Hey Tim, just wanted to say your videos and posts on this forum have been quite helpful. Thanks for your hard-work.
I have a question about bleeding brakes. With the 2001-2002 4Runners being equipped with the brake booster gizmo device, are you supposed to leave the ignition in the "on" position while bleeding the rear brakes? And, should I leave the master cylinder cap on while I am bleeding the brakes, or leave it off?
And, as far as brake fluid goes, is the Toyota brake fluid the same grade that's at the auto parts store? Would I be fine with going with generic DOT 3?
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Last edited by ToyotaBrah; 12-29-2016 at 12:49 PM.
Hey Tim, just wanted to say your videos and posts on this forum have been quite helpful. Thanks for your hard-work.
I have a question about bleeding brakes. With the 2001-2002 4Runners being equipped with the brake booster gizmo device, are you supposed to leave the ignition in the "on" position while bleeding the rear brakes? And, should I leave the master cylinder cap on while I am bleeding the brakes, or leave it off?
And, as far as brake fluid goes, is the Toyota brake fluid the same grade that's at the auto parts store? Would I be fine with going with generic DOT 3?
Yes, for the 01-02 models have the ignition key in the "on" position to power the brake booster. Start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work your way back towards the master cylinder. So, bleed the passenger rear first, then the driver rear, then the passenger front and finally the driver front.
We kept the master cylinder cap on. It just made sense since that's how the system operates normally. When people use power bleeders, they're connecting to where the cap connects too, closing off the system, so again, it seems more logical to have the system closed off here. Does it make a difference? Probably not. What you definitely want to avoid is draining the master cylinder of fluid and now you are forced to go through the procedure to bleed the master cylinder of air. Just keep an eye on the master cylinder while doing the bleeding and keep topping it off.
Make sure you give detailed instructions to anyone helping you with the brake pedal pumping and holding. They need to pump the pedal, hold pressure, and then you open the bleeder. As the pedal sinks to the floor, they hold the pedal down until you close off the bleeder and tell them to pump the pedal again. If they lift the pedal while you have the bleeder open, you can then suck air back into the system.
Any Dot 3 is find in my book. You don't have to use Toyota brake fluid.
Good luck!
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
Yes, for the 01-02 models have the ignition key in the "on" position to power the brake booster. Start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work your way back towards the master cylinder. So, bleed the passenger rear first, then the driver rear, then the passenger front and finally the driver front.
We kept the master cylinder cap on. It just made sense since that's how the system operates normally. When people use power bleeders, they're connecting to where the cap connects too, closing off the system, so again, it seems more logical to have the system closed off here. Does it make a difference? Probably not. What you definitely want to avoid is draining the master cylinder of fluid and now you are forced to go through the procedure to bleed the master cylinder of air. Just keep an eye on the master cylinder while doing the bleeding and keep topping it off.
Make sure you give detailed instructions to anyone helping you with the brake pedal pumping and holding. They need to pump the pedal, hold pressure, and then you open the bleeder. As the pedal sinks to the floor, they hold the pedal down until you close off the bleeder and tell them to pump the pedal again. If they lift the pedal while you have the bleeder open, you can then suck air back into the system.
Any Dot 3 is find in my book. You don't have to use Toyota brake fluid.
Good luck!
Just to add:
DO NOT let the pedal go to the floor
I usually put my left foot underneath the pedal to stop it from going too far.
If you do let it hit the floor, you run the risk of rupturing the plunger inside your master cylinder. Just speaking from experience, and as expensive as those masters can be, it only took me one time to learn that.
Just to add:
DO NOT let the pedal go to the floor
I usually put my left foot underneath the pedal to stop it from going too far.
If you do let it hit the floor, you run the risk of rupturing the plunger inside your master cylinder. Just speaking from experience, and as expensive as those masters can be, it only took me one time to learn that.
I've heard of this happening but never experienced it. Maybe it's a case of the master cylinder being on its way out anyway. It's also interesting to note the FSM mentions nothing about not letting the pedal fall all the way to the floor when bleeding the brakes. Anyway, I guess it doesn't hurt to do this extra precaution.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
Yes, for the 01-02 models have the ignition key in the "on" position to power the brake booster. Start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work your way back towards the master cylinder. So, bleed the passenger rear first, then the driver rear, then the passenger front and finally the driver front.
We kept the master cylinder cap on. It just made sense since that's how the system operates normally. When people use power bleeders, they're connecting to where the cap connects too, closing off the system, so again, it seems more logical to have the system closed off here. Does it make a difference? Probably not. What you definitely want to avoid is draining the master cylinder of fluid and now you are forced to go through the procedure to bleed the master cylinder of air. Just keep an eye on the master cylinder while doing the bleeding and keep topping it off.
Make sure you give detailed instructions to anyone helping you with the brake pedal pumping and holding. They need to pump the pedal, hold pressure, and then you open the bleeder. As the pedal sinks to the floor, they hold the pedal down until you close off the bleeder and tell them to pump the pedal again. If they lift the pedal while you have the bleeder open, you can then suck air back into the system.
Any Dot 3 is find in my book. You don't have to use Toyota brake fluid.
Good luck!
Awesome. Thank you, Tim!
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkamisPrime
Just to add:
DO NOT let the pedal go to the floor
I usually put my left foot underneath the pedal to stop it from going too far.
If you do let it hit the floor, you run the risk of rupturing the plunger inside your master cylinder. Just speaking from experience, and as expensive as those masters can be, it only took me one time to learn that.
I've heard of this happening but never experienced it. Maybe it's a case of the master cylinder being on its way out anyway. It's also interesting to note the FSM mentions nothing about not letting the pedal fall all the way to the floor when bleeding the brakes. Anyway, I guess it doesn't hurt to do this extra precaution.
If the MC is no more than ten years old, putting the pedal to the floor isn't bad. Anything older and one could be in trouble. The pedal just isn't used to the long travel.
I have to ask if you and Sean have considered replacing the rear main seal as well?
If the MC is no more than ten years old, putting the pedal to the floor isn't bad. Anything older and one could be in trouble. The pedal just isn't used to the long travel.
I have to ask if you and Sean have considered replacing the rear main seal as well?
I was actually thinking about this the other day that it would be really smart to do the rear main seal while we have the transmission out. I was also thinking it would be smart to replace the input shaft seal on the transfer case. I thought I heard at one point on the forum that you can develop a leak between the transmission and transfer case and it's usually the seal leaking on the transfer case. Does this sound right? I don't have my FSM to with me to reference because I'm at work and didn't bring it with me for some light reading.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
I think I have seen one or two threads on the leaking transfer case seal over seven years; someone such as The_Durk who has been around longer may remember. BFAD did a nice write up on one of the seals for the transfer case that was leaking for him, cannot remember which one it was.
I'd do the main seal all day. Rear Main Seal
http://www.ttora.com/forum/2-early-tacoma-tech/155981-$1-450-rear-main-seal.html
I think I have seen one or two threads on the leaking transfer case seal over seven years; someone such as The_Durk who has been around longer may remember. BFAD did a nice write up on one of the seals for the transfer case that was leaking for him, cannot remember which one it was.
I'd do the main seal all day. Rear Main Seal
http://www.ttora.com/forum/2-early-tacoma-tech/155981-$1-450-rear-main-seal.html
Your vids have been a great help to me, followed the valve cover, LBJ, suspension lift and the steering rack bushing ones. Getting ready to do the TBU. Please do one for rebuilding the Tundra brake calipers.
Your vids have been a great help to me, followed the valve cover, LBJ, suspension lift and the steering rack bushing ones. Getting ready to do the TBU. Please do one for rebuilding the Tundra brake calipers.
Happy New Year.
That's not a bad idea for a video. Thanks!
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
Your vids have been a great help to me, followed the valve cover, LBJ, suspension lift and the steering rack bushing ones. Getting ready to do the TBU. Please do one for rebuilding the Tundra brake calipers.
Happy New Year.
speedy's garage has a great how to youtube video on how to rebuild the caliper...
the hardest part is removing the pistons from the caliper as they can get stuck...
pressured air is how i got mine out.
__________________ 1998 Desert Dune Toyota 4runner Limited 4x4 w/ factory e-locker 2000 BLACK Toyota 4runner Limited 4x4 w/ factory e-lockerBuild Thread 2002 Thundercloud Metalic Toyota 4runner Limited 4x4 Build Thread
Thanks for the tacoma whip video. Getting ready to do this and was putting it off because I didn't want to break the fender guard tabs. Looks like there is no other way to get them off though.
Thanks for the tacoma whip video. Getting ready to do this and was putting it off because I didn't want to break the fender guard tabs. Looks like there is no other way to get them off though.
Yea man, just take off the least amount of them as you can. They were only like a dollar at the stealership so it's not a big deal.
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