Dude, I was hoping our video on the subject would prevent this from happening. You really should have used some heat and maybe smacked the plug a couple times with a hammer. Before just going to town with another extractor, heat up around that plug for a good amount of time. What gets stuck is the bond of that copper washer to the plug. With the right amount of heat, you will get it out. If the extractor doesn't work, try the hammer and chisel technique we talk about in the video.

Another "trick" is to hold as much force as possible (without the tool jumping out of the fastener and rounding it off in the first place) for as long as possible. From a strictly Technical point of view the following is False, but in practice it's true:

Torque is Cumulative, or torque = pressure(force) x time

That boils down to you being able to loosen stuck fasteners by just applying as much force as You, or the Fastener, can manage and continue to apply that force for as long as you have the strength to do so. This works on any fastener, so for any of you motorcyclists who've buggered up the chocolate-head screws that hold the top of the master cylinder on, that is the Exact thing where I was shown this tip and it works beautifully.

I don't even own an impact because this technique works with the hand-tools I already own and has proven to be so effective that I simply haven't found a reason to shell out the cash for more tools (air or electric gun, impact sockets/extensions/wobbles, etc...) If nothing else, it's a handy trick for hard-to-reach spots where that stuff simply won't fit.

Add in heat and shocking the threads as needed, and Bob will be your uncle 999 times out of 1,000.

I was sure I seen a video with you talking about the problem. I watched the 30k service video before starting and figured I had got confused with another post/video since it looked easy in that video. I tried hammering a bit but with a rubber mallet (so I didn’t wake the neighbors since it was before sunrise). Doubt that did anything. Pb blaster did nothing either. I thought about grabbing my torch but decided it would take way more to heat the diff up. Will try again tomorrow morning hopefully the mapp gas Burnzomatic is hot enough. can’t believe I missed that vid this morning. Thanks

I tried 2x. Completely broke my 18in 3/8 breaker bar and gave up. Transfer case oil was easy so I tried 1 last time. Used up the rest of the mapp gas drove up the curb for more room for leverage and used an adapter on my 2ft 1/2 breaker. Stepped on it head a crack and felt give. Figured I broke the adapter or something. Checked and seen plug finally broke free! Thanks for the help and encouragement. Saved me $ from paying a shop to remove

Good job persevering and getting that damn plug out. Don't torque it to the FSM spec. Just use your best judgement and get it snug with a 3/8" ratchet. You will thank yourself the next time you have to remove it.

^^^This. I had to remove another stuck plug (2nd time in a year) recently that I had tightened per the Toyota specs on a new diff from ECGS. Even with a brand new diff, with clean surfaces, and torque properly, it was stuck. After getting it out, I didn't have a replacement plug (it was a month before I was able to get back under there and put an new plug in), so just tightened the stripped one back in with the extractor I used to get it out. I bet that extractor only put, maybe, 10 ft/lbs on it. When I pulled it a month later, it was on there tight! I think maybe 20 ft/lbs on that thing is more than enough to keep it from going anywhere.

what is this part?

This little black plastic thing broke out...important?

also seems to be leaking a bit of oil?

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That's a breather for the starter motor. What it's purpose is, I'm not 100% sure. I'm guessing it's to give some air flow so moisture doesn't build up inside. The starter motor only runs for a very short time so I doubt it's to let pressure escape that builds up from the heat that's generated but I could be wrong.

If it is the black plastic thing that attaches to the starter, I recently broke mine too when I was replacing my transmission. If I remember correctly I think there are 2 of them attached to the starter. I super glued it back on. Haven't checked to see if it stayed glued on.

I created a video to troubleshoot the rear defogger. I made it pretty thorough and included testing the defroster switch, location of the wiring harness points to test and other useful info.

I added your video to the table of contents. Thanks for the contribution.

YouTube

I hope the link works in this. I did a video on how I did my rad support. You will see me remove it and place the new one in place but no welding in the video. I am an absolute beginner with bodywork so go easy on me! Figured this may help others!

Says video unavailable.

Eddie

If anyone knows how to embed a youtube vid that might be helpful.

My channel is "TheAllSmith" if you search radiator support you can find it there.

go to your youtube video on it's page, then right click the video. Choose "copy embed code" then post that here