miles. Everything in my area is absolutely inflated so i'll be definitely be paying in the 8K - 10K range. Maintenance is a pretty big deal to me... if the previous owner has a good track record than it's a go.
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01-02-2016, 03:17 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayRolla
The 3.4 is stout and can go well over 300k. Issue is high mileage everything will need addressed other than motor. Bought mine at 180k and ended up doing lots of work. All suspension needed replaced, brakes, radiator, all steering components including ball joints, itres, otres, steering rack, upper lower ball joints, rear axle seals, tcase seal, and lots of other stuff.
Always go low mileage if you can. Saves you not only money but time labor and headaches down the road.
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Thanks for getting me back on track. Agreed
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01-02-2016, 03:28 PM
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#5
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i DISAGREE!
Quote:
Originally Posted by DDeezenuts
Thanks for getting me back on track. Agreed
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I bought mine at 176K miles and the things I did so far: (Now at 206K miles)
T-Belt/water pump
Radiator (just to avoid pink milkshake)
Fan clutch (for no reason)
Fan bracket
Coolant/Oil all around
Rear Drive shaft
CV boot
Fuel filter
Lower Ball joint (Just for the peace of mind)
Valve cover gasket
Spark plugs
PCV
That's about it.
Everything else in the truck is tight and firm.
I will buy a 4runner that has 230-240K miles without any doubt (with maintenance records). With 300K+ miles, yes, you will expect to replace, bearings/alternator/starter things like that.
Last edited by nissanh; 01-02-2016 at 03:31 PM.
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01-02-2016, 03:45 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Oct 2011
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Real Name: Ed
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Resale value wasn't even on my mind when I bought mine, I saw low-ish mileage (10-11k miles driven per year),clean chassis and everything else which sealed the deal. If you want to "flip" vehicles for a decent profit buy a compact import car like a Civic or Integra.
If those two you looked at are at about the same visual condition (chassis,paint,intereior) but the cheaper,higher mileage '98 had a lot of maintenance and mechanical repairs (like alternator,steering rack,etc) and the more expensive lower mileage '99 had nothing done, I'd go with the '98. That $3k saved could be used for upgrades/future repairs. If both had the similar maintenance/repair history go low mileage.
Last edited by Ed_C; 01-02-2016 at 03:48 PM.
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01-02-2016, 05:04 PM
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#7
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Knoxville, TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayRolla
The 3.4 is stout and can go well over 300k. Issue is high mileage everything will need addressed other than motor. Bought mine at 180k and ended up doing lots of work. All suspension needed replaced, brakes, radiator, all steering components including ball joints, itres, otres, steering rack, upper lower ball joints, rear axle seals, tcase seal, and lots of other stuff.
Always go low mileage if you can. Saves you not only money but time labor and headaches down the road.
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On the flip side, my '99 had 184k (11k miles/yr avg) when I bought it in late October 2015 for $6200. In relatively perfect condition - no maintenance required, no oil consumption, excellent fuel mileage and exceptional body condition. Michelin LTX tires had 70% tread. So, no additional funds needed to bring it into proper condition. Will need a new TB in 20k miles - maybe.
I won't put 10k miles a year on mine so am calculating adding 120k (300k mile target) in about 10 years - that's just a $620/yr. amortization with a 25 year potential lifespan. Dirt cheap.
For a 25k mile per year requirement, what is each year worth to you?
Here's a simple breakdown for four years of ownership:
At $6000 cash, it's just $1500/yr. Pretty cheap ride.
At $8000 cash, you're still only paying $2000 per year.
At $30,000 for a late model 'runner, you would spend $7500/yr - plus interest!
That's how I determine my decision - mileage vs. usable years. Maintenance is the real intangible - one serious repair can elevate all these costs but for a $6-$8000 investment it still beats buying a newer vehicle every time. If my '99 ever blows its engine or tranny beyond repair, I'll just part it out and start over.
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2003 Tundra | 1999 4Runner Limited 4WD | 2011 Mazda CX-7 Sport
Last edited by Bstrom; 01-02-2016 at 05:18 PM.
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01-02-2016, 06:21 PM
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#8
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I own two 3rd Gens and this is what I looked for in both truck. Maint Records!
My 99 had 198 on the clock but it had every single oil change record in it. hell it even had the shipping invoice from Japan.
My 01 was from a member on the forum. Enough said about that. It was a 137,000 mile truck.
In reality I really have not done much to either truck other than personal stuff I like and Mods.
A new battery here and Alt in one of them. the older one I did lower intake gaskets and valve cover gaskets on etc. Also replaced a Radiator. Its all easy stuff.
Just look for a truck that has been cared for and not beat to piss and you will be good.
Blue
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01-02-2016, 06:57 PM
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#9
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When buying a toyota, maintenance history and condition trumps mileage. I'd buy a high-mile truck with the options I want without hesitation as long as I have some evidence or at least a strong suspicion that it was well cared for. My current beater has 310k miles and runs like a top.
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1984 Toy Longbed 4x4: lifted, locked, incapable of highway speed
1985 FJ60: OME, 33's, Lockright, Rust
1997 4Runner SR5: Rolled , 1999 4runner SR5: V6, 5-speed, e-locker, 285's, SS 1.2
1988 FJ62: TBI 350, 700r4, FF rear, ARB locked F/R, almost no rust!
1996 Lexus LX450: Factory locked front & rear, OME lift, and a salvage title
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01-02-2016, 07:10 PM
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#10
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I am a firm believer in owning multiple vehicles. Buy a higher milage 4runner and put most of your milage on a high mpg commuter car. You will pay a little more up front for 2 vehicles, but your gas cost will make up for it and your flexibility with having another vehicle is a great thing. If you are going to put 25k miles a year on a vehicle do it to one you don't have an attachment too.
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01-02-2016, 11:09 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by St Runner
If you are going to put 25k miles a year on a vehicle do it to one you don't have an attachment too.
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This is the ideal situation...you like Civics?
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Bstrom of Powell, TN
2003 Tundra | 1999 4Runner Limited 4WD | 2011 Mazda CX-7 Sport
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01-03-2016, 12:19 AM
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#12
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: St. Thomas, ON. Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDeezenuts
.............For example, found the "holy grail" �� of t4rs the other day 1999 limited 4wd with 119k miles and RR diff lock for $9000 (not local). Then found a 98 limited 4wd (local) with 225k for $6000. While I know it's only $3000 difference the 99 limited is a [B]
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These gen3's are 15 years old now - how often does one find the holy grail in 4x4's, with the big bonus of low mileage ??
^^ Not often - so a 50% $$ premium, is chicken feed...in the grand scheme of SUV ownership.
- if you purchase the high mile cheaper one & save $3,000 / you will always regret it
I just bought a one owner/rust free/factory paint, 2000 4Runner, 4x4 auto (SR5, no E-locker ) with 80,000 original miles (129,500 Km).
- and gladly paying 50% over book value / still a 20 cents on the dollar purchase, compared to buying brand new / with zero interest payments
- fully maintained at a Lexus/Toyota dealership
- I live in a Canadian rust belt, up here its a once in a life time find locally / without searching out of province or state side
Pistons, cylinder walls, cams, crankshaft, valves, etc. all wear with added miles / always go with low miles, and pay the price...cheaper in the end.
- that's why I also run AMSOIL true synthetic, when I get a vehicle I'm keeping, for a long time & wax-oil spray undercoat, with Fluid Film
Last edited by Beaumont67; 01-03-2016 at 12:49 AM.
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01-03-2016, 12:52 AM
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#13
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Y'all are way over thinking this. It's a 16yr old mass produced vehicle. Paying more than $5000 is a waste of money. These aren't collector cars. I bought mine with 218k miles for $3700. I drive 20-25k miles a year. Buy it cheap, do maintenance, save the money. It's as simple as that.
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01-03-2016, 07:59 AM
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#14
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So, basically what the consensus is if you can't or don't want to afford a secondary daily driver car (think camry/ civic) and the 4RNR is your daily driver (which is a good daily driver) buy one with the most maintenance records available that fits your budget. These are lifestyle vehicles so we often pay more than we should due to the numerous reasons listed throughout the forums. Enjoy your search but don't let the search for the holy grail consume you......
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2013 4RNR Trail- TOYO Open Country 285's, Konig Six Shooter Graphite Gunmetal, Shrockworks Powder Coated Front Bumper, Ramsey 8000lb Winch, Shrockworks Skids (E/T/T), Radflow Front Coil Overs, Bilstein 1500 Rear, Front Diff Drop, Odyssey battery, Front/Rear Diff Breather (ARB), ARB Twin AC (engine mount with tank), sPod, OPOR Sliders and we'll see what is next
1999 SR5 4x4- Sold
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01-03-2016, 08:26 AM
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#15
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Banned
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDeezenuts
For example, found the "holy grail" of t4rs the other day 1999 limited 4wd with 119k miles and RR diff lock for $9000 (not local). Then found a 98 limited 4wd (local) with 225k for $6000. While I know it's only $3000 difference the 99 limited is a 50% increase over the 98.
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There's a lot of factors that come into play here. Unless the 98 has already had a lot of things done to it, you'll likely burn through a lot of the $3k getting it back into shape. At 225k you're going to want to do a full suspension overhaul (shocks, struts, springs, bushings, tie rods, and ball joints), and then flush all the fluids.
Now, if you're planning on lifting it no matter which one you buy, that negate some of that.
Personally I'd go for the lower mileage. There's just that much less history that you need to worry about. These are great trucks, but they're not indestructible. I'm looking at having to tear the rear end apart on mine right now to replace a pinion bearing, or swap the whole third member.
If you pick one up with 225k on it, you may get another 100k out of it before something major happens, or you may not. If you pick one up with 120k on it, you'll almost certainly get another 100k out of it before something major happens.
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