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Old 04-24-2020, 03:42 PM #16
phattyduck phattyduck is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc View Post
Also, some years have a little one-way valve on the booster vacuum hosing that I think goes to the 4WD VSV. These little guys have been know to fail once in a while and cause bad pedal feel. Easy to check them, just take it out and blow in it, air should pass through one way and not the other.
All of the vacuum booster 4Runners (2WD or 4WD) have a 1-way valve to the booster (actually, all modern vacuum boosters have valves, sometimes internal to the booster assembly). That's what holds vacuum for a couple brake applications if the engine turns off while driving.

There is a separate 1-way valve for the ADD vacuum system, that's the little black/blue thing in the vacuum line down to the ADD VSVs. There is also the vacuum reservoir in the fender well to help with ADD switching. That's only on the pre-01 4Runners.

-Charlie
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Old 09-28-2020, 10:55 AM #17
jack.hanks02 jack.hanks02 is offline
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2001 here - I was about to follow the advice in the first few posts, but I'm wondering if those are specific to 96-00?

I cannot find a definitive method for my '01 without buying or making bleeding tools.

Thanks
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Old 01-17-2021, 03:50 PM #18
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Took your suggestion and it seemed to work for me.

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Originally Posted by JudeThaddeus View Post
Actually, it does matter. I tried 4 times bleeding my brakes after fixing a bad rear wheel bearing using the farthest to closest method. Every time my breaks still sucked. I then read an excerpt from the FSM that you start with the FR and move to the FL. After that, you move to the rear. All of this is done with the vehicle running and after bleeding off the power booster by pumping the brakes with the engine off before bleeding.
Know what, my brakes feel great after having crappy brakes. I actually have confidence that I'll stop while breaking now.
I had the same problem as you did so I took your suggestion and it seemed to work for me too. It makes sense to start from the front with the engine running as the fluid will be moving through the master cylinder and ABS pump first so if you have any air in the ABS or Master it should be expelled first through the front brakes rather than having to make the long trip to the back brakes and possibly not making it out the bleeder valve if not enough fluid was moved. At least it seems like it to me. Some OBDII code readers will cycle the ABS and bleed the brakes for you but, that function is not supported on the 3rd Gens.
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Old 01-17-2021, 04:54 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jack.hanks02 View Post
2001 here - I was about to follow the advice in the first few posts, but I'm wondering if those are specific to 96-00?

I cannot find a definitive method for my '01 without buying or making bleeding tools.

Thanks
Read the thread, specifically my post #9. Yours will be the same as the 2002 FSM I linked.
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