Hey Dudes,

This video shows you how to check your engine ignition timing and also shows you how you can do an inspection of your timing belt.

My 2001 4Runner died on me while driving home today. I tried to start it but it wouldn't even crank ( No click from relay). I tried again 10 minutes later and it started right up. No codes and it is running normal now. Any ideas on what it might be?

I would start with simple things like checking your battery terminal connections making sure they are clean, free of corrosion and tight. Make sure your battery is properly braced and not sliding around. Check to make sure your grounds are also free of corrosion and tight. There's no doubt this is an electrical problem and the fact it's intermittent sounds like a bad connection.

Hi guys, I am really sorry for what is going to be a majorly n00b post. I recently acquired a 2000 SR5 2WD from my father. He has taken reasonably good care of the car. It has 176,000 miles on it and I would like to take it as far as it can go.

The problem is that I am not very knowledgeable about cars.

Basically, I just want to know what sort of preventative maintenance I should undergo in order to make sure everything is on the up and up. I really don't want to get hosed by a dealer, but it's going to be a stretch for me to do much past very basic repairs.

I recently put new tires on it, got the oil changed, and had the serpentine belt replaced (it broke on me).

I do not believe the timing belt or water pump has ever been replaced. Should I ensure replacements of these parts occur? Further, during the oil change the mechanic told me that the brake pads and rotors should be replaced (for $311 + tax) and that the inner tie rods have "extra movement" and could be replaced (for $368 + tax). Are these reasonable repairs?

Any other preventative procedures I should have done? Thank you everyone for your wealth of knowledge.

Our videos will get you very far if you're willing to invest in some tools and have the patience to do your own wrenching. It doesn't matter if you haven't wrenched much in the past. This is something you can learn if you're willing. Replacing rotors and pads is simple. You could use our Tundra Brake Upgrade video to see mostly how to do this job. Since you're not replacing calipers, you would first want to suck some of the brake fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir because you'll need to compress the caliper pistons in fully so you can fit the new pads in and that brake fluid needs somewhere to go. Sucking some out will prevent you from overflowing your reservoir. To compress the caliper pistons back in, you could a large channel locks. You keep the brake pad in on the side you're compressing and put a rag between the channel lock jaws and the caliper to protect the caliper from being gouged by the serrated teeth. Once you have the pistons of the both sides of the calipers retracted, you can put the caliper back on and insert the pads like we show in the TBU video. I recommend you go with OEM Toyota pads. You can reuse the shims and hopefully somebody didn't remove them on a previous brake job. As for rotors, going OEM Toyota is a little pricey so you could save some money by buying some premium ones from Napa. But, your rotors can most likely be resurfaced at a machine or auto shop that has a brake lathe and you can save yourself some money and keep your OEM Toyota rotors if that's what's still on the rig. I'm guessing that the $311 quote is not for OEM replacement parts but you could ask them to make sure. If they are actually using Toyota rotors and pads, the price they gave you is actually a very fair price.

As for the inner tie rods, are you noticing anything weird with your steering? Shops lots of times will recommend things that don't necessarily need doing. OEM inner tie rods are very pricey. But, if you wanted to replace them yourself, we have a video for that as well. It does take special tools though. With the high price of inner tie rods, if it were me, I'd just replace the whole steering rack which comes with new inner tie rods. A whole new steering rack with the inner tie rods is $560 (online pricing from Camelback Toyota). The inner tie rods are $160 each, total $320. Knowing what OEM tie rods run, I'm also doubting the price they quoted you is for OEM replacement parts. But, something tells me this isn't a job that you have to do right now.

Go through our video library and you'll find lots of helpful information. I would suggest you start with our 30,000 mile service video. The lighting for that video is a little poor but you'll see how to renew all the fluids on your rig, grease your driveshaft, inspect your brakes and replace the air filter.

I could go on and on but I'm getting tired of typing. Spend the time doing some research and ask questions when you get stuck. I hope you take on the challenge of doing your own wrenching because you'll learn a lot and save yourself a ton of money.

I don't think anyone has answered this yet, but yes you should prioritize having the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump replaced sooner than later.

really helpful thank you

Thank you everyone for your replies!

I do have one or two more questions... while I am trying to quickly learn so that I can do these repairs myself going forward, necessity dictates that I utilize a mechanic for this full overhaul at the moment.

Here is what has been done and what I am having done on Tuesday on my 2000 Auto 2WD SR5. It has 179k miles on it, and none of the below have ever been touched:

Inner tie rods replaced (Sorry Tim, happened before your post!) - DONE
New rotors + pads - DONE
Timing belt replacement - TUES
Water pump replacement - TUES
Spark plug replacement - TUES
Radiator replacement - TUES

The total is going to be about $1700, including parts + labor. My question is this: Is there anything else I should have the mechanic look while all this is getting done? Also, should any of these parts definitely be OEM or is whatever they use going to be okay? Anything I can do to decrease cost (buy parts myself)?

I have heard that maybe the lower ball joints should be replaced, but it's been a pavement warrior her whole life. Unnecessary? The ride is quite rough - should I look into new shocks?

Unfortunately, because me and my girlfriend work from home, this is our only car. I don't have any mechanical skills and we need it to run and run for a long while, which necessitates the use of a mechanic for the time being.

Any advice would be very much appreciated.

Ball Joints should be replaced with OEM Toyota ball joints regardless of how the truck was used. It is a stressed part that is common to fail and when it does it can cause a chain reaction of damage.

Check your tire pressure. I would make sure it is 32 or so and not max psi which some shops do. High psi can cause a rough ride. These trucks tend to ride rather plush even with worn shocks.

Hoo boy... What is that going to run me?

Thanks!

if its an 86 itll be ifs so its the same front suspension, same rear diffs just the first gen will be leaf rears, the only width difference is between solid axle and ifs models, ifs is wider by about 3 i think

if its an 86 itll be ifs so its the same front suspension, same rear diffs just the first gen will be leaf rears, the only width difference is between solid axle and ifs models, ifs is wider by about 3 i think

If I could get a quick tip for doing a brake fluid bleed.
Following your vid got to the step where you loosed the fitting and began letting the fluid out. However, the fitting on the back of the rear drum is very rusted and I could not get it to budge (tried both left and right). I hit it with plenty of WD40 and let it soak, and still could not get it loose to begin bleeding the line. Im afraid that if I put too much pressure on it I will sheer the fitting off the drum giving me a whole new realm of problems.

I'm using a standard wrench, unlike the one that you use in the video.

Any tips on how to get this thing loose? Thanks!

Dont use a regular wrench. Get a crow's foot socket set from harbor freight. They seem to fit snugger than the more expensive ones I have. Soak with pb blaster or 50/50 atf/acetone. Normally you would heat it with a torch but I dont know if that's recommended here.

Like Mark already said, don't use a regular open end wrench on this. Try a penetrating oil like Kroil or PB Blaster and definitely use a flare nut wrench. If you find even with using a flare nut wrench you're not getting anywhere and it feels like it's going to strip, stop and apply a little heat to the bleeder with a butane torch. Apply some more penetrating oil and give it another try. If it's just not happening to get the bleeder loose without stripping the head of the bleeder, you might just have to get on it with a pair of vice grips or channel locks and get it loose. You should be able to buy replacement bleeders for the wheel cylinders. Worst case scenario, you replace the wheel cylinders.