If you have a clutch pedal that's feeling a bit sloppy, it might be time to renew some of the wear parts and possibly the clutch pedal itself. This video shows you how to remove the clutch pedal assembly from the rig, replace all the wear parts, and get it reinstalled.
This was very helpful. Excellent video. I'd add a few notes:
The wear on my clutch pedal assembly was so bad, I ended up having to replace the pedal and the pedal bracket above it. That bracket part is as follows:
55107-35050 - Support Sub Assembly Clutch pedal
It was $97 through McGeorge Toyota, but I would have rather not used it than have realized I needed it halfway through the repair (which is what happened).
There's a small bushing in the middle of the pedal arm for the clevis pin, and it's easy to miss. I think the video mentions it in passing. I pushed it out with a small socket and transferred it over to the new pedal. Without transferring it, the pedal will feel loose. If anyone needs the part, it's as follows:
90386-08002 - Bush
As others have mentioned in other threads, you can do this repair without disconnecting the lines to the clutch master cylinder or the clutch master cylinder itself. That said, A. Be really careful not to stress the lines. And B. This means you must carefully thread the new gasket through from the side of the foot well and onto the two bolts.
It is possible to do this repair without removing the evap canister, but you'll spend far more time working around it than it would have taken to remove it. Just remove it like the video suggests.
I 3D printed the bushings with the toughest plastic available to me, which is almost certainly tougher than the stock parts. The modeling was done by another forum user:
The repair, while successful, seems to have altered the geometry such that one of my clutch pedal sensors (round white button) no longer depresses fully when the pedal is released. This means my cruise control stopped working. There's a threaded bolt to adjust it, so I have to get under there and fix it. I just wish I had noticed it before putting back in the assembly.
The main spring is difficult to get back into the assembly, but found it easier to do with my hands than with a tool. A bench vice is a must, as the video states. I used soft grips to keep from damaging any clamped parts.
What’s the benefit to i this radiator over oem? I need a new radiator so maybe this is the way to go? My old one sprung a leak at 178,000 miles.
This is what the manufacturer states as the benefit compared to the OEM radiator design.
Koyorad is proud to introduce an all-aluminum performance radiator for the 1996-2002 Toyota 4Runner (3rd Generation). This radiator features Koyorad's NFLO triple pass technology which directs coolant in three directions through the radiator. Internal partitions are strategically placed to promote complete core coverage for improved efficiency over the Original Manufacturer style single pass radiator configuration. In addition, the core thickness has been increased to 36mm, a 44% increase over the Original Manufacturer unit and utilizes Koyorad's high density tubes and fins to boost the vehicle's heat capacity and endurance under extreme use. Factory fans, AC condenser, Original Manufacturer coolant hoses and Original Manufacturer mounting provisions are retained, requiring no modifications. Koyorad's advanced engineering and design methods, impeccable TIG welds, proficiency in furnace brazing, and triple pressure testing for quality has earned their excellent reputation in performance cooling worldwide.
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
I know a good radiator shop that fixed several tractor radiators for me, but if I can get another 178,000 miles I think I would call it quits on this 02.
It looks like it’s about 3x as much as OEM. If you plan to sell the 4Runner in 5 years or less, would you go for the upgrade? Full disclosure I may be replacing heads or head gaskets.
I think if you've got a situation that warrants it, a bigger radiator with more passages makes total sense.
The reason I said bling and reparability is I think for 99.99% of 4runner owners, the cheaper stock radiator is more than sufficient. I run mine up a steep mountain grade in 115 degree weather, and run through desert washes in the same temps. I monitor my temps and haven't seen a need for a bigger radiator.
I did put a larger aluminum champion radiator in my Sequoia for towing a trailer in the summers, and that helped. (And I also like the bling)
I think if you've got a situation that warrants it, a bigger radiator with more passages makes total sense.
The reason I said bling and reparability is I think for 99.99% of 4runner owners, the cheaper stock radiator is more than sufficient. I run mine up a steep mountain grade in 115 degree weather, and run through desert washes in the same temps. I monitor my temps and haven't seen a need for a bigger radiator.
I did put a larger aluminum champion radiator in my Sequoia for towing a trailer in the summers, and that helped. (And I also like the bling)
This is interesting. Do you have anything on the front of your rig that restricts air flow, like an aftermarket steel bumper and winch?
__________________ "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it!"
That's in excellent point. I do but have those, but they're in the garage on the floor. They'll be installed here shortly both. I'll keep an eye on that next summer though.
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