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Old 06-16-2016, 11:02 AM #1
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3rd Gen 4runner Preventative Maintenance

I found a thread under the Maintenance/Detailing section of the forum regarding 3rd Gen scheduled/preventative maintenance but the thread only had 6 posts so I thought it would get more views and more commentary if it was in the main 3rd Gen section.

Here's the preventative maintenance schedule I've done with my 4runner and other vehicles and I'm wondering what the rest of you do.

Engine Oil and Filter every 3000 miles unless you're using synthetic which will allow you to do it less frequently. I believe synthetic oils will allow you to change it up to as high as every 15,000 miles. Supposedly, with regular non-synthetic oil, changing your oil every 3000 miles is excessive since engine oil technology has improved a lot over the years and you can change it every 5000 - 7500 miles. For me, I'm going to stick with the old school suggested oil change frequency of 3000 miles because an oil and filter change isn't expensive and it's easy to do. And, I also believe the single best thing you can do for your engine is regular oil and filter changes.

Engine Coolant (Antifreeze) should be changed at a minimum every 30,000 miles. I just do a drain and refill of the radiator and I usually renew around 8 quarts of the 9.5 quart cooling system capacity.

Transmission Fluid should be changed at a minimum every 30,000 miles. If you do a lot of off-roading or towing, a 15,000 mile interval is recommended. Since I just do a drain and refill of the pan and not a full flush, I change my trans fluid every 10,000 miles to keep the fluid in good shape. I renew around 5 quarts of the 12 quart capacity every drain and refill.

Power Steering Fluid should be changed at a minimum every 30,000 miles. I did several rounds of the turkey baster method of drawing out fluid out of the reservoir, replacing it with new fluid, and turning the wheel back and forth to cycle the fluid. Now that my fluid is looking clean, I plan on maintaining it by drawing out the fluid in the reservoir every engine oil change and replacing it with fresh fluid. With past vehicles, I never paid much attention to the power steering fluid but I'm going to do a much better job with my 4runner.

Transfer Case Gear Oil should be changed every 30,000 miles.

Differential Gear Oil should be changed every 30,000 miles. If you do a fair amount of off-roading or hard driving like towing, changing the rear differential every 15,000 miles is recommended. If you have a 4wd 4runner and you don't use 4wd very often, you can change the front differential much less frequently. But, since it's simple and affordable to do, I just change the front differential fluid anyway when it's time to do the rear differential.

Greasing U-Joints and Slip Yokes should be greased every other oil change but giving them a little grease every oil change isn't going to hurt anything.

Air Filter should be changed at a minimum every 30,000 miles but more frequently if you're driving dusty fire roads or trails.

MAF Sensor should be cleaned every 30,000 miles but again more frequently if you've been driving a lot in dusty conditions.

Spark Plugs should be replaced around every 30,000 miles if you're using standard copper plugs. If you have the iridium or platinum plugs, you can probably replace them every 60,000 miles.

Timing Belt and Water Pump should be replaced every 100,000 miles. I've heard it's advisable to replace the tensioner and idler pulleys too while you're in there. However, I've paid (never done one myself yet) for several timing belt/water pump replacements and the mechanics never replaced the tensioner or pulleys so I'm wondering if this is overkill.

Brakes should be inspected every 30,000 miles, whenever you hear abnormal braking noise, or your brakes are pulling one way or the other.

Tires should be rotated and balanced every 5000 miles.

@infamousRNR and I have a video coming out soon that shows changing all the fluids, greasing the u-joints and slip yokes, inspecting the brakes and changing the air filter.
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Old 06-16-2016, 11:07 AM #2
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Sub'd. Can't wait for the videos.

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Old 06-16-2016, 11:10 AM #3
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Fuel filter? I think it is supposed to be replaced every 60k miles.
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Old 06-16-2016, 11:21 AM #4
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Fuel filter? I think it is supposed to be replaced every 60k miles.
Toyota actually considers this a lifetime part but most of us know better that changing it is advisable. With other vehicles, like my Subaru Outback, the suggested frequency is 30,000 miles. I've heard some people say change it every 100,000 miles. I think I might be with you on this and change it every 60,000 miles.
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Old 06-16-2016, 11:32 AM #5
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I don't agree with the engine oil change interval. Changing oil every 3000 mile (5000 km) is old school thinking, and any modern conventional oil can more than exceed that. Especially with the 5VZFE engine which is easy on oil. I am currently doing 5000 mile (8000 km) oil change intervals using synthetic oil and even that is likely too short, according to a recent oil analysis I had done. Having a good filter is equally important, but I don't see that point often mentioned. Only push the high 15,000 mile synthetic change intervals if you've done an oil analysis and are running a good synthetic filter to match.

The engine coolant interval seems about right, assuming Toyota Red Long Life coolant is being used. Coolant changes I typically not only follow the mileage recommendation, but also by time. It is recommended that Toyota Red coolant gets changed out every 2 years.

Timing belt service, you can probably replace the tensioner and idlers every other timing belt change. You can feel the bearings when you do the change if they are still good. This is important because if the bearings seize, you'll destroy your timing belt. The OEM components are actually very good quality. When I did my timing belt service at the recommended interval, all the components including the belt still looked and felt like new. In addition, it is also good practice to replace the camshaft and crankshaft seals every other timing belt change. Over time, the rubber gets hard. Especially the crankshaft seal which you will notice ages faster (color change) than the cam seals due to the extra heat down there. Also inspect the A/C idler pulley and clutch fan bracket as those also start going bad and can cause drive belt damage.

Brakes, in addition to inspecting, it's a good idea to lubricate the slider pins periodically if you have harsh winters. Those can seize and make changing pads a pain.

Other notes I keep track of on my maintenance log:
1. Good idea to change out the rear main seal, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing on every clutch swap. My OEM clutch still had usable life left at 300,000 kms.
2. Check and clean the differential breathers on every gear oil fluid change
3. Check ball joints regularly for play, especially the lowers
4. Brake and clutch fluid should be done every 50,000 kms or 3 years
5. Fuel filter should be replaced every 50,000 kms.
6. Throttle body can also be cleaned when you are cleaning the MAF sensor
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Old 06-16-2016, 11:33 AM #6
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Engine coolant every 30k? That's a little soon don't you think. Isn't Toyota long life coolant rated for 100k. Meaning when you do your t belt. I'd say 50k would be good.


I'm lookI got forward to the videos. Do you guys ever feel like when someone posts something like this. You always wonder and thing. Like crap I may have forgotten to change something or look at something. Or you feel like your truck isn't up to date ? Lol

I'd like to see a video on coolant flush. I'm running Toyota red. I don't think I've reached 40k yet on it. My engine oili do every 3000k. My transfer case and manual tranny fluids are not even 10k. My rear could use fresh one after I replaced the rear seal. Everything else is up to date. New air filter, (new as in clean and was put in not to long ago) denso spark plugs, and ngk wires.

Mostly worried about lower ball joints. !!!!
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Old 06-16-2016, 11:51 AM #7
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Mostly worried about lower ball joints. !!!!
Even though my balljoints showed no signs of play, I just went ahead and replaced them anyway for piece of mind.

Here's a link to my YouTube channel and I have a video for the balljoint replacement. It's an easy job that anyone can do.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9E...y61kJ6hdXcbjxA
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Old 06-16-2016, 11:55 AM #8
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I'll play. I'm a fan of synthetics and some longer intervals. You don't mention throttle-body cleaning, gasoline filter or PCV valve and those should definitely be on the list.

Engine Oil and Filter every 7000 miles with your choice of synthetic. I use an oversize all-synthetic premium NAPA/WIX filter # PL41516. Every 3k is major waste of time and money in my book. I do regular UOAs every two years or so with Blackstone and they say I could go longer.

Engine Coolant (Antifreeze) I do 50k but always Toyota Red since Day 1. Using the block drain I get all but the heater cores. If I have the energy I blow those out. Once I did a distilled flush just for fun. 180k on original rad. 5-speed, I can do that.

Transmission Fluid I have 5 speed. 50K Redline MT-90.

Power Steering Fluid Redline D4 Synthetic ATF every three years with the full exchange using GSGALLANT method: 3rd Gen PS System Flush Writeup (long post) - YotaTech Forums Turkey baster doesn't do it for me.

Transfer Case Gear Oil synthetic 50k.

Differential Gear Oil GL-5 synthetic 50k.

Greasing U-Joints and Slip Yokes I do spring and fall which is about 6k. I don't want to do this in winter.

Air Filter every 30 k with plugs. I eyeball now and then and if it needed it I'd do it sooner. Always WIX/Napa. Also do PCV valve from NAPA at same time. Not as beefy as OEM but definitely good for 30k and fraction of the price. It's just a ball in a tube and OEM gunks up just as fast as the cheapo.

MAF Sensor should be cleaned every 30,000 miles and I do throttle body at same time.

Spark Plugs should be replaced around every 30,000 miles. Always OEM NGKs. I do with MAF and TB.

Timing Belt and Water Pump I did my first at 120k but I did tensioner, pulleys, aux. belts, thermostat, hoses, and most important, water pump. The belts last forever. They only die at a million miles or because one of the other things failed or the WP leaked coolant on to it. Read the mega thread at YT. I did when I decided how to handle this.

Brakes "should be inspected every 30,000 miles, whenever you hear abnormal braking noise, or your brakes are pulling one way or the other." Why wouldn't you look at the disk brakes when you rotate? I do. On drums, I'll let new shoes go 50k but then step it up as they wear down. I already know I'm doing fronts again on the 4Runner this fall. My son's Hyundai's rears will get done this summer. GF's car, other son's car and reserve beater are all fine for the next year at least. Another job I won't do in winter.

Tires should be rotated every 7000 miles. I only balance when I think they need it but I'm running stock size. I never balanced my last set of Michelins and they went 70k trouble-free miles. I can't believe 14 rotations instead of ten would have made them last longer or perform better if i had done 5k.

I also did gasoline filter (OEM) at 80 and 160k and wires (NGK TE66) at 100k and will do at 200k.

So far, this has gotten me to almost 17 years and 180k trouble-free miles. Had to do one extra MAF cleaning due to a P0171, probably due to bad gas or the truck sat too long while I was travelling. Other than that, just O2 sensor codes since day 1 (both have been changed). Major front end rebuild including LBJs, ITREs, and OTREs is coming soon. Shocks and rear springs were done at 120k.
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Old 06-16-2016, 12:11 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk View Post

Spark Plugs should be replaced around every 30,000 miles. Always OEM NGKs. I do with MAF and TB.

Power Steering Fluid Redline D4 Synthetic ATF every three years with the full exchange using GSGALLANT method: 3rd Gen PS System Flush Writeup (long post) - YotaTech Forums Turkey baster doesn't do it for me.

Brakes "should be inspected every 30,000 miles, whenever you hear abnormal braking noise, or your brakes are pulling one way or the other." Why wouldn't you look at the disk brakes when you rotate? I do. On drums, I'll let new shoes go 50k but then step it up as they wear down. I already know I'm doing fronts again on the 4Runner this fall. My son's Hyundai's rears will get done this summer. GF's car, other son's car and reserve beater are all fine for the next year at least. Another job I won't do in winter.

Tires should be rotated every 7000 miles. I only balance when I think they need it. I never balanced my last set of Michelins and they went 70k trouble-free miles. I can't believe 14 rotations instead of ten would have made them last longer or perform better if i had done 5k.
Hmm, every 30,000 for plugs? I could have swore quality plugs will last 60,000 no problem. I'm pretty sure I was the first person to clean the throttle body on my rig when I bought it with 111,000 miles and it wasn't dirty at all. 30,000 mile interval to clean the throttle body may be a little excessive.

You should give the Turkey Baster method a try. It's easy, less involved than a complete flush and it's effective. Just like doing a drain and refill for the automatic trans fluid on a regular basis, it keeps the fluid in good shape.

Because I don't do the rotating since I bought my tires from America's Tires and they do it for free, I don't get a look at my brake pads on a regular basis. But, if you're doing your own rotating, checking the brake pads every rotation is good practice.

I have found the regular balancing does make a difference reducing wheel shimmy while freeway driving. It's proven to me that wheels do get out of balance over time.
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Old 06-16-2016, 12:24 PM #10
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Being a waste spark ignition if one were to put new plugs in today they would outlast the 4runner, 30,000 miles or more.

The timing belt won't break but stretches, thus the tensioner maxes out. Mine was after 15 years and 105,000 miles though the 4runner seemed to run fine. The online cost for a new OEM tensioner is less than $50. Change as much as one's wallet will allow when performing a timing belt job is my mantra.
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Old 06-16-2016, 12:42 PM #11
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My 2 cents... Might as well replace all the parts with the timing belt. It will be a tensioner, pully, seal, water pump that fails 99% of the time that causes the belt to break or jump.

3k mile oil change seems like overkill, but to each his own. I go 7-8k on syn oil changes in my 100 series, and have no problem going 5k miles with non-syn.

Seems like a well educated group here, carry on.
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Old 06-16-2016, 12:51 PM #12
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I'd like to see a video on coolant flush. I'm running Toyota red.
I've never done a complete cooling flush on any vehicle I've owned. I just do a drain and refill of the radiator every 30,000 miles. When I did it on my 4runner, I removed around 8 quarts. The complete cooling system holds around 9.5 quarts. Renewing 8 out of the 9.5 quart capacity is good enough for me.

I'm not knocking those that do complete flushes whether it's transmission fluid, power steering fluid or coolant. I just find the dilution method effective and a lot easier to do. For example, is it better to wait until 30,000 miles to do a complete tranny fluid flush, or do a drain and refill every 10,000 miles like I do? I guess the key here is renewing the fluid in some fashion on a regular basis is much better than ignoring the fluid change like many vehicle owners do and then wonder why their vehicle didn't last them very long.
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Old 06-16-2016, 12:58 PM #13
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Quote:
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Hmm, every 30,000 for plugs? I could have swore quality plugs will last 60,000 no problem. I'm pretty sure I was the first person to clean the throttle body on my rig when I bought it with 111,000 miles and it wasn't dirty at all. 30,000 mile interval to clean the throttle body may be a little excessive.

You should give the Turkey Baster method a try. It's easy, less involved than a complete flush and it's effective. Just like doing a drain and refill for the automatic trans fluid on a regular basis, it keeps the fluid in good shape.

Because I don't do the rotating since I bought my tires from America's Tires and they do it for free, I don't get a look at my brake pads on a regular basis. But, if you're doing your own rotating, checking the brake pads every rotation is good practice.

I have found the regular balancing does make a difference reducing wheel shimmy while freeway driving. It's proven to me that wheels do get out of balance over time.
I had no idea TB needed to be cleaned until truck would go into cardiac arrest at the second it went into closed loop. Problem was a nasty varnish build up on TB. This was with about 60k. Been cleaning it ever since. It usually needs it enough for me to be glad I did it. Maybe you get better gas.

If I got wheel shimmy, I would balance. I did, once. I see no need if I don't. I don't like other people messing with my wheels, even for free. No impacts ever on my lugs and always hand torque to 83 ft-lbs. I hate tire stores.

Never gonna do the turkey baster. GSGALLANT method is one and done and is really not that hard. You leave bad fluid behind you just ruin the new fluid and I use good synthetic. P.S. I hope I die before I have to drive a slushbox so don't talk to me about A/Ts. I hate those, too.

Toyota Owner's manual says 30k for plugs. Don't forget we have a waste spark ignition so they work twice as hard. Sure, they could go longer but copper plugs are cheap and it is always a nice X-ray into the health of your engine to look closely at all six plugs that you take out. That early warning of trouble alone is worth it. I am old school on plugs, as you are on oil changes, I guess.
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Old 06-16-2016, 01:09 PM #14
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Originally Posted by TheDurk View Post
If I got wheel shimmy, I would balance. I did, once. I see no need if I don't. I don't like other people messing with my wheels, even for free. No impacts ever on my lugs and always hand torque to 83 ft-lbs. I hate tire stores.

Toyota Owner's manual says 30k for plugs. Don't forget we have a waste spark ignition so they work twice as hard. Sure, they could go longer but copper plugs are cheap and it is always a nice X-ray into the health of your engine to look closely at all six plugs that you take out. That early warning of trouble alone is worth it. I am old school on plugs, as you are on oil changes, I guess.
I've had good luck with tire stores but since I now own a torque wrench, I double check them when I get home and they've been spot on so far. I torque mine to 85 ft lbs.

Thanks for info on the plugs. I reckon I'm wrong on that one. I was basing the 60,000 off how long they last on my Subaru. I'm going to update my original post.
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Old 06-16-2016, 02:04 PM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbtim View Post
I've had good luck with tire stores but since I now own a torque wrench, I double check them when I get home and they've been spot on so far. I torque mine to 85 ft lbs.

Thanks for info on the plugs. I reckon I'm wrong on that one. I was basing the 60,000 off how long they last on my Subaru. I'm going to update my original post.
A lot of people will say you can go longer on fancy plugs. As long as they are rare earth (platinum or iridium) on BOTH electrodes--because the spark is backwards on one head--they are right. I prefer the cheaper, more frequent changes but I have no quarrel with 60k or more on double rare earth plugs. Just not OEM copper. Although we keep seeing folks who find factory plugs in trucks with 150k or more.

Even if the store is using a torque stick and gets it right 'so far,' they only have to cross-thread one of 24 lugs once to cause a problem, and no one will know until you try to take it off. Happens all the time.
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