04-25-2016, 02:10 PM
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#16
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Westminster CO
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get some slotted / drilled rotors.
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04-25-2016, 02:15 PM
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#17
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Banned
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Palm Beach, FL
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What kind of pads did you use?
Most of the time the shimmy isn't really warped rotors, it's deposits left on the rotors by cheap pads.
You can test this by getting the brakes good and hot and see if it comes off. Take the truck up to 60 or 70MPH and do several hard stops in a row, until you start to get brake fade. Then keep driving and give the rotors time to cool down, and repeat. Sometimes that will take it off.
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04-25-2016, 02:28 PM
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#18
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Denver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swampy_swimmer
That is unusually interesting...
I actually never seen any repair or tire shop around here using torque wrench for anything, let alone wheels...
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I've been to some discount tire's that have torque limiter stick thingies when they hit the lug nuts with an impact.
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04-25-2016, 02:36 PM
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#19
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Livingston Manor, NY
Posts: 324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremyc74
What kind of pads did you use?
Most of the time the shimmy isn't really warped rotors, it's deposits left on the rotors by cheap pads.
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I run Centric Parts posi quiet ceramic pads. They shouldn't leave any deposits. They weren't cheap too.
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04-25-2016, 02:42 PM
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#20
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Banned
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Palm Beach, FL
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Banned
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swampy_swimmer
I run Centric Parts posi quiet ceramic pads. They shouldn't leave any deposits. They weren't cheap too.
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Try heating them up anyway. I have the Akibonos on mine and they required a serious amount of bedding before they worked well. Some compounds are just like that.
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04-25-2016, 02:53 PM
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#21
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I will try, I must say that I did similar stuff when I just put them on. Just to break them in so to say.
I don't have high hopes for this procedure, but if it won't help, how do I find the right shop to diagnose and do the right job on my brakes. Or should I go to dealer for this?
(I don't do this stuff on my own, don't have ability, tools, etc).
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04-25-2016, 03:15 PM
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#22
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
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Real Name: Alex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porqupine82
It's not your rotors, it's your lug nuts. Don't use an impact on them, tighten them to torque spec, and I guarantee the shimmy will stop. Did it on mine a few days ago
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That's a very bold statement; so I made it bold.
That's like guaranteeing someone's car isn't starting because it's out of gas. You know that's the reason, because when YOU ran out of gas your car wouldn't start, and when you put gas in it, it started.
For the record, OP, I personally would get the rotors turned. If they are contaminated or warped your issue will immediately go away. If it comes back in another 15k miles, I'd stop messing with the crappy prone to warping factory brakes, and do the Tundra brake upgrade.
If the issue DOESN'T go away after getting them turned, start looking elsewhere.
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Last edited by A.Wilson013; 04-25-2016 at 03:22 PM.
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04-25-2016, 03:28 PM
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#23
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porqupine82
I'm surprised that hardly anyone I talk to knows this... I thought it was car maintenance 101!
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I totally agree! I've been torquing my lugs and most my car for... well as long as I've owned one lol.
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04-25-2016, 07:36 PM
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#24
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Knoville, Tennessee
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Real Name: Justin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swampy_swimmer
I do not have that ability, but shouldn't new rotors be measured this way and not then ones that wobble?
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The purpose of rotor runout would be to determine if a issue is there. Of Course new rotors are going to be true u would hope.
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04-25-2016, 08:07 PM
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#25
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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Rotors heat up during breaking and this causes the wrap, hence, the steering wobble. It is your rotors that is bad.
Rear brakes are self adjusting ONLY if you use the park break and not otherwise.
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04-25-2016, 11:10 PM
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#26
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Denham Springs, La
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Quote:
Originally Posted by potomacduck
OK, I should have added: the supposedly self adjusting rear brakes don't work.
I've had my eyes on about 10,000 brakes jobs in my life and I assure you, almost all 4Runner rear drums are out of adjustment.
Most of the time bubba pops off the rear drum and then announces with much fanfare; "heh, they got plenty of meat on 'em." then Bubba replaced the drum with adjusting the rear brakes and then you're off.
Poor maintenance is your cause.
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Says Toyota manufacturing has no flaws and it's a maintenance issue. ..then says Toyota manufacturing is flawed because it doesn't self adjust correct.
I think the moral of the story here is you do what works. And what works is the TBU. Hey, you said you'd get flamed....nailed it.
I have two TBU 4runners and it has fixed all my braking issues so much so that my wife who doesn't know the difference between a hoopdie and a Maserati can tell the difference.
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04-26-2016, 12:44 AM
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#27
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Jose, California
Age: 58
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I had steering wheel shudder during braking when I first bought my rig. I figured the rotors were warped and didn't bother trying to turn them. I just went to Napa and bought a set of premium rotors and ceramic pads. The shudder went away and hasn't come back. I regularly carry lots of gear and sometimes pull a motorcycle trailer and the stock brakes work fine for me. I guess if I was towing a heavy trailer I'd look into the Tundra upgrade but I didn't want to bother with having to buy larger rims along with the other parts to do that upgrade.
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04-26-2016, 12:57 AM
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#28
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porqupine82
It's not your rotors, it's your lug nuts. Don't use an impact on them, tighten them to torque spec, and I guarantee the shimmy will stop. Did it on mine a few days ago
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I have used an impact on lug nuts a fair amount of time, mostly during my teens when I worked at a Chevron gas station, but for the most part over my life, I just used a lug nut wrench. Never had any issues. It wasn't until recent past that I've used a torque wrench for lug nuts.
I guess anything is possible but I'm having a hard time believing the OP's problems is related to improperly torqued lug nuts.
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04-26-2016, 01:10 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
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Real Name: Alex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbtim
I have used an impact on lug nuts a fair amount of time, mostly during my teens when I worked at a Chevron gas station, but for the most part over my life, I just used a lug nut wrench. Never had any issues. It wasn't until recent past that I've used a torque wrench for lug nuts.
I guess anything is possible but I'm having a hard time believing the OP's problems is related to improperly torqued lug nuts.
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Tim. He guaranteed it. It's the issue. 
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2006 Lexus GX 470 Sport- RR Diff Lock, Metal Tech Sliders, RCI Aluminum Skids, Front Runner Slimline II Rack, SCS F5s, 255/80R17 ST Maxx , OME BP-51s, Dirt King UCAs, Metal Tech RR Lower Links
2016 Lexus IS300 F Sport- F-Sport Air Filter RR Racing tuner
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04-26-2016, 02:20 AM
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#30
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Join Date: Oct 2014
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Real Name: Woody
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A.Wilson013
Tim. He guaranteed it. It's the issue. |
I think the Guarantee Fairy strikes again....
http://youtu.be/a5dpBpaFiMo
.
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